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Ducker identifications and other questions

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Ducker identifications and other questions
1. So I've searched online and from what I can tell it is a first model year boat, which makes it a 1947?

2. I'm a little perplexed about the motor mount whether or not that is an original piece?

3.There's about four layers of paint flaking off but quite a bit of aluminum on the bottom. Repaint? Leave?

4. Is the load capacity of 300lbs pretty strict? Myself and 1 lab will not leave much room.

5. There are three holes opposite end of the boat on the top deck? Assuming those shoukdnts be there




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Re: Ducker identifications and other questions In reply to
Do you know anyone who does media (corn cob, walnut husks, whatever) blasting for deck and cabin restoration? That is the route I would go on the surface cleaning. Yes, that looks like an aftermarket motor mount, and the holes need to be filled.
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Re: Ducker identifications and other questions In reply to
Great boat. Looks like you have a fun project on your hands. I second the bead blasting, effective yet gentle to the aluminium. With that many layers of paint I don't think repainting would effect the value if that was your question.
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Re: Ducker identifications and other questions In reply to
I purchased an old Ducker a few years back that was in worse shape than this one - it was really bad.

I would say the decision to leave it or repaint it is up to you. If you are going to use it to hunt, I would repaint it. If you are going to repaint it, there is no need to media blast it IMO. I would sand off the flaking paint with a DA sander and then repaint. No need to get back down to the bare aluminum. If you are planning to restore it an sell it, you may want to take it all the way down to the metal and repaint it. Either way, repainting it will never allow you to say "original" but the shape it is in, and the fact it has already been repainted, it won't make a difference in the selling price.

I ought mine for $400, spent a lot of time and effort getting it to look real nice, and then sold it for $1000. A typical Ducker in my area (MN) that was original and in great shape would be advertised for $2000. Don't know if they ever sold at that price but this is what was being asked.

For the holes, I would put tape on the bottom side and fill with epoxy. Sand and blend filled hole with top of the deck. Remove tape. I had similar holes and I went two routes - filled a couple with aluminum and a couple with the method I described. The adhesive filled holes turned out much better.

Mark
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Re: Ducker identifications and other questions In reply to
I do like the idea of bead blasting, but as Mark points out below it may not be worth it since it isn't an entire restoration boat but rather a personal one for me to hunt from. Thanks for the motor mount, I though it was aftermarket, not sure if i'll keep it or not. I'm leaning towards not mainly due to weight concerns with a battery.

RLLigman wrote:
Do you know anyone who does media (corn cob, walnut husks, whatever) blasting for deck and cabin restoration? That is the route I would go on the surface cleaning. Yes, that looks like an aftermarket motor mount, and the holes need to be filled.



Yes this fun project has been in my hands for a couple years but I am finally going to tackle it this year hopefully! at least enough to get it floating, maybe not completely built up.


zane Every wrote:
Great boat. Looks like you have a fun project on your hands. I second the bead blasting, effective yet gentle to the aluminium. With that many layers of paint I don't think repainting would effect the value if that was your question.



Mark, yes my plans are to hunt out of it, both for ducks and I might possibly use it for access for deer hunting areas. Obviously weight is a concern with that on packout. I paid $200 for this one from the Grandson of the original owner. As far as the holes, you tig welded a few but liked the epoxy better? I have a buddy who does hot rod restoration, I thought he might be able to fill a few holes for me really easily and make it look good again.


Mark W wrote:
I purchased an old Ducker a few years back that was in worse shape than this one - it was really bad.

I would say the decision to leave it or repaint it is up to you. If you are going to use it to hunt, I would repaint it. If you are going to repaint it, there is no need to media blast it IMO. I would sand off the flaking paint with a DA sander and then repaint. No need to get back down to the bare aluminum. If you are planning to restore it an sell it, you may want to take it all the way down to the metal and repaint it. Either way, repainting it will never allow you to say "original" but the shape it is in, and the fact it has already been repainted, it won't make a difference in the selling price.

I ought mine for $400, spent a lot of time and effort getting it to look real nice, and then sold it for $1000. A typical Ducker in my area (MN) that was original and in great shape would be advertised for $2000. Don't know if they ever sold at that price but this is what was being asked.

For the holes, I would put tape on the bottom side and fill with epoxy. Sand and blend filled hole with top of the deck. Remove tape. I had similar holes and I went two routes - filled a couple with aluminum and a couple with the method I described. The adhesive filled holes turned out much better.

Mark

Last edited by:

Kyle Hauck: Mar 28, 2019, 8:21 AM
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Re: Ducker identifications and other questions In reply to
The filling the holes with epoxy was easier for me for a couple of reasons. I have no welding skills and had to bring it to someone to fill a couple of holes. This involved bringing the boat to the location, leaving it there for a week, driving back to picked it up and then grinding away on the fill to make it flush. Couldn't quite get it right so I had to fill with filler and sand smooth. Cost me $80 for the welding. To fill with epoxy, I had everything right there with me, could do it all by myself and it took less time and gave as good as, or better results than welding the holes.

If you have a buddy who can weld for you, that might be the easiest way for you to go. I should have been clearer.

Mark