Garvey style sneak box

Josh Schwenger

Active member
So when looking on the internet i saw a small 10 foot sneakbox a buy had listed for $175 dollars. I inquired about it he told me he had it listed for a year and no one had even talked to him about it and if i can come get it he would make me a good deal. I went over and the transom was rotten next to the motor board and it was saturated with water. The guy and I were talking and he said i just want it gone how about $60 bucks? So on the trailer it went and when i got home i started to repair it cutting out the transom. The boat had old registration stickers but no numbers except some on one of this inside frames. I used a sponge and got the water out and put fans in it for three days to dry it out. I cut the transom out not sure if I'm going to reinstall a motor board or not i don't have paperwork for this boat and in NJ it seems difficult to get. View attachment IMG_6823.JPGView attachment IMG_6828.JPGView attachment IMG_6840.JPGView attachment IMG_6829.JPGView attachment IMG_6844.JPG
 
I know that in some states your salvaging the boat with a major repair could qualify it as a homemade boat. You would need a bill of sale and pictures of it as it was when you acquired it. Find out what who inspects/certifies homemade boats in N J, in R I Conservation officers are sometimes do this job. Then you need a list of the materials used and their cost, (which you need to pay taxes on). and some inspections of the boat, As long as the motor has a paper trail--previously registered, or proof that you bought it and paid tax on it-- you should be able to register it; Naturally check this out in advance before you do any more work on it. In R I they give you a registration and a boat I D number which you have a month to put on the boat and send them a picture of the boat with the I D # on it. I know all states have their own way but it may be able to be done! Good luck! There a number of forms to fill out so its best to do the last steps in person where the boat registration are done. I'd get the forms first as some might need notarization!
 
It?s not too hard. Save your receipt ms for repair and take it to NJSP Bivalve? barracks for inspection. I?ve done it many times
 
That is a really cool looking boat. I like the lines quite a bit. I hope you take plenty of restoration pictures for us to see. Nice Powermatic bandsaw too.

Eric
 
Thanks Eric that bandsaw was gift from my brother I will try to take some pictures I think my plan is to use that boat as a big pond box. Basically tow the boat to the tide pond with my bigger boat and then push pole into the pond to hunt calling over to the state today to get information on a rebuilt title.
 
There has to be someone in your circle who still has a reg for a bygone wooden garvey, dory, skiff. One case of beer is going price for an old reg around here, stamp those numbers onto your new hull and whamo.......you're good to go.
Currently my 16' fiberglass Dory is registered as a 14' wooden garvey but the numbers match and 17 years later, I've yet to be stopped, and that's in NY.......
 
Josh~


Nice find! Your idea of using it as a "tow-behind" pond box was just what I was thinking. A 10-footer is a tad small for covering lots of ground by motor (except on truly protected waters). And, you'll save all the weight and expense of the engine + fuel tanks, nav lights, etc. Just need a nice pair of oars and a small anchor - and I would sew up a canvas cockpit cover to keep her dry in transit.



Looks like the transom came off nice and clean. I look forward to your restoration.


All the best,


SJS

 
I covered the inside back with epoxy resin and sanded and bonded the bottom to the stringers. I made a bulkhead and set it 3/4 of a inch back from the transom glued that in with wood flour and epoxy so when I installed the transom i had something to glue against I wouldn't be able to get inside the boat to make a filet on the inside of the transom (and do i want to try) so i made it on the bulkhead and bonded the transom to it with wood flour epoxy glue. I know I used a Fir plywood but i had it on hand and with 60 dollars in the boat so far a sheet of 3/4 Marine plywood cost twice what the boat cost me. When I flipped it over the brass runners were nice to find. The attachment for the grinder is amazing I'm showing a picture of it contains 85% of the dust if not more I have it hooked to my shop vac with a 2 micron bag in the vacuum and a hepa filter cartridge in the vac. If you sand carefully it would contain almost 100% but I'm not patient enough. View attachment IMG_0025.JPGView attachment IMG_0034.JPGView attachment IMG_0022.JPGView attachment IMG_0023.JPGView attachment IMG_0084.JPG

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Question to all on our Forum,
Is $60 for a sneak box the best deal anyone here has ever had on a sneak box type boat.

Geez! Even MY wife might go along with ANOTHER BOAT for $60.

Larry
 
Only problem is those $60 boats can turn into $500 boats once we get ahold of them... That's the part wife doesn,t need to know about!
 
Yeah Roy I agree lets not tell her. So this boat came with Oars but they are kinda rough. Should I make new oars? Buy new oars? I looked briefly and it seems I'm going to spend like 80 dollars on Oars does this seem correct? I will have some pictures soon. One more question I sanded the entire top of the hull in preparation for paint. Should I prime the whole boat before applying parkers and if so should it be an oil based primer? I looked online to get something directly from Parkers but wasn't sure if anyone had a recommendation on something I can just buy at a hardware store or amazon in. I was looking at the Rustoleum boat wood and fiberglass primer.
 
Are the oars split or rotten? Refinish if they,ll see limited use and will clean up nicely. I would think you could pick up some caviness oars off ebay cheaper than that. The synthetic ones they make are pretty bullet proof and even come in o.d. green. Knutsons use to carry those also. As with any paint project the life of finished product is in the prep. Not seeing your current finish in detail I would suggest sand , prime. Paint with FME. If you think you,ll get several years from hull kind of determines, at least to me ,whether to splurge on the parkers or just get some exterior oil base mixed up at lowes, etc. Might want to consider a push pole if the areas you hunt are shallow enough for its use. I,ve found those little boxes pole rather easily once you find your balance point.
 
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Good morning, Josh~


To my eye, those look like Ash - the most durable traditional oars.


Were they mine, I would:


1. Repair the one blade end with an Ash "dutchman" (with a long aspect ratio).


2. Sand the oars with 100-grit.


3. Seal lowest 3 inches of blades with epoxy thickened with graphite powder.


4. Seal rest of oars with Linseed Oil - 2 or 3 times over the summer.


5. Paint entire oar with duckboat paint (2 coats).


6. Replace the rubber "leathers" - maybe even with leather!


Nice job on those stringer scarphs!



All the best,


SJS

 
From your photo the oars don?t seem to be a ?pair?. If you are not planning on rowing much I would repair them as Steve said otherwise you?d be better off with a new set.
 
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