ZBW Build

Paul Strombeck

Active member
I have started the next sneak box and thought I would share the progress and ask some questions in the process.
As you can see the stringers and molds boards are in place and I have clamped on the sides for initial fitting.
The design has been changed as follows;
Boat is one foot wider with all other dimensions proportional
Slope of hull bottom has been changed from 1 in 8 to 1 in 6 rise
Skeg is out and Transom is 2" taller to accomodate outboard
Note the width change made the bow significantly wider
View attachment IMG_1182 (2).jpg

I won't be able to do much now until it warms up a little and I can use glue
Any thoughts on the changes would be appreciated
Thoughts on glues - what 'soft setting' glue would you siggest for setting ribs to keel? What glue would you use for 'general adhesive work - deck to ribs and hull etc.
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Thanks

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In these modern times I would use either 3M 5200 - Dave Clark used this on many of his wooden rib systems - or Titebond III for a glue constructed wooden boat.
 
Paul~

Congratulations - nothing quite as exciting as building a new boat!

I am not familiar with the design/plans so have no comments on dimensions. re Skeg: From my experience with other hulls, you may not know if you want this until you try her with a particular engine. The skeg is most important for rowing or poling but can also make a big difference when you are in reverse. In deep water, I like to pick up the rig by working upwind in reverse. My old boat (a planing hull, no skeg) was perfect for this. My Barnegat (which is more of a displacement hull and has a skeg) will only do it up to a point - then she'll spin like a teacup if I give her too much throttle.

re Glues: I use an adhesive caulk like 3M 5200 or Sikaflex or Boatlife. They fill gaps, hold forever, and, most important, do not let moisture into the joint. Others may prefer a thickened epoxy. Either way, they are not cheap.

Again, I'm not familiar with your plans, but I'm not sure you need or want to glue your ribs (frames) to your hull. Unless the frame is serving as a bulkhead and you do not want water to get in or out, for most plywood-hulled boats, it is best just to fasten to the longitudinals, i.e., gunnels, keelson, stringers, deck purlins.

Hope this helps,

SJS
 
Paul,
Great project! Out of curiosity, what type of wood are you using? I spent some time studying the plans once, and thought it would be a fun build.

Thanks for sharing!

-Bill
 
I realize there are better wood choices than the pine but I live in rural MN and went with the pine I could get locally. I do intend to glass the exterior and double seal the interior. Transom is 5 ply exterior rated 3/4 plywood with no void in plys. Did just find a vendor with small stock of white oak and mahogany about 40 miles away. Figure I'll get the oak for the motor bracket and transom strut.
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This is Zack Taylors widgeon just 1 foot wider and not as deep.
 
Weather here held me back a couple of weeks but I finally was able to set the bottom plywood last Sunday and flip the hull off the molds to frame the deck and cockpit. The 6 inches of snow here on Thursday was really a pain.
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Hats off to the members here - by searching the archives I was able to find a very good price on resin and glass, determine resin yield rates etc.
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Once I finish the bracing I will epoxy coat the interior, set the motor bracket and deck plywood. By that time it should be warm enough to do some fiberglassing once I get the garden in.
View attachment Zack Box BBSB.jpg
 
With warmer temps I was able to epoxy coat the interior - install and fair the deck. I was suprised at how hard the wood flour filler is to sand. I just ordered some microballons to use when fairing the laminate seams.
View attachment IMG_1887 (2).jpg
I picked a 1974 9.8 hp for the BBSB but after watching Tony's video I wish I would have picked up a 15hp.
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Have fun guys
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The glass work is done and I just rolled the boat outside to cure for a couple of weeks. BTW using a heat gun on the still wet resin (as described by Devlin) does a very nice job of leveling the coat and getting the air bubbles out. Now we're down to paint and outfitting. In the meantime I will get the outboards ready - impellers and lower unit shaft seals.
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View attachment 1373207464007 (2).jpg

I ordered a spray shield from Diane hopefully that will get here in the next two weeks or so.
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Gull Decoys are from Knutson's Sporting goods. Nice selection of duck hunting decoys and rigging gear.

http://www.knutsondecoys.com/decoys.html

There is a sand bar not far from me that the ducks and gulls like to loaf on so I bought two standing gulls to set on the boat and two floaters. I have hunted the spot before with a field layout blind before - this year I will use the boat.
 
I put the base layer of grass on. Used KillerWeed (raffia) as my base. Once we get closer I'll add switch grass which closely resembles wild rice.
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I took the boat down to the launch and it never fails the recoil starter on the 9.9 crapped out so I went back to the house and strapped n the 4 hp angle drive. Don't go fast but sheds weeds nice. Took a nice ride around the marsh. Boat is nice and stable and no problem operating while standing. Doesn't seem to corner real well but I never did but on any Keelsons.
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When I replaced the carb and water pump assembly on the 9.9 the recoil starter did look suspect

View attachment 1378046587498 (2).jpg
 
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