Another South Bay restoration - from a bare hull.

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Good morning, All~


I'm not certain how many South Bay Duckboats I have restored and customized in recent years. I have one in the shop right now - and just delivered this one last weekend.


Portrait 2.JPG



I first saw it half-full of water and with no cockpit cover. All the wooden parts were either gone or rotted to the punky stage.



DS 28 - Cullen South Bay at PBB.JPG



The vessel itself was sound - and had been built in 1989. The flap boards and mounting blocks were destined for the stove....



Flap Board - port.JPG



The first job was installing a transom drain - which South Bays never had, in my experience - and a new motorboard.


Transom Drain 06 - new tube bedded and installed.JPG



I also molded a new "XL" spray shield - which I developed and made a mold for.


Spray Shield in layup.JPG



The spray shield gets 2 laminated (Mahogany + epoxy) thatch rails.


Cullen SB - Motor Board.JPG



You can also see a new set of floorboards on the left. I am making another set for the current South Bay. I cut the shape with a skilsaw - because the long fair curve is gentle enough. I get a much smoother cut than I would with a sabre saw or band saw.


Floorboards - cutting with skilsaw.JPG



Although I have put scuppers in all of the floorboards I have made or restored, I always cut the hole with a sabre saw. To get a truer circle, I made this jig so I could use a hole saw (3.5"). I made the jig from 3 layers of the same 1/2-inch plywood as the floorboards.



Floorboards - boring scupper with jig A.jpg



The floorboards get sealed with epoxy - 2 coats on the top before painting.


Floorboards - epoxy sealed.JPG



Here is the scupper formed by the paired semi-circles - to allow for a bilge pump should seas - or rain/snow - come aboard.


Floorboards - scupper faired and mated.JPG



More to follow.


SJS
 
Here are some more tasks....


The bottom had just a few nicks and gouges. First step was a washing with TSP.



Bottom 04 - bottom washed TSP.JPG



All problems were filled and faired. rivet at bow got sanded flush.



Bottom 07 - rivet and divot on bow.JPG



A waterline was drawn and masked.


Bottom 06 - waterline marked with beam compass.JPG



The bottom itself did not need new paint - but the topsides did.


Bottom 11 - masking complete.JPG



It got 2 coats of Parker Marsh Grass - brushed on.


BOTTOM 12 - Parker Marsh Grass - 2 coats.JPG



Here she is beneath the spoon bow.


Bottom 15 - painted forward.JPG



And the after end.....



Bottom 13 - paint at stern.JPG



The bow now safe for gloves - or bare hands.


Bottom 14 - rivet and divot smoothed.JPG



More to come....


SJS
 
The hulls on South Bays are known for oil-canning - they were a bit underframed. Because the original floorboards were screwed in place, the frames were perforated and weakened.


1 - Locating intermediate frames and masking reinforcements.JPG

Note the cracks and holes in the existing frames.

2 - Cracks and fastener perforations in existing frames.JPG


So, I reinforced the existing frames - with 1708 biaxial with mat set in epoxy. I added a fillet of thickened epoxy next to each frame so the 'glass would lay over gentle curves.


3 - 1708 reinforcement of existing frames.JPG



I added 2 intermediate frames - using PVC lumber shaped to a trapezoidal cross-section. I used the paint cans for dead weight - because I do not have the supply of lead billets every boatshop should have for such purposes. I tapee all edges to "work clean" so after-cure grinding was minimized.



4 - New PVC frames epoxied in place.JPG



All cured, faired and ready for paint.



5 - All frames reinforced and cured.JPG



The new floorboards are shaped to follow the lines of the chines - and are coated with 2 sealing coats of straight epoxy.


Cullen SB - Florrboards - sealed.JPG



The slots key into turn buttons - so the boards can be held in place and removed without tools. The surface is treated to fine sand for anti-skid.



Masking for anti-skid.jpg



Ready for second coat of Parker's Marsh Grass.


Slot for turnbutton.jpg



Next a brief detour....


SJS

 
The original cockpit cover succumbed to a "highway mishap"....


So, I molded a new one. Here it is fresh out of the mold and trimmed.



Cover - off the mold.jpg



After priming, the interior gets a coat of gloss grey - Pettit Seattle Grey.


Cover - gloss interior paint.JPG



I am now using webbing - instead of wood - for handles.


Cover - webbing handle.JPG



The spray shield has its thatch rails fastened with brass machine screws.



Cullen SB - Spray Shield and thatch rails.JPG



I use a disc sander to grind them smooth inside.


Spray Shield - grinding brass fasteners.JPG



The lip is set in 3M 5200 and fastened with flathead self-tappers through finishing washers.


Spray Shield - fastening and sealing to foredeck.JPG



Next job is thatch rails - a total of 6 on the decks. The 6-inch cleats on both bow and stern reinforced below to allow lifting the entire vessel with them. The eye on this aft rail is for a safety chain to the outboard.



Thatch Rails - afterdeck.JPG



The lateral rails are fastened with s/s flathead screws and 3M 5200.


Thatch Rails - all from astern.JPG



Next - flap boards.


SJS




 
The mounting blocks for the flap boards require careful design and installation. They are designed top stand upright so the bottoms - and the corresponding backer boards - are beveled on the table saw. They are Mahogany sealed in epoxy.



Blocks, backers and fasteners.JPG



They are held by a single s/s machine screw AND 3M 5200 (which does most of the work once cured. They need to be carefully aligned with a straightedge during installation so the hinges will not bind.



Aligning blocks.JPG



The half-inch plywood boards are fastened with brass machine screws - which are ground smooth.


Screws and nuts ground smooth 2.JPG



I prefer to replace hinge pins with brass rod -bent into a hairpin shape for easy removal - but these 1/4-inch pins did not lend themselves to my manipulations. So - at least for the meantime - I applied a marine grease to these steel pins. At least the hinges themselves are solid brass.


Upper hinge attached.JPG



This little bumper protects the coaming and cockpit cover from chafe.



Bumper 2.JPG



The open boards lay flat - level with the water's surface - so stool get be set on them when rigging.


Flap Boards down - with decoys.JPG



The boards can be closed at 2 different angles. Here they are in the lower position - with no chocking.


Portrait 3.JPG



Here they are more upright - note the PVC chock secured to the coaming.


Portrait 5 - flap boards upright.JPG



The chocks hang at-the-ready when not in use.


Shelf and Chock.JPG



More to come!


SJS
 
I made a pair of shelves - each with shell holders on its outer lip.

Shelf 1.JPG

A folding and padded seat was also needed.


Seat 1.JPG



It stays upright via these "knees" on the back.


Seat 2 - aft view.JPG



It is not attached to the floorboards -



Seat 3 - in place.JPG



- and can be folded and moved out of the way as needed.


Seat 4 - folded.JPG



Another added feature was a gun rest - just 2 PVC chocks and a length of closet pole. Without one, another South Bay owner conceded that he rested his barrel on his boots whilst awaiting fowl......



Gun Rest 1.JPG



A short shock cord is stored along the flap board when not needed.



Bungee in stored position.JPG



It secures the flaps over the cockpit cover - when trailering or stored.


Bungee holding flap boards for travel.JPG



Ready for the road!


Portrait 7 - ready to roll.JPG



All the best,


SJS
 
Steve,

Amazing restoration! To clarify, are you coating the grass rails with epoxy prior to painting?
 
David~


Thanks for the kind words!


I used to seal thatch rails with epoxy - but now use Spar Varnish instead. Epoxy demands just too much prep before painting - whereas the varnish is a long-proven sealer beneath oil paints. With either product, though, I first use a scraper to remove the runs et cetera before sanding. I wipe down with alcohol to remove the dust before painting.


Make sense?


SJS


 
Beautiful work. I build my own layout boats, but this is next level. Oh that I had your skills, esp with glass........
 
Steve

You make the process seem so attractive and inviting I regret not bidding on that South Bay in Knoxville a couple weeks ago. By the way, it sold for $470, and the Van Duyne BBSB went for a mere $230.

It is always a treat to see your restorations and have no doubt they inspire duck hunters everywhere with their own boat projects. Thank you for sharing.

Eric
 
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