AUGUST ~ What's on your workbench ?
- Thread starter Steve Sanford
- Start date
Pat Gregory
Well-known member
Carl - Everyone is copying the Creator of that one and those like it. I am always amazed by His handy work and am humbled every time I hold one in my hand... 
Pat
Pat
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I managed to put this in the wrong folder when I downloaded it...finally stumbled across it last night.
To give you a better sense of how well those Delta Marsh canvasbacks were designed to hunt in high winds...
Pat, nice job incorporating a ruddy in your decoy carving style!
To give you a better sense of how well those Delta Marsh canvasbacks were designed to hunt in high winds...
Pat, nice job incorporating a ruddy in your decoy carving style!
Pat Gregory
Well-known member
Rick - Those decoys were from the Jimmy Robinson's Sports Afield Club near St. Ambroise, Manitoba. I know a gentleman that bought some of that rig and still uses it today. Having experienced hunting Ducharme cans before, they are amazing on the water and look as much like a can than anything I've seen, especially the hens. They have a perfect silhouette and a can look. IMHO, they are the perfection between the simple and the real. Ducharme was a master at this.
Pictures of one of his and one of mine. Photography by Fred Greenslade, Delta Waterfowl.
View attachment delta1.jpg
View attachment ducharme5.jpg
Pictures of one of his and one of mine. Photography by Fred Greenslade, Delta Waterfowl.
View attachment delta1.jpg
View attachment ducharme5.jpg
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MLBob Furia
Well-known member
Too hot & humid to train dogs yesterday, so I turned on the AC in the studio and did a few hours work on one of the birds that's stacked up in there awaiting paint, a mallard drake:
Shading & highlights over combing-
View attachment Mall0.jpg
Applying spatter with a toothbrush:
View attachment Mall2.jpg
Spattered vermiculation on side pockets and back completed, and tertials repainted with base color to clean up overspray from spatter brush:
View attachment Mall3.jpg
Shading & highlights over combing-
View attachment Mall0.jpg
Applying spatter with a toothbrush:
View attachment Mall2.jpg
Spattered vermiculation on side pockets and back completed, and tertials repainted with base color to clean up overspray from spatter brush:
View attachment Mall3.jpg
Pat Gregory
Well-known member
Bob - You are the king of spatter! Wonderful technique! Thanks for sharing. Pat
A little more Steve Sanford influence added to my BBSB for this season.
I had started the gun rack last year, but after seeing Steve's build and his pole keepers I added to what I had and then finished them off today:
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I have since added a bungee keeper. Pictured is the Red Magnus shoving oar that Rufus gifted to me. I also found an old Herter's duckbill foot, so now I need a 10ft pole for that. I think I will stop in the hardwood shop to see what I might find in ash or spruce?
I had started the gun rack last year, but after seeing Steve's build and his pole keepers I added to what I had and then finished them off today:
I have since added a bungee keeper. Pictured is the Red Magnus shoving oar that Rufus gifted to me. I also found an old Herter's duckbill foot, so now I need a 10ft pole for that. I think I will stop in the hardwood shop to see what I might find in ash or spruce?
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Dave~
Great details! I presume you will market your Gun + Pole Chock as the Trident.....
Although a spruce pole would be great for your Herter's Duckbill, I have been well-served by closet pole (1-5/16" d) - carefully selected for straightness and clear grain. Because a push pole is not bent - as a shovin' oar is - I have not needed the strength of Ash. (I think you engineers would say I just need the compression strength and not the tensile.....?)
All the best,
SJS
Great details! I presume you will market your Gun + Pole Chock as the Trident.....
Although a spruce pole would be great for your Herter's Duckbill, I have been well-served by closet pole (1-5/16" d) - carefully selected for straightness and clear grain. Because a push pole is not bent - as a shovin' oar is - I have not needed the strength of Ash. (I think you engineers would say I just need the compression strength and not the tensile.....?)
All the best,
SJS
Pat Gregory
Well-known member
Dave - Excellent work! Pat
Pat Gregory
Well-known member
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
Steve, I agree about the closet pole. Had mine for 15-18 years. Have to replace it this year.
Picked up a closet pole on the way home from church today. Will have to reduce the diameter for the foot, round the end and add the Turk's Head, then seal it, paint it and finally add the foot.....
Done! I was wrong, not a Herter's foot, this one is from Rich-Mar, but equally old school.....
After the end was rounded and the foot end reduce in diameter to fit, I gave the pole 2 coats of spar varnish. A piece of brass rod was heated so I could peen it over and use it as a rivet pin to secure the head along with 5200.
Installed the Turk's Head with 5200 and then a coat of #28 FME.
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After the end was rounded and the foot end reduce in diameter to fit, I gave the pole 2 coats of spar varnish. A piece of brass rod was heated so I could peen it over and use it as a rivet pin to secure the head along with 5200.
Installed the Turk's Head with 5200 and then a coat of #28 FME.
Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
Dave, how did you turn the end to fit? I whittled my old one down, but off center.
Rich, I have a 1"x 30" bench top belt sander. I set my adjustable roller to the same height and just rotated the pole against the sander.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Dave & Rich~
Yes - the "new" ones are made by Rich-Mar. I think the design is exactly the same as the original Herter's, though.
And Yes, the end needs to be cut down to receive the socket. I first make a shallow cut around the closet pole with a coping saw or pull saw at the upper end of where the socket will go. (I have also done it on the table saw with the blade set low and the fence set the proper distance.) I then carve the rest down with my X-acto knife. Setting it in 5200 is important to prevent rattling and to keep moisture out.
Dave - great idea with the brass rod-for-rivet!
All the best,
SJS
Yes - the "new" ones are made by Rich-Mar. I think the design is exactly the same as the original Herter's, though.
And Yes, the end needs to be cut down to receive the socket. I first make a shallow cut around the closet pole with a coping saw or pull saw at the upper end of where the socket will go. (I have also done it on the table saw with the blade set low and the fence set the proper distance.) I then carve the rest down with my X-acto knife. Setting it in 5200 is important to prevent rattling and to keep moisture out.
Dave - great idea with the brass rod-for-rivet!
All the best,
SJS
I was surprised to see the foot was from Rich-Mar.... I have had it for over 30 years. I honestly don't remember how I acquired it, but remember cutting a sapling out of the woods on my property in Vermont when I first started hunting.... when we moved to Virginia 20 years ago I retired many duck hunting items and focused on deer hunting. Apparently the push pole was left along the fence (likely on the cross bar?). Well the fence rotted away and the leaves pilled up.... a couple years ago, I reclaimed that area of the yard some and happened upon the foot buried. The pole was completely gone.