Delving into the world of Decoy Carving

Kyle Hauck

Kyle Hauck

Member
Well, I've decided to finally do it. I'm not busy enough as it is, so I figured what the heck. I've been pouring over things I could find on this website as well as YouTube videos, articles, and other forum posts.

Just wondering if any of the artists of this website might lend me some helpful hints for a beginner.

I plan to chase down a tundra swan this fall out of my ducker so the goal is to build 2-5 floater decoys.

So far I leaning towards a cork decoy.

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
 
I?d do stretches canvas or slats. You?ll have to take out a second mortgage for all that cork. Never mind how much they?ll weigh.
 

Kyle,

The very talented folks here will provide you all the help that you ask, and require.


I must say you are bitin' off a big chunk for yer first project, Tundra Swans.

IMO you need no more than two Swan decoys, some coots, and ducks to draw Swans using yer ducker.


If you prefer cork use the dark, as it is much lighter than the tan (unless hollowed). A cedar, white pine, or mahogany bottom board.

Canvas over wire, or slats work very well (as already suggested), but are not as easy to create as they look, especially slat decoys.

I suggest that you start with some duck, or goose decoys, and then the Swans.


Just remember all the weight that you put above the bottom board/waterline is crucial, and must be at a minimum.

Unless you want a keel, and ballast weight that is a major counter balance, and a PITA.

The neck and head of your Swan should be at least two, if not three, pieces of very well joined , cedar, or white pine. Hollowing the neck and head is not out of the question.


Most important is that you use quality materials for the entire project, from start to finish.


VP





View attachment gunning swans 3 edit.jpg
 
Another option is Balsa with cedar head and neck. I have made two this way and one hollow cork. The balsa was the way to go
 
Good morning, Kyle~


Lots of good advice already!


Here are some of my carving tutorials - for wooden decoys. The first one deals with the head - which you'll need regardless of which technology you use for a body.



https://stevenjaysanford.com/carving-a-mallard-head-tutorial/



https://stevenjaysanford.com/carving-a-mallard-body-tutorial/


Black cork, balsa, hollow cedar, canvas are all good options. I would probably use canvas for such a large bird - and for its tradition - but I might begin with foam. Even if you make a foam bird as a prototype - a model for later bodies - it will help you work out patterns and shapes before you jump into more expensive/intensive materials. With some insulation board, some Titebond III, a rasp and some 80-grit sandpaper, you can make your first body rather quickly. The head profile can be sawn from plywood - with foam glued on port and starboard for thickness. Once you make a prototype you like you can move up to more traditional "technologies".



The "foamer" in this tutorial used 2-inch insulation board (closed cell polyurethane - not Styrofoam). I coated it with epoxy + sawdust but found it to be insufficiently tough in use. So, I would wrap such future bodies with the tried-and-true burlap + tile mastic to improve durability.



https://stevenjaysanford.com/foamer-decoy-tutorial-a-black-and-a-mallard/


Here is my half-size Tundra Swan: - hollow White Pine:


View attachment Tundra Swan.JPG



Two other thoughts:


1. Carving the head is the toughest part and takes the most time. It sure helps if you've got a mentor nearby....




View attachment IMG_0088.JPG




2. I have plenty of decoy painting tutorials on my site - but this species hardly needs one. Some Rustoleum Flat White, a bit of Flat Black and just a brush-full of pale Yellow for the lores.....


3. Google Images is a great source for making patterns - especially photos that show waterfowl on the water in true profile. Just be aware that there are lots of misIDs - especially for birds.


4. When learning to carve, it helps to have a good model in front of you. 3D is much more helpful than 2D. An old Herter's Model 92 Canada Goose decoy would be good to study. Here's one (my Dad's from the 1960s) in the midst of rehab. I added a tail insert.



View attachment WS - Herters 92 - Recarved + Tail Insert.jpg





I hope you enjoy this expedition - and don't hesitate to seek help!



SJS










 

Tim,

When ya made the Swan decoys from balsa.

Did you coat them with West System, for a very thin hard shell to prevent damage while transporting?

I have done that with all the balsa duck decoys I have made, and it works very well, but is a PITA.

Balsa is a good option, if ya can find it in the size that is needed, and cobbled together.


If you have photos of the balsa Swans we sure would like to see them. Cuz you make very functional, sturdy, stylish decoys


VP
 
Such a great amount of information to begin with! I do like the idea of starting with a foam body just to practice with. I suppose that is like whittling soap which I did when I was just a young boy with a new knife in hand.

I'm not a huge fan of the looks of canvas covered decoy but I understand the weight of a full cork decoy could be quite heavy.
 
I see your receiving lots of good info on carving your first decoys which is great. Just a thought but in the small confines of a ducker have you considered using swan y boards? Collapse flat and could be stowed easily in that small rig. The birds will decoy to them just fine. And would also give you your side profile decoy pattern once drawn out. Two birds with one stone so to speak!
 
Tim, what was you balsa source? What did you use as a sealer? I have been contemplating a half dozen Canada goose floaters. I was considering cork, but balsa sounds like a better option. I have a little over a gallon of Valspar's val-oil left...good choice, for this effort as a sealer, or would recommend something else?
 
Kyle,

Sounds like a fun project. There has been lots of great info and I know you will get lots of help here on the site. Sometimes it helps to have someone in person to help you so you might see if there is a wood carving club somewhere near you. The carving club here in Tallahassee has lots of really talented carvers that are happy to help. Admittedly there are people that do just birds or just caricatures or just cottonwood bark or just.... but the people in the club are always very happy to help teach. That was true for the club I was in when I was in Jacksonville. Rarely have I run into someone who wasn't happy to try to help a newbie out.

Just a thought...

Dani
 
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Vince, I should have read this thread all the way through. Hadn't even thought of epoxy. Jamestown Distributors has a low viscosity penetrating epoxy formulation they market against Git-Rot that is sold at a better price point than West System's epoxies. I am in the process of removing the fiberglass laminate shell from the underside of the starboard stern quarter gunnel panel on a 1994 Boston Whaler whose marine plywood core panel for the six foot piece is nearly entirely waterlogged and rotten. After purchasing the boat I decided to replace the German stern mast light two owners earlier had installed over the Perko units that were OEM on these. The lense bezel of this light is blacked-out for a 15-20 degree arc so the helmsman isn't blinded by the light's intensity when looking back that way. ZERO sealer was applied to the base and one of the Lee in-deck rod holders that was replaced, water has intruded throughout all but two sections of the panel, and the rot is extensive. I was able to cut it out by using a bread knife to cut through the Whaler bond (3M 5200 like elastomer adhesive), after extensive conversations with BW's staff.
 
Brandon Yuchaz (sp.?0 carved a set of swans for a past ODCCA show. PM him and see if he has his patterns still...
 

RL,

I purchase the West System, and Smith's Custom Wood Epoxy Sealer, from Jamestown Dist.

In the past I purchased the Smiths directly from Smiths, or from my buddy that has a boatworks.

Since I only use West System on decoys (not boats), its lasts a longtime, and is worth the money for my needs. I realize buying a large quantity would be costly.


Using micro balloons & West System creates a very study shell over balsa. The best that I have used.

Few a few years at the ODCCA Westlake show, a vendor had large amounts of balsa, in various sizes. I should have purchased more than I did, as the vendor is no longer in business.

I have just enough left for a good carry in, or marsh boat rig of ducks, and small geese.

I hesitate to use it, but being a few months from 70, what the heck am I saving it for? DUH!


Added note -

Balsa was always a PITA for me to carve with my many knives. It was always mostly rasping.

Then a very good friend gave me a custom made, from LA, Tupelo Carving Knife, and it works wonders on balsa, and saves lots of time.



VP
 
Vince~


No question epoxy gives the toughest shell on Balsa. Not wanting to use such a "modern" product y on my old (1950s and 60s) Wildfowlers, though, I have been using Spar Varnish as a sealer coat - then priming with flat oils. Much tougher than the original - which was just latex paint, I believe. Once I have sanded my Wildfowlers, I cannot even lay out the paint patterns with #2 pencil - because it cuts a groove. I use felt pens instead. The Spar Varnish penetrates fairly well and leaves a hard skin that can be lightly sanded (150-grit) before I brush on the oil primers.



All the best,


SJS

 
Steve, as a woodworker, have you ever compared real Tung oil versus spar varnish on balsa? A few million Chinese junks still afloat can't be wrong!!!
 
The stuff that I used on carousel horses to save dry rot components is by far the best available ----" smithandcompany.org/CPES/ ". I tried everything else and nothing compares. It was designed for wooden boat restoration.

Joe
 

Joe,

I agree with you 100%, Smiths is the best!!!

As I've stated before.

When I had issues with wood sap bleeding, other wood issues, etc., for decoy use, my buddy at the boatworks recommended SMITHS.

No other product IMO can touch it.

Plus it creates a chemical bond with oil paint that is superior in all ways, as far as I'm concerned.

I also use it to seal the wood of wine case lids, prior to gessoing, and then oil painting. A little goes a long way.


If you have photos of the carousel horses please post them.

The Butler Museum of American Art, in Youngstown, Ohio has a fine collection of them, and other outstanding wood carvings.

I would just look and study them, and shake my head. The craftsmanship and paint are so outstanding.


Best regards
Vince
 
RL~


Hmmmm..... I use Tung Oil all the time on furniture. I had never heard of marine applications for it.



I will assign the R&D staff here at Pencil Brook Boatworks to investigate and report results to me....


All the best,


SJS

 
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