Free epoxy adhesive!

rich scheffer

rich scheffer

Well-known member
I have three 5 gal. pails of epoxy adhesive. This is intended for gluing foam core material together.[corebond] It is made by SP Systems, the best of the best! I have no hardner, you would have to purchase your own. This stuff works great on wood, foam, polyester parts and just aboutt anything you want to epoxy bond together.You pick it up or arrange a pickup by whatever shipping company you prefer. Again this is for free! If you need to talk to me my cell is 561 262 6428 Hope someone can use it.
 
I cant believe no one has taken advantave of this offer. A friend in new jersey wants a bucket, I checked with greyhound they want 60 dollars to ship a pail of this stuff. This is a low density thickened epoxy paste. It sands quite easily trowels very well. these are unopened pails that cost hundreds of dollars a pail .two or three guys could go in on the shipping and a two gallon pail of hardner and for a minimal investment have enough epoxy glue to last a lifetime! I just hate to throw it away!
 
Rich, I should have brought some up when I saw you! Does it have a shelf life? What hardener goes with it? I did a quick search when you first posted this and guessed at which adhesive it was.... don't throw it away yet. Would this be appropriate for fillet material in a S&G build? It would mean a second step to roughen, and then lay the wetted glass?

Dave
 
Dave sorry for not thinking of it then. This is Spa Bond 740 I built both of my small boats with it works great. the whole 86 was built with it. We have a kit set up inthe shop we use on a regular basis, we have limited opportunities to use it now as all our teak joinerwork needs a clear glue joint, this stuff is not clear. could send you a small amount to try. Let me know. Rich
 
Dave sorry for not thinking of it then. This is Spa Bond 740 I built both of my small boats with it works great. the whole 86 was built with it. We have a kit set up inthe shop we use on a regular basis, we have limited opportunities to use it now as all our teak joinerwork needs a clear glue joint, this stuff is not clear. could send you a small amount to try. Let me know. Rich
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I was interested, since I ahve a big project coming up, but I looked and can't find a distributor for Spabond 740 hardener, who do you use?

T
 
Guys: The closest distributor of SP Gurit resins is Jamestown distributors 401 253 3840 Rich
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I'm trying to find some hardener. Jamestown doesn't stock it. I've contacted Gurit directly.
 
Tod: Dan Chamberlain is our SP Gurit guy. Yesterday he told me they had a gallon of the hardener in stock, expired date but still good! I f you buy it you should beat them up on price. the spabond 740 adhesive I have is a metric bucket about 6 gallons. I checked yesterday, this stuff is around 900 bucks a bucket list. I guess the hardener lists for around the same per gallon. You can reach Dan at Dan Chamberlain @gurit.com Reference me in your e mail to him so he understands.
 
Tod: Dan Chamberlain is our SP Gurit guy. Yesterday he told me they had a gallon of the hardener in stock, expired date but still good! I f you buy it you should beat them up on price. the spabond 740 adhesive I have is a metric bucket about 6 gallons. I checked yesterday, this stuff is around 900 bucks a bucket list. I guess the hardener lists for around the same per gallon. You can reach Dan at Dan Chamberlain @gurit.com Reference me in your e mail to him so he understands.
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I'm on it Rich, I've contacted corporate and I'll email Dan. I've read the spec sheet so I think I understand what the stuff is. I'm doing a complete tear down of a 1970 20' Seacraft and the spabond seems like it would be great for general bonding anywhere you would use a thickened epoxy (but not for any glass work). Do you agree?

T
 
Tod this would be perfect for what you are going to do. I am sure you will be working on the transom too I did a 21 seacraft some years back. the plywood in the transom was shot! This adhesive would be a lot better than buying a lot of cans of west and is designed specifically for this application. Rich
 
Tod this would be perfect for what you are going to do. I am sure you will be working on the transom too I did a 21 seacraft some years back. the plywood in the transom was shot! This adhesive would be a lot better than buying a lot of cans of west and is designed specifically for this application. Rich
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Yes, I'm going to go down to the stringers and replace the transom and floor with Coosa (or similar). A total rebuild pulling the floor and cap and starting anew.
 
The ocoosa or penske board (very similar) are perfect for transom or cleat areas, but way too heavy for floors or decks. look for corecell or divinycell around H 80 density for the rest, light but still extremely strong when skinned properly!
 
The ocoosa or penske board (very similar) are perfect for transom or cleat areas, but way too heavy for floors or decks. look for corecell or divinycell around H 80 density for the rest, light but still extremely strong when skinned properly!
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What schedule would you use with a lighter coring? I ask because I have no idea. Guys that do the seacrafts use a lot of 1708/1808 and skin 1/2" plywood with one layer top and bottom for the floors I would think that wouldn't be OK for a lighter core like you suggest and you woudl need more glass. I'm just learning this stuff... suggestion?
 
Tod: after you have bonded all your new stringers in and put a hanger cleat all around the perimeter for the floor to rest on, I would glass everything with at least two 1708's. If you want to add another layer to the stringers up front that wont hurt. I would then make sure everything is fair and the new floor will lay lay evenly on it, you can use clay to look for low spots.Make a template out of doorskin strips and hot glue them together. use this to cut out the new floor. I would put two 1708's on the bottom, one on top. then when cured after dry fitting, bond the floor down with lots of adhesive. after it has set, use the second layer of 1708 to lock the floor down to the hull sides and transom. Sounds easy doesnt it ? Buy a bunch of beer and get a few of your hunting/fishing buddies to help! By the way in the old days 20 ft seacrafts were notorious sinkers becaust the decks were so low. Think about raising your new deck up a couple of inches. Rich
 
Hey guys two buckets left this week! I looked close they are 6 gallons each. A person whose name we wont mention here is sending his son down to pick up an old bbsb he bought from me, taking it back to the new england area. I bet we could get him to carry a pail back. this stuff is a two to one mix that gives nine gallons of mixed adhesive. How about a few guys co-op ing a bucket of hardner ?
 
Hey guys two buckets left this week! I looked close they are 6 gallons each. A person whose name we wont mention here is sending his son down to pick up an old bbsb he bought from me, taking it back to the new england area. I bet we could get him to carry a pail back. this stuff is a two to one mix that gives nine gallons of mixed adhesive. How about a few guys co-op ing a bucket of hardner ?
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If said kid does come down and back he would be driving either 7 or 22 miles from the house.

I'm talking with dan chamberlain on that expired hardener.
 
Couple of comments if I can. I'd strongly consider the Penske board over the Coosa. Penske was purchased a few years back and I'm not certain of who the owner now is butit is one of the big chemical companies.

Also, on the hardener, I would check the MSDS which you should easily be able to find. Considering that most epoxy hardeners are nothing special chemically (amines of some type generally), you could probably pick up the same thing for next to nothing elsewhere. If you need some help looking that up, give me a call (651) 283-4643 and I can probably find that info out.

Mark
 
Couple of comments if I can. I'd strongly consider the Penske board over the Coosa. Penske was purchased a few years back and I'm not certain of who the owner now is butit is one of the big chemical companies.

Also, on the hardener, I would check the MSDS which you should easily be able to find. Considering that most epoxy hardeners are nothing special chemically (amines of some type generally), you could probably pick up the same thing for next to nothing elsewhere. If you need some help looking that up, give me a call (651) 283-4643 and I can probably find that info out.

Mark
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Mark, reason on the Penske vs. Coosa? I hear a lot more about Coosa over Penske, that is the only reason I'm interested.
 
Mark and Tod: The Penske or Okoosa board is absoloutely the wrong material for this application. It is a urethane foam, it is very stiff which people equate with strength. It is not, it is very brittle. Its saving grace is its high compression strength,which is the reason boat builders use it for transoms on outboard boats or where cleats or other hardware are thru bolted. three quarter inch okoosa or penske board weighs 26 lbs. per cu ft. three quarter h-80 or the equiveland in core cell weighs about 5 lbs. per cu ft. Guys I am not trying to pull rank here but this is what I have been doing for a living for the past 31 years I work with this stuff every day. My projects cost millions of dollars and are done in concert with some of the top naval architects and structural engineers in the industry. None would build either a hull or deck out of penske or okoosa board. Yet I have seen hundreds upon hundreds of big and fast yachts and sportfish built out of divinicell and corecell! a bunch of 150 mph plus racers too! Never any built out of that heavy black stuff. By the way the divinycell h-80 in three quarter inch is 167 dollars per 4x8, the same thickness in the other stuff is$219.57 per sheet, you make the choice. Rich
 
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