That is the original Busick plan. Tony made a good move by buying the rights to it.
I have everything cut out and some of the construction done. Here is what I have learned so far. Some of it will likely not make sense until you get to that step.
Where some kind of gloves when handling the 1/4 plywood. I am still pulling splinters out of my hands. Every time I touched the stuff, I got a splinter or two. It was annoying.
Maybe try ironing the plans out to make them flatter. Mine were older and the creases made it tricky to layout the paper templates on the wood.
Make sure to use weights to hold down the template when tracing them on to the wood. This helps to keep them from moving around especially on the big pieces.
Frames #5 and #7 have doublers that need to be exact matches. Cut out the #5 plywood frame first. Then use the plywood one to trace around for the pine one, or visa versa. I cut them both out using the paper template and they didn't match. Operator error, but the paper is difficult to keep still on the wood. Cut out the #7 frame, then use its profile for the #7A. When you match up the pieces and screw them together you can use a spoke shave to make them perfect.
When you drill the holes in the apron pieces, countersink the holes for the screws at the same time. Then flip the pieces all over to put the countersinks on the bottom where they belong. It is more difficult to countersink from below if you wait to do it later.
Make sure you put something flat and heavy over the wax paper when you glass the apron pieces together. That way they come out nice and smooth.
I am using TiteBond III for the places where the joints have a good fit and to laminate frames together. The plans call for epoxy, but I have read that Titebond III can be stronger with a good fitting joint. Titebond is a lot easier to use as well.
That is as far as I have got. I hope to finish the box portion this weekend. Although I have to work on Sat.