BBSB REBUILD dodger is all done

Chris S.

Chris S.

Well-known member
Here are a few pictures of what I did today. I only worked about an hour. I was a bit intimidated by doing epoxy work. It is a lot eaiser then I thought. I just hope the glassing goes as easy as filling did today. I painted unthick epoxy on first and waited like 20 min I pushed the boat into the sun for about 5min. Then mixed up the epoxy and wood flour and began to work it in between the planks. I used a paper plate to keep the thickened epoxy and used a plastic putty knife to work in the gaps. I only did the front 3 feet or so as I was nervous doing this alone. Did they come out ok how does it look? Should they be wider? Thanks for all the help from everyone

View attachment 20110615163832.jpg

View attachment 20110615180445-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks good to me.

You are going to want to fill all the nail and screw head holes as well.
 
Yeah I figured I needed to do the screw holes too. should I put unthick epoxy on them first too?
 
Yeah I figured I needed to do the screw holes too. should I put unthick epoxy on them first too?
Click to expand...


Yes. Paint all surfaces with "unthick" epoxy 1st.

Boat looks great. Keep up the good work.
 
Looking good....I would address the cracked plank in the center rear of the boat. Can be seen in the first photo. You may want to dill out the knot and fill the hole and the crack running through it. Drill another hole at the end of the crack so it stops splitting the plank and fill it also.

Your BBSB is looking great.

Zane
 
Looking good....I would address the cracked plank in the center rear of the boat. Can be seen in the first photo. You may want to dill out the knot and fill the hole and the crack running through it. Drill another hole at the end of the crack so it stops splitting the plank and fill it also.

Your BBSB is looking great.



Thanks I will do that for sure
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Got the rest of the gaps filled and the screw holes filled and around the coming. now its time to sand it all fair. I got the boat in the garage just in time before the rain hit. After sanding then I will flip her over and do the bottom the same way. My glass and more epoxy will be here Friday. Hope to have all the glass on in 3 weeks then paint its a fun project
View attachment 20110621120630-1.jpg
View attachment 20110621120643-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
How hard is it to sand the epoxy and wood flour mix? I was kinda sloppy with it and have some high spots. When I was filling the screw holes it wasn't coming out flush so I left some there so I could sand flush. Is 50grit ok to use? Or should I use something else on the orbital? Thanks any ideas or comments are welcome.
 
How hard is it to sand the epoxy and wood flour mix? I was kinda sloppy with it and have some high spots. When I was filling the screw holes it wasn't coming out flush so I left some there so I could sand flush. Is 50grit ok to use? Or should I use something else on the orbital? Thanks any ideas or comments are welcome.
Click to expand...



It sands fine, but take note that it will sand a whole lot harder than the cedar, so you have to be careful you don't gouge the cedar between the joints in trying to smooth the epoxy/maple flour mix.

It goes without saying that the neater you put the thickened epoxy on the easier the sanding will be. Phenolic microballons as a thickener sand a lot easier than maple four (that is what they are used for - fairing).
 
Chris, you kind of created a pita. Next time use some microballons in the screw holes. You fill them up only to glass over them. The glass is the strength. Also next time, coat the whole boat and the relative hardness between the cedar and filler will become closer. Like Tod mentions it will be easy to have lots of highs and lows. In my experience a small die grinder and straight edge might be the ticket. Even a hard block will create lots of highs and lows. Good luck.
Frank
 
Chris, as Frank suggests, I would paint the hull, all the cedar with epoxy, let it flow into and seal the cedar. Then sand everything, with a random orbital. Just keep the sander moving and know the cedar will sand esier than the filler.

You are starting with a much more uniform hull than I did... I had way more repairs, and piecing to do.

Looking good!

Dave
 
If you are careful, you can use a Sureform to knock down the big lumps before you use the orbital to finish the job. The Sureform will grab and gouge if you get too aggressive, but it is easy to fill the dings with thickened epoxy when you fair the topside. A belt sander digs worse and the damage is harder to fair.

Nate
 
I used a lot of 40 grit when I did mine, just take it slow till ya see how its going. A coarse file or wood rasp will knock down those high spots without gouging the softer wood. Lookn good, keep the good work!
Dennis
 
I went and bought a sureform, I think its called a pocket plane. Kinda looks like a cheese greater. It worked awesome to knock off the high spots and got everything pretty fair. Now I can put a coat of epoxy over the rest of the boat and then sand it all fair and prep it for glass. Nate thanks for the idea it worked great. Thanks everyone else for help. I will post more pics in a week or so.
 
Last edited:
If you are careful, you can use a Sureform to knock down the big lumps before you use the orbital to finish the job. The Sureform will grab and gouge if you get too aggressive, but it is easy to fill the dings with thickened epoxy when you fair the topside. A belt sander digs worse and the damage is harder to fair.

Nate
Click to expand...

Ack. I could've used that on my boat build. I got lumps all over the edges where the epoxy managed to gravitate to when the boat was upside down (when I left it to dry after epoxying the topside).

Now I know...

Anthony
 
I have a 30 grit disk on my sidegrinder that is awesome when you have really big lumps. I used it to clean up my shear after epoxying my rub rail on. It always leaves you some fairing work if you use it on a flat surface, but dang it is fun to obliterate epoxy lumps with that little effort.

Nate
 
Today I sanded and faired the deck. Then put on 2 coats of epoxy. The ceder on this sneakbox is old and it soaked up epoxy like a sponge. I put on the 1st coat and let it set tack free (2hrs) and put a 2nd coat. It will sit over the weekend while I work then on Monday I will give it a sanding. Then flip her over and start the bottom. I will be a lot neater with the thickened epoxy this time around. Then its on to the glass. This has been a really fun project. Any thoughts ideas or comments are welcome. Thanks.
View attachment 20110623195219-1.jpg

View attachment 20110623195302-1.jpg

View attachment 20110623195314-1.jpg
View attachment 127.jpg
 
Last edited:
All good advice, check the chines, make sure the cloth will go around them. A consistant radius will look good and make your glassing a lot easier. I would run 4 or 6 inch tape around the chines first, let it cure then sand off the spines and bumps. Next do the top or bottom. Flat surfaces like the deck or bottom are relatively easy to glass, wraping the glass around the chines or edges can be a challenge for beginners. The chines will probably take the most abuse so extra cloth will be an advantage If you find any holes you missed while filling you can fill them with thickened epoxy and glass right over it duriing your glassing process. Better than an air pocket! Nice job, How did you keep the floor so clean?
 
How did you keep the floor so clean?




I just kept checking to make sure the epoxy wasn't dripping. When i glass it i will put a floor cover down
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top