South Bay refurb

Rossja

Active member
I just bought a 14 foot South Bay and plan to fix and refurbish it. I plan to record every step of the process. I have never worked on a boat before, and have never worked with fiberglass, so this will be an adventure.
Steve Sanford's post and website has given me some good ideas.


Initial assessment:


The biggest problems are the 2 holes, 1 on each side of the hull right below the water line which appear to be caused by hitting the U bolts for trailer fender. First i removed the floor inside, which was made up of heavy boards with way too many screws into the ribs. Then I confirmed them as leaks by filling the boat with water and the 2 spots were dripping.


I got an angle grinder and bought some 60 grit flap disks. Once I started sanding the spots opened up, looks like it was patched with bondo and covered with paint.


The motor mount is also a mess, but functional. The previous owner was trying to run a 25hp motor and added angle to mount and large chunk of concrete laying inside bow to prevent bouncing (porpoising).



View attachment 20200327_160923.jpg

View attachment 20200327_163017.jpg

View attachment 20200327_163136.jpg

View attachment 20200327_163150.jpg

View attachment 20200408_194636.jpg

View attachment 20200409_152933.jpg

View attachment 20200409_154059.jpg

View attachment 20200409_154106.jpg


View attachment 20200327_163136.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ross

This is going to be a fun project to watch. On the holes you ground out I would use multiple layers of cloth wet with epoxy on both the inside and outside of the hull. Each layer will be larger in diameter and feather back past where you have cleaned out. When done it will be strong and you can fair the new glass in making it hard to tell there was a repair.

Eric
 
I'm working nightshifts at the power plant this week, but did more evaluation and planning today.
The seam between top and bottom on the nose has some minor damage covering about 6 inches. It's doesn't look like gouges or cracks go through (the white bubbles in picture is Raid, there were ants living in the gouge). I plan to fill with some glass/resin mix leftover from hole patching. Also, I found this edge protection on amazon. I'm guessing I just need to drill out rivets, remove old rubber edging and replace, putting rivets back though same holes. And looking at the holes in hull I need to sand farther out.
View attachment 20200409_164428.jpg
View attachment Screenshot_20200411-031649_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
Rossja, I have a Southbay boat also and did a rehab job. Check out Steve's rehab job. I like his motor board and a lot of his ideas to improve the boat. I would check the boat for flotation foam, mine was a real early boat with no foam.
Time to rehab the trailer, lites etc while the boat is off. I put on Cabela guide ons so I can dunk the trailer and the lights are never in the water. The dipped galvanized one's have lasted for 20 years and are on the new trailer, worth the extra money.
As said in previous posts, do 2-3 layers of glass inside and out. Sand off paint and grime really well. Go on u tube if you have any questions, they have great posts. I used Lou's FME and it went great, also used pettit duck boat paint and also good. I put a large wood, homemade rail on the hatch cover. Easy to handle can be locked.
Take your time and enjoy it. Check out Steve's posts, a ton of ideas. I'm going to recess my my motor mount as Steve did. strong and safe. Gonna put in the eye bolt also.
 
Hey Capt, I printed both Steve's rehab job out at work, gives me almost a manual. Just waiting on weather to warm up and for some time off work to begin the glass work. Trailer is on the list, new tires too.
 
Rossja, just a suggestion I got from a tire shop. I put tubes in my trailer tires. If you break the bead on a flat, you're shot. With a tube you may be able to get to a shop or home. I also keep a 12v pump for my golf cart or trailer.
 
Good morning, Ross~


Great post! Looks like you're on the right track with your hull repair.


It's great that you have your boat on a dolly that can be moved in and out of your shop as needed. And, I am glad my earlier posts have been helpful.


All the best,


SJS

 
So, I just discovered the value of the search function on this site! Stuck working shifts, essential person during pandemic and holiday weekend, the printer here is putting out tons of pages, basically printing almost every thread related to South Bay boats and putting into a binder according to topic.
 
Rossja said:
So, I just discovered the value of the search function on this site! Stuck working shifts, essential person during pandemic and holiday weekend, the printer here is putting out tons of pages, basically printing almost every thread related to South Bay boats and putting into a binder according to topic.

That discovery is one of the things that makes our forum great. The archives are full of treasures.
 

There are many discussions, about lotta things, and issues on this site.

But more than anything -

duckboats.net is a very good educational source.



VP
 
Wow, such avoidable damage and cement in the bow?
I love my SBDB and they are pretty easy to work on. I'm 6'3"230lbs and I've gotten up in there to replace ribs and transom work. Of all the fine suggestions that Steve has made for his rehabs, I think the one that really is a game changer is painting the inside of the cockpit gray and making a brace for the gas can. I will add that my addition of the "puck lights" I call them, the ones you stick to something and press them and they light up; have been a HUGE help for me. They are cheap, last a long time and shed a lot of light up under the cockpit. It's a great boat. Are you on Long Island?
 
I'm down in South Jersey where the Delaware Bay meets the river. I mostly hunt in Salem County
 
Updates:

I used fiberglass filler from inside with outside taped off to fill the holes in hull, then again from outside.
Sanded it all down, cleaned.
Then I did my first ever fiberglass job. Mixed up the resin and started applying with fiberglass mat. It went well on the inside, not too pretty on the outside (gravity was working against me, next time ill flip boat over). It was warm enough in the garage when I started, but fumes started getting me so I opened the door which caused it to get too cold. Employing a heat gun I was able to get everything to cure. This morning everything is hard as rock. Got some serious sanding to do next. Also I will even the patches with fiberglass filler compound and sand so hull is flush.

View attachment 20200414_124626.jpg
View attachment 20200414_124638.jpg
View attachment 20200414_152400.jpg
View attachment 20200414_152406.jpg
 
Good morning, Jason~


Congratulations on the progress!


A few thoughts:


1) When using polyester resin (which includes styrene), I always work outside. I do not want to breathe the gases from a health perspective AND I don't want that smell in my shop. It'll linger a long time.


2) When gravity fights, it's helpful to back up the area with cardboard or thin plywood - held in place with duct tape or hot glue. Cover the stiffener with wax paper first so the resin does not stick. This approach also minimizes grinding.


3) FYI: For larger jobs, a thin fabric called Peel-Ply (which I believe is Rayon?) can be used to give a smooth finish during the cure. It is spread over the wet mixture and faired with a squeegee. Excess resin can ooze through - but comes off after the cure when the fabric is peeled off. I've done the same thing with just polyethylene sheet plastic - but with cruder results.


4) As you've already discovered, the cure can be sped up with heat - either artificial or natural. I have covered whole boats with clear plastic - with the vessel leaned against the south wall of my shop - to create a greenhouse to let the sun provide the warmth.



All the best,


SJS

 
Jason~

Here are the measurements for the floorboards I have up in the loft. The maximum length is 89 inches - otherwise they cannot get into the cockpit. These boards are intended to begin just beneath the aft cockpit coaming and extend forward. On some South Bays, I have begun the floorboards immediately ahead of the transom - but that would require a different pattern.

The half-breadths are approximate - and follow the curve of the hull. Use a "fair batten" - long piece of quarter-round molding is a good choice - to draw a nice fair line to connect (more or less) the measurements before cutting to the line. A circular saw is a good way to cut long gentle curves like this. And, stack and clamp together the port and starboard pieces so you can cut them both at the same time. I usually put the good sides (A) out and the lesser sides (C) in.

View attachment South Bay Floorboards - messurements SJS.JPG

I round the outside corners - in this case using a yogurt container to give me a nice radius. I use a sabre saw for these cuts. All upper edges are eased with a 3/16-inch round-over bit in my router.

View attachment SB Floorboards - rounding outside corners.JPG

I used a standard spray can to give me the radius for the "pumping port" - where you can foot a manual bilge pump if you take on too much water.

View attachment SB Floorboards - rounding Pumping Port.JPG

The lumber should be 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood - either AC or marine (better if you can get it). Seal with 2 coats of epoxy. I like to put anti-skid in the second coat - prior to painting.

NOTE: I locate the turn-buttons over the ribs that are nearest the forward and aft coamings, about 8 inches away from the centerline.

Finally, I usually fasten intermediate "ribs" to the underside of each floorboard, midway between any factory ribs. In most South Bays, I run the same 3/4-inch stock fore and aft on the underside of the center;line, on just the port floorboard.

All the best,

SJS

 
Last edited:
Did some work on the lip around the bow, resin and glass, but still needs sanding. Figured out I'm going to save all sanding until I've done a much as possible. The stern is causing me a headache, starting to wonder if the juice is worth the squeeze redoing the motor mount, tearing out the bulkhead and replacing the foam in the tails...

View attachment 20200415_141653.jpg
View attachment 20200416_164132.jpg
View attachment 20200415_141737.jpg
View attachment 20200415_141726.jpg



Also, starting to think about lighting... I may just do bases with lights on insert rods. that way I plug in when launching and night riding, pull down at spot. This method would also keep lights above camo grass.

View attachment Screenshot_20200416-182857_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
My nav lights are set up the same way on my broadbill. Just make sure camo doesn?t block the sockets. Otherwise I think it works well.
 
Back
Top