They (Clark brothers) used a Cabot's semi-transparent stain to apply the camouflage patterns on their blinds. Someone on here with the specific newsletter Dean authored in-hand may actually be able to provide you the color numbers, or contact Tom Olsen and ask him what they are currently using. The new blinds use 1000D Cordura mil-spec in Tan 499 with a very heavy urethane double coat I was able to steer Tom to; better quality material and heavier, with the added benefit of lower acquisition cost per his statement. Nice folks
These interior pics show the Parker' Marsh Grass paint I rolled on in the interior of the boat against the contrasting tan Tuff-Coat heavy grit applied to the work deck. You will note the tape is still in place from the applications (2) over their base coat of primer. As I mentioned in our phone conversations, the primer "fish-eyes" on initial contact with the application surface, so just keep rolling it back out to a uniform coating and it will eventually lay down. As I said, Wearlon's Wetlander behaves the same way as well, which can be more than a little vexing, since you are working to apply it on the hull contact area with the boat up on blocks, while laying on your back. I get mildly nauseated in that position, so I am not real keen on extending the duration of time I have to spend in that position. If you go the Wearlon route, with that 60hp Suzuki on the transom, you may experience some sketchy side-slipping in turns, particularly on flat water. The jack plate may enable you to set the motor to "dig" a bit deeper and offset this. Dry, that boat should get up and nearly fly!
This is the earth yellow Rapco spray I mentioned. All other flat tans I have tried over the years are too flesh toned or far too pink.
After our conversation on your problems with your Sea Class electrical panel shorting-out via saltwater dripping on it. I am going to paint all my connections on the back of the panel with liquid electrical tape to protect them from condensation...
I opted for the tan Tuff-Coat so that the sun wouldn't heat the work deck up to the point of burning bare feet. I assume the Easter Shore is warmer than summers here...
View attachment 013.JPGView attachment DSC00375.JPGView attachment 001.JPGView attachment 002.JPG
The first pic illustrates the blind color difference, original versus the tan 499. I used the extra aluminum pipe from the rain roof set-up from the old blind and picked-up another set of connectors via a canvas shop order here; cut a section and then Karen and I made a pattern to sew-up the spray shield, which I use fishing the boat on Lake Superior. The second pic is the boarding ladder I fabricated from 2" PVC filled with tire balance weights. Originally I ran traction strips in the splash well as the step-in spot, but often I just step on a section of the transom adjacent the motor, which also has a traction strip mounted. Steve is shorter and drops down on his right knee on a non-skid and steps on the coaming edge to get in. With those vertical stantion pipes since via the thumbscrews and the blind tubing reinforcement, you can steady yourself by dropping one or both hands on the blind as you step in.
The other things we discussed: cargo nets fore and aft to keep gear in place. The rear net is actually a bag from our old 4 Runner cargo area. I used the same metal hammock support clips that the decoy curtains employ to mount these; ordered from Hamilton Marine.
As I said in that PM, Sea Dog makes solid brass horn cleats like the ones you already have, fore and aft, if you want to mount any mid-ships for additional anchoring options. Use substantial area and thickness backing plates which you can make from the Starboard scraps you have access to.
You also can see where I installed the hard rubber clips we discussed on the underside of the coaming, to store my boat hook, bungee cord loops for the push-pole, and the color contrast of the tan Tuff-Coat versus Parker's Marsh Grass. One thing I didn't think to mention is that Lock, Stock and Barrel MAY be able to supply you with a better paint color match, closer to the original gel-coat color, since you are obligated to paint the boat. I don't know whether spraying the boat down with a couple of cans of adhesion promoter will benefit the application of Parkers of Lou's Flat Marine Enamel (FME). I did this on my TDB-14 and the paint held-up really well. Lou may be able to recommend a specific roller to generate the pebble finish you want on the boat as well as "coach" you on application techniques far better than I can.
These interior pics show the Parker' Marsh Grass paint I rolled on in the interior of the boat against the contrasting tan Tuff-Coat heavy grit applied to the work deck. You will note the tape is still in place from the applications (2) over their base coat of primer. As I mentioned in our phone conversations, the primer "fish-eyes" on initial contact with the application surface, so just keep rolling it back out to a uniform coating and it will eventually lay down. As I said, Wearlon's Wetlander behaves the same way as well, which can be more than a little vexing, since you are working to apply it on the hull contact area with the boat up on blocks, while laying on your back. I get mildly nauseated in that position, so I am not real keen on extending the duration of time I have to spend in that position. If you go the Wearlon route, with that 60hp Suzuki on the transom, you may experience some sketchy side-slipping in turns, particularly on flat water. The jack plate may enable you to set the motor to "dig" a bit deeper and offset this. Dry, that boat should get up and nearly fly!
This is the earth yellow Rapco spray I mentioned. All other flat tans I have tried over the years are too flesh toned or far too pink.
After our conversation on your problems with your Sea Class electrical panel shorting-out via saltwater dripping on it. I am going to paint all my connections on the back of the panel with liquid electrical tape to protect them from condensation...
I opted for the tan Tuff-Coat so that the sun wouldn't heat the work deck up to the point of burning bare feet. I assume the Easter Shore is warmer than summers here...
View attachment 013.JPGView attachment DSC00375.JPGView attachment 001.JPGView attachment 002.JPG
The first pic illustrates the blind color difference, original versus the tan 499. I used the extra aluminum pipe from the rain roof set-up from the old blind and picked-up another set of connectors via a canvas shop order here; cut a section and then Karen and I made a pattern to sew-up the spray shield, which I use fishing the boat on Lake Superior. The second pic is the boarding ladder I fabricated from 2" PVC filled with tire balance weights. Originally I ran traction strips in the splash well as the step-in spot, but often I just step on a section of the transom adjacent the motor, which also has a traction strip mounted. Steve is shorter and drops down on his right knee on a non-skid and steps on the coaming edge to get in. With those vertical stantion pipes since via the thumbscrews and the blind tubing reinforcement, you can steady yourself by dropping one or both hands on the blind as you step in.
The other things we discussed: cargo nets fore and aft to keep gear in place. The rear net is actually a bag from our old 4 Runner cargo area. I used the same metal hammock support clips that the decoy curtains employ to mount these; ordered from Hamilton Marine.
As I said in that PM, Sea Dog makes solid brass horn cleats like the ones you already have, fore and aft, if you want to mount any mid-ships for additional anchoring options. Use substantial area and thickness backing plates which you can make from the Starboard scraps you have access to.
You also can see where I installed the hard rubber clips we discussed on the underside of the coaming, to store my boat hook, bungee cord loops for the push-pole, and the color contrast of the tan Tuff-Coat versus Parker's Marsh Grass. One thing I didn't think to mention is that Lock, Stock and Barrel MAY be able to supply you with a better paint color match, closer to the original gel-coat color, since you are obligated to paint the boat. I don't know whether spraying the boat down with a couple of cans of adhesion promoter will benefit the application of Parkers of Lou's Flat Marine Enamel (FME). I did this on my TDB-14 and the paint held-up really well. Lou may be able to recommend a specific roller to generate the pebble finish you want on the boat as well as "coach" you on application techniques far better than I can.
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