South Bay motor board question

B Garman

B Garman

Member
Picked up a project south bay back in February. I am doing some cockpit mods and general rehab work that most of these boats need.
I removed the motorboard that was on it and it was not original. Before making a new one I wanted to see if anyone has the original height specs. This one 16 1/2" total length.
I have searched some of the older posts from Steve Sanfords south bay mods and rehabs (lot of good info) but did not see the motorboard specs.

Thanks
Brian
 
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I have seen my share of Southbays. When I was rebuilding mind I asked the same question only to find out they were made different over the years.
Close but different in addition the holes were sometimes in different locations.
The Question you may want to ask is what is the finished height above the deck?
I set mine at 4 1/4'' above the deck.
I have the bottom of the board 1'' above the bottom of the hull.
The board is 15 1/2''

Others who have Southbays please post the height of the board above the deck.
 
Thanks Bill, This one I have is/was set up 5 3/4 above the deck. Seemed to be high to me based on the outboard and cavitation plate on the outboards I have. 15hp Johnson and a 25hp Merc will most likely run the 15 for weight as this will be a skinny water boat.
Will see what some other post on there setup.

Rossja I have been following your thread also some good info. I have a piece of black cherry I plan to use for the new MB.
 
Good morning, Brian et al~


I wish I had a definitive answer....


Of course, the transom height - from the bottom of hull to the top of motor board - should be 15 inches (the long-time industry standard for outboard boats - until 20 and 25-inch transoms came on the scene - late 20th century?). But, every vessel has its idiosyncrasies. It seems that most of the South Bay's I have seen are closer to 16 inches. I surely wish I had had this discussion with Red Magnus (who designed and built the South Bays) back in the day.




View attachment Motor Board x - Installed aft.jpg



Bill's idea of measuring above the stern deck makes the most sense.



View attachment SSB 22 - Motor Board B.JPG



Brian & Rich~



I urge you both to install drain tubes and plugs in the transom. I did not install one here but left a spot. Plug would go in from the outside - where it is tied to the motor board. Very handy to drain the hull when the boat is trailered but still on the ramp at the end of the hunt.


Note: The "fender" on the backer board protects that gas tank from chafing against the mounting bolts.


View attachment sm 01 SSB Motor Board - backing plate.JPG



Brian~


I will be interested to see how the Black Cherry works out for you. I have never used it on the exterior of a boat but it's rot resistance has appeal. Not sure whether you should encapsulate with 3 coats of epoxy - or use a more breathable skin - like Spar Varnish + duckboat paint. Your plans?


All the best,


SJS



SJS

 
Thanks Steve, I measured my outboard 15hp johnson at 16 1/2" from mount to cavitation plate. MB will be 16" total and I will set it at 5 1/2 " above the rear deck. I will put a backer plate on the inside also, but I plan to run my fuel tank up in the bow.
The black cherry is very rot resistant, strong and doesn't check as much as regular cherry. I think it will make a good MB and it something I have on hand. I will coat it with a few coats of epoxy and paint.

This SB does not have any bulkheads or foam. I would guess and early model? Previous owner installed brass screw in drain plugs in each of the sponsons.
I plan to install a front bulkhead, but have not decided if I am going to install the rear bulkhead. I like having that extra storage space/length inside. If I do install the rear bulkhead I will move the drain plug to the transom.
 
Brian~


All sounds good!


The rear sponson chambers, of course, would provide level flotation if swamped. Although I never worried about such things when a younger man, I now appreciate their value. I suppose my ideal is now air chambers with inspection plates and removable foam pieces - so access and maintenance remain possible.


Note: If you put your fuel tank up forward, you could now make a storage tray for beneath the stern deck. Makes access to everything you store there much easier.


View attachment Interior 02.JPG



It is not fastened in place - just slides in and out. The whole tray can easily be removed for cleaning, sorting, etc.



View attachment Interior03.JPG



Fuel tank was held in place with cleats and shock cord. BTW: After this project, I learned that gasoline tanks were always red for safety reasons....



View attachment Interior 01.JPG



All the best,


SJS


 
I agree probably best to have the rear sponsons and extra flotation. Inspection plates are the way to go. We installed the beckson plates on all of the bulkheads on Rufus's Southbay. I just would like to know if the rear sponsons add enough flotation to keep it afloat if it was swamped? The older I get the more I think about safety also.

I like the tray Idea to help keep things organized, will add that to the list.

Brian
 
Brian wrote,
This SB does not have any bulkheads or foam. I would guess and early model? Previous owner installed brass screw in drain plugs in each of the sponsons.
I plan to install a front bulkhead, but have not decided if I am going to install the rear bulkhead. I like having that extra storage space/length inside. If I do install the rear bulkhead I will move the drain plug to the transom.[/quote][strike][/strike]
[strike][/strike]

I do not think is will be enough for level floatation. Several years ago. I spoke to one of the builders. I told him I wanted to add flotation to my SB.

He stated make sure you foam under the deck to get level Flotation.
 
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Bill~


As I suspected. Quite a bit of volume when you add up the 1 to 2 inch thickness of all that foam 'neath the decks.


Hope all is well with you and your family!


SJS

 
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