Stainless steel hardware for Boat repair?

Bob Reitmeyer

Active member
I'm looking to pull my supplies together for the sneakbox I'm restoring. Are there any concerns on using stainless steel inside the hull? I'm going to be sistering some ribs (5/4 cedar) with 5/4 cedar and thru bolting them with 3" bolts. My preference was bronze, but a lot of suppliers are closed. I have a supply of 2" bronze bolts, but that requires me to thin the sistering wood to about 1/2 inch. Thanks in advance.

Bob
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Bob

For bronze hardware I've always used Jamestown Distributors, Hamilton Marine, and Boltdepot. Did you try these?

As for Stainless I saw some debate years ago about it deteriorating in when not in the presence of oxygen but wood contains oxygen so even sealed in epoxy it has a source.I doubt you'd ever have a problem with stainless if you go that route.

Eric
 
Thanks Eric. I was going to purchase from Fawcett Boat Supplies in Maryland, but they're closed until further notice. I have checked Jamestown, but not the other two.
 
Bob~


I used to use bronze when I could afford it. When I began buying from Jamestown Dist. a box of bronze screws mail-ordered cost about the same as galvanized bought in a local hardware store. Nowadays, my local Aubuchon has a great selection of s/s fasteners as very reasonable prices.



As most gunning boats are sheathed in 'glass and so the wood does not get saturated as it would in a traditionally planked and caulked hull, I reason that the risk of corrosion is low. I will be using s/s on theCedar Sneakbox I will be retoring later this Spring.



I wish I could get good bronze hardware more readily. Even putting the price aside, the selection is not what it once was. Simple open-base bronze cleats are no longer easy to find.


I look forward to your restoration.


SJS





 
Thanks for your opinion Steve and I am looking forward to seeing your completed restoration also. I was able to save for re-use many of the bronze screws because I do want it as original as possible, but I also want to strengthen the hull.
 
Steve Sanford said:
Simple open-base bronze cleats are no longer easy to find.

For that very reason when it was determined Jeff's Black Brant II was too far gone to restore I removed all the bronze from it, including three very nice bronze cleats that Jeff told me were no longer available. One went on my Broadbill, the other two will go on the next boat I build, likely a Cackler.

Eric
 
Bob Reitmeyer said:
Are there any concerns on using stainless steel inside the hull?

Bob

Bob,
Just like a lot of materials, all stainless steel is not the same "recipe". The more common stainless fasteners are "18-8" and "316". Around my area, Fleet Farm type stores are the cheapest source for stainless fasteners. Those fasteners will most likely be 18-8 as it is less expensive to produce than the 316 variety. McMaster Carr carries both choices and can be ordered online.

Some info;
18-8 stainless steel pan head screws have good chemical resistance and may be mildly magnetic. Length is measured from under the head.
Passivated stainless steel screws provide added protection against oxidation and corrosion.
Chrome-plated stainless steel screws have a decorative, mirror-like finish.
PTFE-coated stainless steel screws won?t stick or bind as you thread them into a hole.
Black-oxide stainless steel screws have a matte-black finish.
316 Stainless Steel
More corrosion resistant than 18-8 stainless steel screws, these button head screws have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water. They are passivated for added protection against oxidation and corrosion. Screws may be mildly magnetic.
I have used the 18-8 with good success, HOWEVER, I am not in an area where I have to deal with saltwater exposure.
[strike][/strike]Hope this helps you.
 
I've used stainless fastenings on everything for 40 years, in a salt water environment, not sure where the corrosion concern is as I never experienced it. Maybe a low grade of stainless?
Even a good hot dipped galv fastener should last a looong time, if you can even get the good stuff anymore.
 
I?m a traditional boat building type of guy so I would use bronze. Hamilton Marine is open for website orders and I believe they have a 50 cent shipping promotion going.
They also can supply 316 stainless as well many other items needed for boat building/ restoration.
 
Great explanation Dave, on the difference on the metal. If anyone has any stainless steel that is has not gone through the passivation process they can send it to me as I have access to do that for y'all. It's similar to the blueing proceed done to guns to prevent corrosion.
Can also do a similar process to aluminum called alodine if anyone needs that done.
 
Bob Reitmeyer said:
Thanks for all the great information! I?m going to check each option and go with best fit.

Bob,
I have a Fastenal store local to me and they usually have competitive pricing. Just another online or retail source for you.
 
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