NDR, but epoxy related...

Geoff Schroeder

Geoff Schroeder

Member
Hey guys. I'm looking for some help on a project. The family has long kept track of everyone's height measurements going all the way back to the 50's. There are currently 19 of us represented many times over on that door. It's a simple white bathroom door which is now nearly covered in pencil scrawl. Over time, the paint has come up and begun peeling across a significant portion, endangering many of the marks and scrawls. it's also time to renovate the bathroom. Fingers have pointed to me as the guy who gets to save the door.

My plan is to remove 1/4 inch from the door all the way around, frame out the removed portion with 1/4 in. strips which stand a bit tall of the level of the door (after leveling the door , and pour warmed epoxy over the leveled door, thus completely encapsulating the writing and peeling paint. Problem, as I foresee it, is the yellowing of the epoxy over time. Is there any way to eliminate this problem? Thanks for the thinking. -Geoff
 
Hey guys. I'm looking for some help on a project. The family has long kept track of everyone's height measurements going all the way back to the 50's. There are currently 19 of us represented many times over on that door. It's a simple white bathroom door which is now nearly covered in pencil scrawl. Over time, the paint has come up and begun peeling across a significant portion, endangering many of the marks and scrawls. it's also time to renovate the bathroom. Fingers have pointed to me as the guy who gets to save the door.

My plan is to remove 1/4 inch from the door all the way around, frame out the removed portion with 1/4 in. strips which stand a bit tall of the level of the door (after leveling the door , and pour warmed epoxy over the leveled door, thus completely encapsulating the writing and peeling paint. Problem, as I foresee it, is the yellowing of the epoxy over time. Is there any way to eliminate this problem? Thanks for the thinking. -Geoff
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Lots of places sell stuff especially for bars and tables - it isn't supposed to yellow and is formulated for pouring. I'd get that and not worry about it. Check on a small area to make sure the epoxy doesn't lift your paint - it probably wouldn't but you might want to check.

I don't ahve a link, but it would be easy to find.
 
Geoff, they make a resin especially for table tops,Around here you see it in a lot of resturants and bars,with sand and sea shells encapsulated in it. I am sure they give instructions, but if you pour it on, it is beat to go over it with a heat gun to get rid of the bubbles. West makes a uv filtered resin that stays clear for years or maybe forever You use the 105 standard resin and their 207 hardner. hope this helps Rich
 
Us composites makes the clear table top epoxy and they are better priced then west systems. Thay have a web site. uscomposites.com good luck with the project.
 
I think the epoxy is overkill. Why not just go to a automotive store and purchase some clearcoat in a spraycan? Cheap, easy and readily available anywhere. If you are concerned about a solvent based paint lifting the flaking house paint, purchase a waterborne clearcoat.

Mark W
 
use what mark said

the have it at ace hardware and menards hardware stores

you can put it on with a brush also my friend does this on table legs

he poars the tops if you get air bubbles just sand it flat and put on another coat.

Will turn clear again after you sand and apply a second coat.
 
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