Arthur Armstrong Broadbill

Chip M.

Active member
I knew my patience would payoff! Just picked up my 1985 AA Broadbill from a private sale in NH. Couldn't be happier and looking forward to learning a great deal about working with glass as I have ZERO experience up to this point. Wood in the transom will need to come out after season and hoping I can put a new tinted gelcoat on the top half and combing cover and reinforce a few spots here and there but it's in very good condition.

I'll be looking to you all for experience and tips!




 
Nice find. Careful on cinching up the straps-you can stress fracture the fiberglass. You want it tight but not pulled tight with all your weight.

When you get to the point of transom replacement, do it once and use Coosa Board. It is pricey and if you search the web one company sells partial sheets that will fit your needs. I doubled up on the thickness rather than putting the second piece where the transom motor mount lies. Make sure you can fit the top half over when the transom rebuild is complete.

My only suggestion I wish I did when I had my boat in two was to beef up the glass in the bow. I can always do it in the future but easier when the cockpit cover is off the hull.

Your boat is same vintage as mine and plywood was pressure treated. Even though my floor is plywood it is still solid since it is only coated with fiberglass on top and not bottom-it has a chance to dry out. If you replace go with the Coosa-lighter and stronger and lifetime.

You will find plywood strips for the screws that afix the top half of boat to bottom half. Many here at time when I was resurecting my boat doubted AZEK PVC trim. So far so good after 20 months. Nice part is that it is light weight and bends. Otherwise, use the composite deck boards sliced to desired dimensions.

Brass through hull connector is easy with the flanging tool you can pick up on Amazon for about thirty dollars. When you put the boat back together bolt the handles through the transom rather than screws-that is how I firm up boat to the trailer rather than over the top. Also, start screwing the boat back together form the bow and work your way side to side front to back with clamps-boat pieces will come together firmly. Otherwise you may not be able to get the stern to close.

Finally, you will begin to think you made a huge mistake when you pull apart the boat as they seamed them together with 5200 or similar. Use a putty knife a half inch at a time laying on your back and you will win.

I know it is a lot of information and way to early but I spent a good while searching and looking before I got into it. My total time restoring my boat from demolition to seaworthy was about two months on weekends. Good luck and send a message if you are looking for suppliers on the Coosa or trim-I found an exact match without having to buy a whole buch extra. Test her out for a short run and don't be alarmed if you find leaks. Just add more sealant on the seam.

Good hunting and enjoy-I love my little boat and have had more fun in it than my bay boat. Thinking about an evening of striped bass fishing in the next week or two as they return for the fall run-not much hunting down here until the second season in November opens and love getting out in this little boat.
 
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Great info Chris! I am so looking forward to getting this into better than new condition!
 
Nice boat. Did you ever do any work on it? Just curious on how it came out. Also, I requested to join your Arthur Armstrong page on Facebook tonight.
 
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