decoy rack recommendations?

Jamus

Member
Hi All--
Banging my head against a wall trying to get a good connection on the decoy rack to the boat and I'm looking for recommendations, or pictures if you have any, of your setup.

My main issue is getting a good solid attachment to the boat from the stern to the oarlock block. As of now, the decoy rack is relieved on the bow end to butt join to the oarlock, but does not overlap it. I have been trying to find some sort of way to create a very solid, yet removable attachment between the oarlock block and the bow end of the decoy rack, but have wiffed on a number of different concepts. the junction of the rack to the oarlock block is a high traffic area (it's where I get in and out of the boat) so I'm looking for something that can take a beating.

Any thoughts?

thanks
Jamus
 
Good morning, Jamus~

Any chance you can post a picture or two?

Sounds like you have a Barnegat Bay Sneakbox with the traditional stool rack on the stern. Correct? If so, most Sneakboxes used a combination of permanent chocks on the decks + heavy hooks & eyes. This photo (fromTuckerton last September) shows how the side-piece is secured to the stern-piece.


SB%2008_zpsg3uekhfh.jpg


Here is another boat - a 1950s-vintage Van Sant Sneakbox:


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Up forward - just aft of the oarlock stanchion - this horn fits through a square hole in the side-piece. It also relies on hook-and-eye to secure in place.


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This boat uses angle brackets to permanently fasten the stool rack.

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Hope this helps!

SJS


 
Steve, Can't remember what held the stern rack to the boat on the Southbay. Got any pics? When the back gets better I want to add a rack to my boat. With my stout figure I need more storage if I travel [more decoys].
 
Hi Steve--
Thanks for the response and I have been thinking about adding horns. However after my last attempt I figured it might be prudent to back up and actually form a plan. Here are some pics of what's on the boat.

This shows how the decoy rack butts flush to the oarlock post. The buttons are for the canvas, which is a bimini style and sweeps back to the button on the decoy rack and terminates there. As you can imagine, that means only entrance and exit from boat when dodger is up is out through the 18" gap between the end of the canvas and over the decoy rack. It takes a beating.
IMG_0001_zpsecepc7xa.jpg


Here is a pic of inside of the decoy rack. I installed a hook and eye to start, but it quickly pulled out of the oarlock once the season was under way and the boat was being used in anger.


IMG_0002_zpsynbaitdb.jpg




The stern of the rack is solid. The rack is one piece, with double brass hinges and a system set up by the builder whereby it "levers" between the horn and the post on the motor mount. This keeps the stern components quite secure and easily removable
IMG_0003_zpsipswjzf9.jpg


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So the weak part of the system is the long boards running fore and aft and in particular how they affix to the oarlock block. I had thought a hatch fastener would have been part of the answer but the angles of mounting and pull have not yet jived in a way that works well (and you can see a failed attempt to shim via the deck mounted block). Too bad; I liked the hardware.
IMG_0005_zpsxfcyjmz0.jpg


If you see anything or have any thoughts, I'm all ears.

Thanks
Jamus
 
Jamus~

Those photos surely help! I like the way you are hinged at the stern - and the lynch pins are a great idea.

I would be tempted to screw (bolt, actually) a pair of 4-inch long chocks on either side of each side-piece about 8 inches aft of your oarlock stanchions - so that the side-piece would sit in a slot between the chocks. That way, the chocks take all the strains and the hook-and-eye just keeps the sides down on the deck.

SJS
 
Thanks Steve and that's an excellent recommendation. what are your thoughts about running a pin (wooden) at right angles through the chalks and sideboards, effectively pinning the decoy rack in place? That way one could remove the hook and eye completely.

thanks again for the idea.
Jamus
 
Good morning, Jamus~

Pinning makes good sense. I would be tempted to use a piece of bronze rod instead of wood - both for strength and to avoid swelling. I would bend it into an L shape to provide a handle. And, I would bore a small hole through the handle so a light piece of line could serve as a keeper.

The holes through the chocks could be snug - the same diameter as the rod - but I would bore the hole through the side-piece a bit over-size - to make lining everything up easier.

All the best

SJS

 
Hi Steve
Just wanted to say thanks. I installed one side tonight and it worked like a champ. I'll post pics of the final product once I finish both sides. Thanks again
 
as promised, here is the finished product. It's rock solid and a huge improvement over the prior situation
IMG_0014_zps0ne5y0ta_1.jpg

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