Great South Bay Scooter Rehab - SEA TRIALS AT LAST !

The decks were bedded with a thickened epoxy (resin + Cabosil + milled fibers) on both the purlins and the plywood "lips" that I had glued on earlier. Wax paper was used to catch the inevitable drips.



View attachment D 04 Deck fillers installed.JPG



Bronze boat nails were used to fasten the cockpit edge to the purlins.


View attachment D 06A Boat nail.JPG



Temporary fasteners were used on the outboard edge of the plywood. After pre-drilling, #10 x 1" s/s panheads were used to clamp the plywood down. This photo actually shows one being removed after the cure. I have used this same batch of screws for this purpose on several boats.


View attachment D 10 Removing panheads.jpg



There was plenty of squeeze out along the seam - but wiped flush or even a bit shy before curing - to minimize later sanding.



View attachment D 06 H screws and boat nails.JPG



A reassuring check of level.....dead on a both ends of the new cockpit.



View attachment D 11 Level across purlins.JPG



Now the Big Challenge - trying to get that big twist out of the stern....


I screwed a batch of clamping blocks to the fantail so I could get good square clamping pressure. Cellophane tape on the bottom of each block prevents inadvertent gluing.



I also bored numerous 3/8" holes between each block - so I could inject straight epoxy in the wood in this area. (This photo was taken after the epoxy had cured...)


View attachment D 07A - Clamping blocks.JPG



You can just make out the holes. I used a syringe to squirt a generous amount of epoxy into each.


View attachment D 08 Fantail fill holes.JPG



Clamped and curing....


View attachment D 07 Fantail epoxied and clamped.JPG



Before clamping, I forced as much thickened epoxy (as above) into any and all crevices and interstices....


View attachment D 09 Fantail wetr fillers.JPG



The Scooter is now "cage-free" ! Looking once again like a gunning vessel.


View attachment D 12 Cage removed.JPG



....next.....


SJS





 
Last edited:
Now a bit more progress on the floorboards.



The edges were rounded over with a router. The cleat - for keeping the back rest in place - was epoxied and screwed in place.


This photo does not show that the port and starboard edges of the cleat are beveled at about 30 degrees - to avoid an uncomfortable hard spot or tripping hazard.


View attachment FB 10 Edges rounded over.JPG

The non-skid area on the central floorboard was marked and masked - with the aid of my trusty circle template....



View attachment FB 11 Nonskid area delineated.JPG


Ready for paint. Before masking, the 2 coats of epoxy were wiped of amine blush, lightly sanded, and wiped with acetone.



View attachment FB 12 non-skid ready for paint.JPG



The necessary gear.


View attachment FB Non-skid supplies.JPG



Primed and in place for a test fit. This photo shows the beveled ends of the backrest cleat.



View attachment FB 09 Test fit - primed.JPG



Another project was necessitated by my inability to live with the hollow is the misshapen foredeck. I re-purposed the cockpit stretcher as a form for 2 new deck reinforcements.



View attachment D 02A Foredeck stiffener build.JPG



I clamped up a couple of ribs/backer boards for the first 2 bays on the foredeck. The forward of the two will support a cleat - and so this needs to distribute force over several deck planks.


View attachment D 02 Foredeck stiffener A.JPG



Here is the offending hollow. In my worst nightmares, it would puddle rainwater and allow breeding for mosquitoes - which would no doubt carry West Niles Virus throughout the land.....



View attachment D 03 Foredeck stiffener test.JPG



One last look at that sweet shape! Note that the fantail has been given an initial sanding/grinding/fairing. More filler and process to come.....



I made up the wooden fairlead - for use at bow and/or stern - but will probably use brass hardware instead.


View attachment D 14 Looking like a gunnung boat.JPG



All the best,


SJS

View attachment D 03 Foredeck stiffener test.JPG
 
Looks SO good Steve, amazing. I'm loving the lines of the new cockpit and how true and "square" everything looks (albeit an oval....)
Can't thank you enough. I'm already going through decoys.
 
Mc~


Always good to hear from a satisfied customer!


BTW: I have plenty of ready-to-hunt Herter's Model 72 Broadie-Beaks I would be happy to lend you. They do miss that salty water.



In the meantime, be thinking "shades of grey".... I recall you want a traditional, single-color vessel (i.e., no tiger stripes or such). Do you lean toward Battleship Grey (think Great South Bay garveys) or a Whiter Shade of Pale a la Schuyler Watts old Dodge & Krowl ?

View attachment W1 -Watts with Dodge and Krowl scooter.jpg


As you know, gunners tend to have very firm opinions in such matters....

All the best,

SJS


 
Last edited:
Schuyler.......what a guy.
I definitely don't want the very light, near white shade and the dark gray like on my Sunfish Resto I feel is too dark. I'll leave it as "dealers choice" but a medium tone is what I'd generally prefer. Kinda close to the bilge color you already painted the interior.
 
Good morning, Mc~


I will mail you some samples for your deliberations. Applying the topcoat paint is the very last task - so we have plenty of time.


All the best,


SJS



 
Good morning, Paul et al~


The topside grey samples will go in the mail later today.


After the cage came off the stern and gave me access, I filled and clamped another section on the starboard side.


View attachment D 15 - Clamping post cage.JPG



I then fabricated the spray shield/cowling to keep waves and wind out of the cockpit - and to conceal the gunner's swiveling head....


Here is the stock spray shield from a South Bay Duckboat.



View attachment SS 01 A - Stock SBD spray shield.JPG



I wanted one about as tall but wider - to keep errant seas out of the cockpit. So, I made a half-pattern on card stock.


View attachment SS 01 Cowling pattern.JPG



Here is my process for molding the cowling:


1. Using the pattern, I marked the 'glass and coremat with a felt marker before cutting all 3 layers to their exact dimensions. Note that, once saturated with resin, the layup will exceed the final dimensions - so trimming once fully cured is part of the process.



2. I had used this jig previously, so 2 more coats of Part-All mold release wax were sufficient to keep the resin from sticking. I masked the out-of-bounds portion of the jig with masking tape and poly plastic.


3. I did the layup in the shade - to prevent premature curing. I first laid the biaxial (with mat) good side down, mat side up, then saturated it with plenty of resin. I used a chip (throwaway bristle) brush to dab the resin to ensure full saturation.

4. Then I laid the core mat onto the wet resin - making sure there were no wrinkles. I poured on more resin and dabbed with the brush as before.

5. Next, I laid the top layer of biaxial (mat side down) onto the wet resin. I dabbed with the brush and rolled with a ribbed 'glass roller to ensure that all 3 layers were saturated. I brushed on only as much more resin as was needed to be sure of full saturation. The best laminations have only as much resin as needed - no more.

All this took about 10 minutes. I worked in the shade - but then moved the whole jig out into the sun.



View attachment SS 03 Curing in sun.jpg



I let it cure on the jig for 2 sunny days and just popped it off yesterday morning. I trimmed all the edges on my bandsaw - then sanded them with 80-grit paper.



Here it is placed on the vessel.


View attachment SS 05 Test Fit 2.JPG



That lumpy deck will require a bit of "3/8s putty" when fastening......



View attachment SS 04 Test fit.JPG



It has been scuff sanded thoroughly and I will wash the whole thing with acetone before priming and painting. I have drilled the holes for fastening to the deck - but still need to add a small chock to support the ridge pole for a canvas cockpit cover.


...next.....



I will be making the coamings later today - which explains (?) this photo....


(I will use the bulkhead patterns to make templates for the fore and aft coamings.)



View attachment C 11 Coaming patterns.JPG



I will be bringing a couple of pieces of White Ash to a friend for planing later today.


View attachment C 12 Ash in Granary.JPG



These 2 boards have been sawn so the sides are square and parallel - and to remove the bark which held plenty of blade-dulling dirt. The thinner piece will become coamings, the thicker will become rubrails.



View attachment C 13 on rack.JPG



All the best,


SJS

 
Steve

If you were close enough I'd say bring that wood to my shop for planing. You are really bringing the full potential out of this boat and I'm enjoying the show.

Eric
 
Good morning, Eric~


I drive about 10 miles nowadays for a friend's PowerMatic - which I believe is a 15-inch machine. My former neighbor Kirk has a 26-inch, 19th century planer - but it's in the Bay State now.....


Steady progress on many fronts in the past couple of days.


There were a couple of unsightly bulges up forward along the port chine. I restored them to a sweet fair curve with electric plane and belt sander. They revealed the sites of earlier repairs.



View attachment H 01 - Lump fwd port.JPG



Then the thickened epoxy, clamping blocks and clamps overnight....


View attachment H 02 Clamping lump repair.JPG



I jacked the new deck stiffener into place - with a generous bedding of the same thickened epoxy. 3M 5200 might have done a better job here - but I did not want to wait the several days for a full cure.


View attachment H 03 Deck reinforcement.JPG



The Ash that was planed to 5/8-inch became the coamings. The fore and aft coamings get fitted first.


View attachment H 04 Aft coaming - out rough.JPG



I made sure the fairlead got bored right through a knot. The stern anchor will be secured to this 5-inch cleat.



View attachment H 05 Aft coaming - in and finished.JPG



The fairlead is 5/8-inch diameter - but 3/8-inch line would be my recommendation for the stern anchor (usually a light mushroom).


View attachment H 06 Aft coaming with fairlead.JPG



The forward coaming supports the back (neck( rest).


View attachment H 07 Fwd coaming with neck rest.JPG



The 3-inch coamings stick up about 1.75 inches above the decks.


View attachment H 08 Fwd coaming out.JPG



The belt sander with a 36-grit belt did a nice job of scuffing the old 'glass and knocking off some of the high spots. I run it at an angle to the planking seams.


View attachment H 09 Belt sander 36 grit.JPG



These Black Locust turn-buttons got their first coat (of 3) of Tung Oil. They will keep the central floorboard in place.


View attachment H 10 Locust turnbuttons.JPG



...continued....


SJS





 
As long as I was working with the Ash - and had fine weather - I decided to shape the 2 rubrails.


I screwed a pair of blocks onto my tall horses to hold the lumber vertical.


View attachment H 14 Rubrail set up.JPG



I planed what will become the outside face with my electric planer. As it happens, the planer - which has served me very well for at least 10 years - was showing a bit too much wear on the blades. Fiberglass is tough even on tungsten carbide....


Off to the interwebs to order a new pair. Right after placing the order, though, I discovered that the existing blades are reversible! So, I reversed them in just a few minutes and got to work. "Like buttah" as they say....a real pleasure to use the fresh blades.


View attachment H 15 Planing rubrail stock.JPG



Then I clamped the board flat and rounded both edges with a 1/2-inch bit in the router.


View attachment H 16 Rounding with router.JPG



I ripped the first rubrail on the table saw set at a full 1 inch. After finding it a bit too stiff, I re-ripped it (now with the finger board on my saw) down to 7/8. Now both are just limber enough to take the curve of the chine without complaint.


(Note - This photo makes the profile look a bit asymmetrical. The apparent misshape is the result of it being the very end of the stock. I will shape the finished ends a bit further from these raw ends once I measure the final length needed.)


View attachment H 17 Rubrail section.jpg



I have decided to remove this section of original 'glass. It is very tough and no doubt provides sound watertightness - but it is not adhered to the deck. I will excise it, fill and fair the planking, then re-cover with new 'glass set in epoxy. Then I will 'glass all of the other areas that need attention before flipping the hull.



View attachment H 18 Glass unbound.JPG



All the best,


SJS




















View attachment H 17 Rubrail section.jpg
 
Forgot...one more little task.




This nice piece of ironwork on the bow I'm sure is original to the boat.



View attachment H 12 Bow piece bronze screws.JPG




However, although soundly fastened, it is not well sealed. Note the bedding-free gap twixt the hardware and hull.



View attachment H 11 Bow piece - dry gap.jpg



Each screw hole could invite water - either to cause rot or sink the vessel!


So, I very painstakingly backed or prised out each bronze screw - with whatever worked and with no mishaps to report.



View attachment H 13 Bow piece off and intact.JPG





The screw holes will be saturated with injected epoxy then filled with a sturdy filler. Once all of the work is done on the top and bottom of the hull, it will be re-fastened with new screws and well bedded in some Space Age compound.


All the best,


SJS





 
Last edited:
Good morning, Mc~


That "bow piece" is unique in my experience - but so is a round-nosed Scooter. Every other Great South Bay Scooter I have seen comes to a point at the bow. Even this "whaleback" style vessel - designed as an open bay "layout" boat (as opposed to many other Scooters that were built to travel over ice, sail, and often hide in saltmarsh) - has a pointed snout.


BTW: Whalebacks typically had 1) lots of crown in the decks, 2) feather-edge sides right down near the waterline, and 3) no ice runners. They were rowed or towed to the gunning locations.



View attachment Bow Piece 01.jpg



Bow hardware on Scooters served a number of purposes. It had to 1) secure the anchor rode or painter, 2) serve as a fairlead for the bow line if anchored when gunning,and 3) secure the forestay for a sailing rig.


Before (pre-WW II) most duckboats were 'glassed over, many Scooter had a hole bored horizontally through the bow. I cannot find a photo of that style. Nevertheless, most Scooters had a large White Oak framing member that tied together the chines or sides, the hull planking and the deck planking. I've never known what to call it as it hardly resembles a conventional stem. Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes have a large curved (in the horizontal plane) framing member up forward called a harpin/harping.


View attachment Guthorn page 154 re harping.jpg





In any event, this Whaleback uses an eyebolt for bow hardware - mounted on the top deck, no doubt into the oak framing.




View attachment Bow Piece 02.jpg



Many Scooters use the ring-and-eye - again mounted on the deck where it is most useful to secure a bow painter.



View attachment Bow Piece 03.jpg



I cannot quite make out the shape of this hardware - but it is also mounted atop the foredeck.



View attachment Bow Piece 04.jpg



The hardware on your vessel is certainly much more massive and elaborate than the others. It seems to do a good job of distributing the pulling forces both around the nose and beneath it. I think the latter is important in that this Scooter was clearly meant to be towed (although some Scooters were transported on the decks of large "mother ships") and so it was important that it not dive when pulled through the seas. There is almost no rocker in this hull and I am guessing the bow is essentially at the water level when laying in the bay.



I presume it was hand-forged in a local boatyard and then hot-dip galvanized - which was probably also locally available back when this Scooter was built.



View attachment H 13 Bow piece off and intact.JPG



I fabricated - from bronze rod - something with similar features for my Scooter (the TED SANFORD).


View attachment sm 7 - Ready for installation.jpg



Yours will be bedded like this when re-installed.



View attachment sm 10 - Caulk is smoothed around fairlead..jpg





It'll be awhile before it goes back on the boat. In the meantime, I'm off to the shop for some sanding and 'glassing.


All the best,


SJS

 
Good morning, All~


Starting to looking like a duckboat now....


I first fastened this other foredeck reinforcement - which will also backup the foredeck cleat.


View attachment H 20 - foredeck reinforcement.JPG



I slathered it with thickened epoxy and jacked it up into place as with the first reinforcement.


View attachment H 21 Foredeck cleat reinforcement.JPG



I next decided to excise a large patch of "skin" on the port deck. It was 2 layers of 'glass and sound - but no longer attached to the decking. I probably could have left it with no loss of watertighness - but it just didn't seem "right" to do so.


View attachment H 22a Loose skin removed on port deck.JPG



The 80-year-old White Cedar got sealed with straight epoxy - then I filled the seams and faired to the existing 'glass with epoxy + fairing compound. I filled, sanded and faired 2 or 3 times before it was ready for new 'glass. There are plenty of bumps and hollows and "unfairnesses" over this deck - but overall it now looks and will be sound and seaworthy.


View attachment H 23 Loose skin area filled and faired.JPG



I am experimenting with Dynel on the fantail. I am hoping it will be a bit tougher than conventional 'glass cloth in this high-wear area.


View attachment H 24 Dynel on fantail.JPG



All the hardware - brass, stainless steel, nylon - got primed with Rustoleum Primer. I like to let such paint harden up for a day or two before I need to handle it during installation.



View attachment H 25 Primed hardware.JPG



What's wrong with this picture?


This is the forward coaming - primed and drying in the late-Summer sun.....


View attachment H 26 Forward coaming branded and primed.JPG



Although the nose will get its original hardware re-installed (after the bottom has been restored), I think a fairlead will be handy. This heavy brass piece came off my Dad's Scooter. I have an inkling that he may have fabricated it - one of those questions I never thought to ask....


In any event, I located and pre-drilled all deck hardware before final 'glassing.


View attachment H 27 Stern fairlead pre-drilled.JPG



The location of the spray shield is simply marked - but the cleat is pre-drilled over the new underdeck reinforcement/backer.


View attachment H 28 Cleat and spray shield located.JPG



I opted for this s/s pad eye instead of the Locust one I had fashioned earlier. I figured a dock line could be snapped to this if needed - and not interfere with its fairlead function.


View attachment H 29 Stern fairlead pre-drilled.JPG



Continued in next post.....


SJS























 
Lots of careful measurement is needed when fitting the coamings. The curved side coamings are especially challenging because they must be sprung - then tightly clamped - into place before trimming for length. And, each end must be beveled to fit against the end coamings.



View attachment H 30 Coamings fitted.JPG



The White Ash coaming pieces are shaped - rounding over the 3 exposed edges with a router - and pre-drilled. They are then sealed with Spar Varnish. They get primed the following day.

View attachment H 31 Side coamings sealed.JPG



I taped off all of the areas that need new 'glass. I also taped around the chine so I would not get epoxy on the bottom at this juncture.


View attachment H 32 Glassing taped.JPG



I laid out all of the various pieces. I am using 7-ounce cloth.


View attachment H 33 Glass.JPG



Before mixing any resin, I carefully trim to each taped line.


View attachment H 34 Glass trimmed.JPG



Then I saturate both the hull and the 'glass - with a 3-inch chip brush - with epoxy resin.


When this coat was mostly cured but still tacky - about 8 hours later - I rolled a top coat of epoxy over the entire hull. I then started a fire in the stove to let everything "cook" overnight.


View attachment H 35 Glass wetted out.JPG



The next morning' I first wash off the amine blush with water and a sponge. I then scrape the entire hull to remove any high spots. Then, a couple of hours of tedious - I mean painstaking - sanding with 80-grit on the orbital sander. I set the sander speed to its highest (# 6) setting - and go through a bunch of discs.



View attachment H 36 Wash - scrape - sand.JPG



This is the "desired outcome". No yacht finish in this boat's future. Reasonably fair and enough "tooth" on the surface to hold the primer.



View attachment H 37 Ready for paint.JPG



The oarlock stanchions were fabricated from some nice 2-inch Mahogany. Once sealed with Spar Varnish, I sort of hate to cover all that sweet grain and color with grey paint.... In any event, I located and pre-drilled them. The tops of the stanchions are just above the coaming height. With the oarlocks and sockets, the oars themselves will be about an inch above the coamings and not bind during rowing.


View attachment H 38 Oarlock stanchion sealed and located.JPG



The bottoms of the stanchions are beveled at about 25 degrees - so they will be plumb when installed. The cut-offs serve as the backer boards belowdecks so that the Nylock nuts and fender washers that hold the 6-inch carriage bolts (all s/s) make up square and tight.


BTW: The holes bored for the sockets continue down through the stanchion to drain the sockets.


View attachment H 39 Oarlock stanchion and backers primed.JPG



Continued....


SJS










 
The mating surfaces of the deck hardware get sanded on the table sander - to provide a chemically fresh surface to bond with the 3M 5200 in which they will be bedded.


View attachment H 40 Fairleads rough sanded.JPG



The stern fairlead is bedded in 3M 5200 and wiped before it sets up. I sprayed all of the bedding compound with water to hasten the cure - after everything was installed and cleaned up.



View attachment H 41 Stern fairlead bedded and fastened.JPG



The coamings and stanchions were bedded in Boat-Life. Not quite as strong as 3M 5200 - but equally effective at making watertight seals.


The outside corners of the coamings will get their final shapes after the BoatLife has fully cured - in several days.


View attachment H 42 Coamings bedded and screwed.JPG



The stern cleat was permanently screwed through the aft coaming.



View attachment H 42B Stern cleat.JPG



The stanchions are rugged and sound.


View attachment H 43 Port stanchion fastened.JPG



The foredeck cleat is nylon - which does not stick well to either 5200 or Boat-Life. I had no open tube of silicon, though, so I took a minor risk and bedded it will 5200. Don't tell Mc......


It is fastened below with Nylocks and fender washers.



View attachment H 44 Foredeck cleat bedded.JPG



The bow fairlead is bedded in 5200.


View attachment H 45 Bow fairlead.JPG



Another hour's sanding along her sides and she's ready to be flipped over.....


View attachment H 48 - Coamings and fittings installed.JPG



All the best,


SJS

 
Sorry 'bout all that sanding buddy. She looks amazing.
And looking at that last pic, if that doesn't look like a "Butterball" I don't know what does.
Possible name?
 
Last edited:
Good morning, Mc et al~


"Butterball" certainly has the right local flavor.....


My foam - 2-inch High Density cushion foam from JoAnn Fabrics - arrived yesterday. I cut it to size on the table saw (a bit tricky) and the band saw (much safer), then attached it with spray adhesive. It will get covered with canvas when I break out the sewing machine.



View attachment H 50 Backrest with foam.JPG



Next project - making a pair of White Ash bows to support a canvas cockpit cover.


Carefully-beveled Mahogany blocks are glued to each length of Ash.


View attachment H 51 - ockpit bows clamped and glued..JPG



They had been sprung into place when measuring the lengths needed for high crowns.


View attachment H 52 Bows in place.JPG



The ends are trimmed and rounded over.


View attachment H 53 Bows trimmed to length.JPG



Each block is beveled in 2 planes so they mate snugly against the coamings.


View attachment H 54 Blocks cpd bevel.JPG



Long after the Gorilla Glue cured (overnight), bronze boat nails were added for redundant strength.


View attachment H 55 Bronze nails.JPG



Brass locator pins will keep the bows from moving once sprung into place. These will be finished bright, with 3 or 4 coats of Varnish.


View attachment H 56 Brass pins and varnish.JPG



I had one piece of Sunbrella Cadet Grey on hand - just enough for a lap cover - to hide the gunner and keep him or her a bit warmer and drier.



View attachment H 60 Lap cover Cadet Grey.JPG



The Locust turn-buttons are varnished and installed in the lateral floorboards with a fender washer between the button and the floorboard.



View attachment H 61 Locust turnbutton.JPG



The lateral floorboards are screwed down to the frames. The turn-buttons hold the central (removable) floorboard in place.



Each shelf is held in place with 2 screws - one through each quarter knee. This feature will make it easy to remove the shelves for maintenance as needed.



View attachment H 62a Turnbutton and shelf.JPG



...almost done for the day.....


SJS





 
At the end of the day, I had just enough time to roll on a coat of primer - and was rewarded by the "visual integrity" - seeing the whole vessel looking like one, well-appointed gunning boat.


View attachment H 63 Primer.JPG



As the nights are dipping into the low 30s of late - unusual this early in the Fall - I brought in a small supply of firewood so the Defiant could help the primer cure overnight.


View attachment H 64 Firewood.JPG



Tomorrow (Sunday) I will flip the hull and get the bottom ready for life on saltwater. I believe most of the work will be cosmetic. Then, just rub rails and canvas.....


All the best,


SJS

 
Just a few tasks whilst she was still rightside up.....


A portrait from her port bow.....


View attachment H 70 Bow on - primed.jpg



Her forward quarter.....


Without the spray shield she now looks very much like a traditional Great South Bay Scooter. Although I moved the cockpit forward and added the oarlock stanchions, I imagine her builder would be happy with the new cockpit and coamings.



View attachment H 71 Fwd quarter - primed.jpg



The cockpit cover bows still need more Varnish - but are needed right now for measurements.


View attachment H 72 - Canvas bows in place.JPG



DuraSkrim is a patterning fabric that holds it shape when stretched over the boat.


View attachment H 73 DuraSkrim taped and marked.JPG



The measuring and marking tools. The finished cover will extend 4 inches beyond the coamings. My marks show the finished domensions. About 2 more inches all around will be needed for the hems.



View attachment H 74 Marking tools.JPG



Fastener locations are marked where they make sense - as around the oarlock stanchions.


View attachment H 75 Fastener locations.JPG



This is a half-pattern. The symmetry of this vessel is now "close enough" to trust it for the whole cover. It is IDed and set aside until Sewing Season opens - right after I clean my shop and bench tops.....


View attachment H 76 Half-pattern labeled.JPG



The chain hoists make flipping very controlled - and easy on my back. I use rope between the hooks and the deck hardware to allow for an easy 180-degree twist as she goes over (always an anxious moment.....). The hoists hang from heavy eye nuts - fastened between paired joists - that run down the centerline of my shop's "boat bay".


View attachment H 78 Chain hoist and manilla.JPG



The bottom was as I expected - reasonably sound - with plenty of lumps and bumps from her 8 decades. I put cloth over patches and ran 2-inch tape around the chine - all set in epoxy. The stove was stoked to give her a thorough cure overnight. (I am happy to report that everything was crisp and dry this morning.)



View attachment H 79 Tape and cloth applied.JPG



Next, the usual scraping, grinding and sanding before new primer can go on.


All the best,


SJS





 
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