The old girl has rot

Z

zane Every

Well-known member
Reading through an earlier post it seems like there may be a pandemic involving rotten transoms. My glass over cedar BBSB has been needing some attention. It was traded back and forth over the past several years and the last owner did not address an issue with the fiberglass. It was a split in the seem where the deck meets the transom. As a result the wood has started to rot. I cut out the bad sections of the rear deck, easy enough to fix. However, the top portion of the transom has rot also.

My question to the brain trust here at the forum. Do I need to replace the entire transom or do you think it possible to cut and epoxy/ fasten a patch? The transom is one inch thick cedar. I was thinking it might be possible to cut out a section and replace, most likely with some reinforcement on the inside.

The hole where the arrow is pointing is the top right bolt hole for the motor board.

I do run a 15hp 2 cycle Merc on it.



View attachment Rotten transom1.jpgView attachment rotten transom 2.jpgView attachment Rotten transom3.jpg
 
It depends on the ends of the planks. If the planks are sound then your idea would be fine. Either use biscuits or screws and epoxy and I would add a re-enforcing strip along the inside face of the transom of the joint.

If the plank ends are bad trim them to shorten the boat and make a new transom. There were many duck boats that were repaired this way in the past.
 
I would epoxy a piece of 3/4 marine ply to the entire inside essentially beefing transom up 3/4 and glass it in. Patch the exterior and glass over that.
 
I'm with Tom. Unless there was a significant disadvantage, I would cut the transom off and install a new transom, affixing it to all good plank ends. Boat ends up 2 inches shorter.
 
When you put the new transom in angle it 3" in on the bottom and you will not need WEDGES on the bottom. Take the bad planks out to the cockpit and replace with new.
Phil
Can you post a picture of the whole boat ?
 
This is what I have. Already took off oarlocks, cleats motor board etc. I was told the boat was made by a guy named Chadwick? Not sure of the spelling. It does have a hull number tag. But, will have to post it later when I get home.
So, replacing the transom sounds like the way to go. Any suggestions about the wood to replace with. Mahogany was suggested, what about white oak , marine ply or something else. Trying to be a little economical.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I never would have thought of removing the transom that way. Good idea!


View attachment 20190811_154449.jpgView attachment 20190811_154429.jpgView attachment 20190811_154405.jpg
 
Did you read the PM I sent you last week?
Best of look with the repair it looks like a real nice sneak box.
Phil
 
Phil,
Yes I did, thank you. That is for a different sneak box. This particular one is a planning hull. Moves out nice and smooth with a 15hp.
 
Steve,
Looks just like her. The spray skirt was brittle when I got her so took it off, but looked spot on to the one in the book. Debating if I will put on a similar one or a dodger. The oar locks, lines and decoy rack look the same. Roomy little craft. Love sitting in her, but hard to stay awake. Five minutes later I'm head down dreaming of whistling wings and jet like teal tearing up the dawn.

Could not resist the book and bought a copy on Ebay for $13.00. Thank You[smile].

Zane
 
So....the only mahogany I can find is African at 5.55 a BF, not too bad a price. I know it is not as dense as other mahogany and have read it can be brittle. Is the African suitable for the transom? Also looked for Cedar or cypress, but not available locally. What about Doug Fir ? Just a thought.
 
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