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MLB chuck huff bbsb refresh

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MLB chuck huff bbsb refresh
So I've had this 2008 mlb broadbill for roughly 1 season. This summer I wanted to paint it one solid color, so I went out and picked up some paint and asked my father in law if I could use some of his garage space for a couple of weeks.

I began tearing the boat down to the hull 3 days ago. Man, time and salt we're we're not kind on the hardware. Haha a good portion of the bolts had to be cut off with a die grinder.

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Anthoni Rossi: Jul 5, 2018, 9:53 AM
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I was able to sand most of the top down with an 80 grit orbital. Once that was completed, I used duraglass to fill in some of the, "superfluous" holes.

I didn't take any pics of the top, but I'll post some before I prime it.
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Last night we flipped the boat upside down and I started work on the bottom. This boat had previously been worked on from a crack in the hull. I tried sanding that section as smooth as possible. I'll be adding a skim coat of dura glass to the hull.

I disassembled the back of the boat. I went to remove the screws holding the wood in place and 3/4 of them broke. Haha. I also couldn't get one of the screws holding one of the handles out either.

I also went to a local hardware store and picked up some new stainless hardware today.

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Today was spent cleaning up the bottom of the hull. As mentioned before, the previous owner fixed a crack in the hull. After sanding the area as flat as I could without sanding into the glass, I coated the area with a layer of duraglass for aesthetics only. Once cured, I sanded smooth. Much less bumps than previous. I should be able to prime tomorrow.

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Anthoni Rossi: Jun 13, 2018, 8:31 AM
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Looking good! Did you check the interior side of that hull crack repair to make sure it was intact and structurally sound?
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Yeah, functionally it is fine. The guy I bought the boat from glassed both sides of the crack. I will be sanding the inside smooth also. I want to get the bottom primed and painted before I work on the other side so I only have to flip it once. Haha
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Very cool please keep posting updates
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And the bottom primed (still drying in the picture). I'll paint it, then finish the top.
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Looks great! glad to see you fixing this boat up. Any plans for modification?
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No mods yet. I'm going to get it to a clean baseline first. I was thinking of running two more chines on the bottom to help stiffen up the hull, but I may wait to do it another year.

The stern part of the hull seems to, "beer can" with waves at low speeds. Once I'm on plane it's not as bad. A stringer was also a thought too.
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I didn't get the hull painted last night, but I did get it sanded to 320 grit. I wanted the bottom as slick as possible for efficiency sake.
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Nice work, time well spent.
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Anyone know where I can get a duck boats.net decal? This boat had one in it. I'd like to put another one on it when it's finished.
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Nice work .......... After painting the bottom, have you considered putting a coat of gator glide on to add the slickness ?
I wish you well pilgrim, Chuck
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Hey Chuck,

I thought about doing something on the bottom, but not something to make it slicker. I'll have to look some of that stuff up.
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Alright guys,

I finally got some time this weekend to shoot some paint. Man I really had to think the stuff down to get it to come out of the gun properly. With it being 92°F yesterday, i also had a tough time not sweating on the paint while it dried. Haha. Here's a picture of it while it was still wet. I'm going to flip the boat and start prepping it for primer tonight, so I'll post a dried picture of the hull tonight or tomorrow am.

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Anthoni Rossi: Jun 18, 2018, 4:23 AM
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It's too late, but Wealon wetlander would have been a good choice for abrasion protection. Tim Speight and I both have it on our duckboat hulls.
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Alright. I got some pictures of the dried paint . Man, it turned out better than I thought it would. I got the boat flipped over, went over the top with 180 grit, and sanded down the travel cover. The travel cover had a couple of dings in it. I'll have to hit it with some duraglass, then it should be ready for primer. I'm debating using 320 grit on the top. I don't want it too shiny. I also drilled out the latches and filled the holes in. I ordered a new set on amazon that I think will work better in the cold.

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Anthoni Rossi: Jun 19, 2018, 4:20 AM
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I repaired a couple cracks in the travel lid. After that, I sanded the lid and top side in 180 grit. Once that was finished, I primed them. The lines in the primer are from: 1. The paint was still wet. 2. Over spray from be not being a good painter. Haha. I'm going to sand it to 320 grit tonight, then I wait for more paint to get here.

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Anthoni Rossi: Jun 20, 2018, 9:17 AM
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I finally got to paint today. I'm going to let it cure for a couple of days before I start working on the wiring. I still need to prime and paint the brush rails, cleats, and handles in the meantime.

Side question: what do you guys use to replace the wood on the outside of the transom that the outboard rests on? I was looking at high density polystyrene on Amazon, but I didn't know if it was strong enough.



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Nice job Anthoni! Boat looks great. What brand/color of paint did you use? Decals have been brought up a few times. The decal you mentioned that was on your boat was probably a decal that Eric had the rights to use way back around, late 90's. If I remember right the individual has pasted on and Eric no longer has the rights. There was a contest of sorts back in the mid 2000's to come up with a replacement but I don't know what happened. I do know there were some shirts made with the new logo but don't remember a decal. You might message Eric P or Chuck J.

Take care,

Ed L.
East Moline,
Illinois
_________________________________________
If I'd had asked what they wanted they would have said faster horses" - Henry Ford

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Ed L.: Jul 1, 2018, 7:29 PM
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Thanks for the kind words. It's duralux duck boat drab paint. I'm interested to see how well it holds up come duck season. The nice thing is they sell it in cans as well as aerosols. I bought a couple rattle cans of it to do the rails and hardware. Easier than having to clean the paint gun.
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I painted a bunch of hardware and the brush rails last night. I got some aerosol versions of the duralux paint to make it easier to paint the hardware. It worked pretty well. Specially at $3 a can on Amazon.




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Anthoni~


Spectacular workmanship - congratulations!


I have been using treated lumber ( 2x10 Southern Yellow Pine) for motorboards for a long time. I've had better luck than with White Oak.



I seal the boards with 3 coats of epoxy and mount them with 3/8" s/s carriage bolts (with a 1/2-inch AC plywood backer board inside) and bed the hull-board joint and the bolt shafts with 3M 5200.





I use spacers to set the board off from the hull for 2 reasons. (I mostly use just 2 spacer blocks nowadays - none in the middle.) First reason is to minimize the opportunity for moisture to get between the hull and the board and thereby rot the board. The other is to serve as a lifting handle. Note how all of the edges are rounded for comfort.


I use a 1.5 inch Forstner bit (drill press) to bore shallow "pits" to hold the clamping pads for whatever outboard will be used. I bore these prior to sealing with epoxy.






Keep up the fine work!


SJS



Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com


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Well, I got the rails and hardware installed. I started working on the transom board. Only bummer is I didn't notice the holes for the bow handle were not straight. Oh well, it's going to get brushed in anyways. Haha
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Got the transom board installed and mounted the prop. I'll post the picture of the completed wiring tonight.
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Anthoni, very nice refurbish work!
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Thanks man!
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Anthoni

Your boat is looking good. Have you used that motor with this hull already? It may just be an optical illusion, but in the photo, the motor looks huge, and out of proportion the hull size. Isn't the CG rating 6hp for this hull? I'm curious how it will sit, once it's on the water. What size motor is that?

Take care, Huntindave McCann Smile SHELL ROCK IA “As sailors grow older, the wiser ones move to smaller boats.” —Thomas Firth Jones, Multihull Voyaging
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Yeah, I used it all last season. Its a tohatsu 4 stroke 15hp outboard. The uscg rating is 15hp. It works really well for the boat. I wouldn't say it sags or anything from the outboard. With me and the motor on the back it is tilted when not moving.
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Anthoni Rossi wrote:
Yeah, I used it all last season. Its a tohatsu 4 stroke 15hp outboard. The uscg rating is 15hp. It works really well for the boat. I wouldn't say it sags or anything from the outboard. With me and the motor on the back it is tilted when not moving.


Well that sounds like a good match then. If the hull is rated for 15 hp it makes me question if you actually have the MLB Broadbill or if you have it's bigger brother, the MLB Chuck Huff. What is the actual measurements lengthwise and beam at widest point. Also what is the cockpit size length and width? Those measurements would be key in differencing between the two hulls.

Take care, Huntindave McCann Smile SHELL ROCK IA “As sailors grow older, the wiser ones move to smaller boats.” —Thomas Firth Jones, Multihull Voyaging
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Now that you mention it, it is a Chuck Huff. I always thought it was the name of the maker on my title for the boat. Hahaha.

The more you know. Lol
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Anthoni Rossi wrote:
Now that you mention it, it is a Chuck Huff. I always thought it was the name of the maker on my title for the boat. Hahaha.

The more you know. Lol


I suspected this from your first photos but didn't want to question you. I'll send you some info on the floor/hull oil canning issue. You may wish to address this while you are at it. Check your PM's in the near future, I'll try to get it sent later today or tomorrow.

Take care, Huntindave McCann Smile SHELL ROCK IA “As sailors grow older, the wiser ones move to smaller boats.” —Thomas Firth Jones, Multihull Voyaging
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Thanks, yeah I definitely noticed it oil cans at lower speeds. It seems to stiffen up a little more when you're on plane. I was considering putting some stringers in the back , or glass in some strips of wood the length of the boat.
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took her out for a shakedown/fly fishing trip in the bay. Ran like a top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bXKkyhxZuzC1uMA58

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Anthoni Rossi: Jul 6, 2018, 1:48 PM
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Very nice indeed, I?m getting a ?new to me? Predator (chuck huff) ready for the upcoming season. How do you like your motor choice? I?m stuck between 2 and 4 stroke 15?s right now.......

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Dale Frost: Jul 30, 2018, 6:06 PM
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Steve,

Do you happen to know how much one of your motor boards weighs?
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Steve~


I just saw your question - so ran out to the shop. The motor board weighs just about 6 pounds.


All the best,


SJS

Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com


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Thanks, Steve. That's about what I expected (actually a little less) given how robust those motor mounts look.

Yesterday I tried a different, heavier, more-powerful outboard on my boat, and am wondering whether the motor mount should be beefed up.

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Steve O: Aug 6, 2018, 6:44 AM