Burlap over paint

Jay K

Active member
Forgive me if these are stupid questions.

I have a dozen foam brant decoys I picked up for pennies, practically, 2 years ago. They are in need of some TLC. They are raw foam, painted. I understand that I'll get way more mileage out of them by burlapping them. Two questions I have...

1) What is the go to method for repairing foam bodies? For example, two of the decoys have big chips out of the tail.
2) Is it recommended to strip the paint prior to burlapping them? I worry the burlap will not adhere to the pre-painted bodies. I supposed if I have to strip the paint, some light sanding would be best.
 
What I do to repair foam blocks. I cut a chunk of foam, (I try to keep up with similar density), and just fit it into the damaged area. Sometimes a little clean up of the block is necessary to match the cut piece. I've used Gorilla-type glues with pretty good success. It will foam up, then just trim smooth. Since you're burlapping them, it doesn't really matter anyway, as long as everything is smooth and void free.

As far as the paint, if the paint is tight, and sticking just fine, chances are the mastic will stick as well. That is pretty much the rule for paint too, except, mastic is water based and not anywhere near as costic as some solvent based paints.

I'm sure others will chime in with better ideas..

Jon
 
If the chunks are more like holes than they are missing sections you could use a spray foam (greatstuff) and then trim once dried.

As far as burlap application I certainly see no need to remove all paint but a good sanding and thorough cleaning couldn't hurt to help with adhesion.

Just out of curiosity have you considered rustle coating them? I've done a bunch of decoys in this manner and have been very pleased with the durability and more so than that the appearance of the decoy
 
Good morning, Jay~


How soft is the foam? Got photos?


If very soft, mastic + burlap will give a nice tough skin - but the process is messy and adds lots of weight.


Some sort of "Restle-coating" (I like epoxy + ground walnut shells or sawdust) is an option IF the foam is fairly sturdy. If you can easily dent it with your thumb - as with plain styrofoam and some insulation board foams - it's probably better off with the mastic + burlap.


re prepping: I took a couple dozen Herter's Model 81 Brant to my DIY car wash - to get the dirt and salt off.


All the best,


SJS

 
As always, top notch answers. I didn't even know of the restle coating. That may be the ticket. The foam is solid. It's not "indentable" with a finger. So I may opt for the restle coating. Then I'll need to brush up on my painting skills.
 
If you need help with the painting I would highly recommend visiting Steve sanford's website. I am the least talented painter in the country and by following his guidance provided on his Web page I was able to make some half decent looking decoys
 
Hi Jay,

I am a big fan of restle coating. I'll share my "recipe".

Titebond II glue diluted 50/50 with water. Apply a coat and then coat with sawdust. Allow to dry and then take a Shop Vac with the brush attachment and remove loose dust. Apply another coat of glue/water and dust with another coat of sawdust. Allow to dry and hit with Shop Vac. I go with two coats of sawdust, but you certainly could go with three depending on what you like. It holds the paint very well!!

Best,
Steve
 
Steve, why are you cutting the Titebond? Andy why use II vs III? I do same 2x application, along with the shop vac to reduce the dust in the shop, but use the Titebond III, neat for both coats.
 
I think based on everything I've read here, I'm settled on restle coating. Now the two questions become:

1) Titebond or epoxy? I assume the Titebond is cheaper but the epoxy I know is tougher.
2) Walnut shells or saw dust. As for the saw dust, where do you even go about getting an appreciable amount?
 
Good morning, Jay~


I've settled on Homer Coat (finely ground walnut shells - MUCH better than the coarser stuff I tried from Harbor Freight) on the bodies and fine sawdust (from my bandsaw) for the heads. Sawdust from a table saw is too coarse - and from a sander too fine. With dust collection systems so common nowadays, I'm not sure where to go - but I might start with another carver.



All the best,


SJS

 
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