Devlin scaup

Rich~


Got your PM - but thought it would be more helpful to others if we discussed your vessel with others in the conversation.


What is your principal concern with the 'glass? Is it mostly the finish ? - or are there problems with it adhering to the wood, too ?


A couple of other things that jump out at me:


1) Your thatch rails have structural knots in them - and will fail over time. Rail material needs to be clear (no knots) AND have little or not "runout" in the grain. If the grain wanders across the width of the rail too abruptly, it will likely break over time. The treated SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) you have could work if better stock. I have had good luck with treated decking - if I can cherry pick through a pile. My preference is Philippine Mahogany because I can get it locally - clear with straight grain in long lengths. It takes epoxy, varnish and paint well. Traditional choices are White Oak and White Cedar.



2) Your cockpit cover should have some crown in it to shed water. Flat covers will pool water and can lead to failure of the 'glass.


Here's the underside of one for my own Sneakbox - note the radius on the upper profile of each frame.


View attachment Cover 15.jpg





3) Spray dodger should be easy enough to sew up. I prefer webbing that is not Black. I use a Tan that does not contrast with the Salt Hay. Here's one I made for a South Bay Duckboat in 2016.



View attachment Z 01.JPG





Hope this helps!


SJS


 
Thanks and makes sense for lots of input. The glass looks ugly ,for the most part it all adhered well just couple of spots by the cockpit combing. The grass rails were a late summer throw on so i could use the boat this past season i have mahogany that i picked up over the winter to replace them, the cockpit cover was just another quick response to the winter had plans of making a fiberglass cover or having a boat shop make a snap cock pit cover that would have a pole in the center. I did a bunch of research after posting about the dodger. I just have no way to sew something like that. So i guess what i was looking for was a little help or direction to get the glass smoothed out to make a better looking finish ,and to make sure it?s seaworthy enough to take in the bay and help with the dodger. Thanks for the speedy response
 
Dave,

The dodger looks great. What material did you use? A soft dodger has to be the way to go for a boat of that size; I built a hard cover for my BB2 to travel cross country, but cannot see using it to hunt. Too awkward to deal with while getting ready to hunt at O dark thirty (and best a 2-man lift). Broadbill is a different story, hard cover for it is easy one man lift and fits neatly in the truck bed. Yes, a little curve to help the water off would be a plus.


Take care,
bill




View attachment DSCN1883.JPGView attachment dsc_095.jpg
 
Rich~


Like the other gents here, I use my hard cockpit cover for off-season storage only. The rreal benefit of the hard cover is to keep vermin - rodents and stinging insects - out of the hold.


I use a canvas cover during the season - because....


1) The canvas "adjusts" to the thatch - which I like to extend over the coamings and into the cockpit - as it shrinks and swells during the season. I lash mine down - grommets on each side of the hem to 10 or so lengths of parachute cord that are tied to the thatch rails - and my push pole serves as a ridge to keep the canvas "tented" up. I tie a slipped square not in each line to pull the cover taut. I prefer it over shock cord because I do not want hooks near my waders or gunning coat.



2) The canvas folds up into a small bundle and goes right in the boat. More than once, I have used it a) for sleeping overnight in the boat and b) rigging it on the windward side so I could come home in a big beam sea relatively dry.


I like Sunbrella Marine fabric - which I typically buy from SailRite. For colors, I use their Tan or Tresco Birch.


For webbing, I have used https://www.strapworks.com/Flat_Nylon_Webbing_p/mfnw1.htm I use 1-inch wide nylon on dodgers and motor covers so I can lash bundles of Salt Hay to it.


Hope this helps!


SJS





 
Bill Burruss said:
Dave,

The dodger looks great. What material did you use?

Take care,
bill
Click to expand...

Bill, I had a local shop make that. Probably about the 4th or 5th one he has made (for me) for different boats I've owned. Off the top of my head, I can't remember the material he uses. Send him a message or give him a call, real friendly fella.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/Custom-Covers-by-Wersinger-Satterlee-154471754590044/about/?ref=page_internal
 
Good morning, Rich~


I never have responded re your original question about your 'glass.


As the problem seems to be primarily cosmetic, the solution is lots of very careful grinding and sanding - with filling and fairing as needed.


My usual tools for such a job would be a disc sander and an orbital sander. I would work outside and with a dust mask.



You might start with the orbital because they have a lower risk of doing damage. Goal is to level the skin on the boat without going through it to bare wood. I would try 60-grit but would go to 40-grit if needed. I would work back down to 80-grit.



If no filling or re-glassing is needed, I would roll on another 2 layers of epoxy resin as a sealing coat.



After washing with warm soapy water to remove any "amine blush" (which prevents good paint adhesion) I would sand the cured epoxy with 100- or 120-grit. Then roll on 3 coats of whatever duckboat paint you are using.


If you have to fill, I like the Fairing Compound by US Composites: http://www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html It's a mix of phenolic microballoons (for light weight and ease of sanding) and fumed silica (aka Cabosil - to prevent sag) and other products. I'd apply with a squeegee. Sand smooth and level after full cure.



If you need another layer of 'glass, I would use 6 or 7.5 ounce cloth. Saturate with foam roller or brush. Apply second coat to fill the weave when the epoxy is still tacky but not fully cured.


This job is basically body shop work. So, I'd begin is a small area that's easy to get to - and develop the technique.


Hope this helps!


SJS


 
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