Trailer Question

Dani

Dani

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So y'all here can probably help me or give me ideas.

Here is my trailer:

i-xpz7Hvn-XL.jpg


Here is my problem:

i-H2nvzf2-XL.jpg


Now, the left to right bar has an insert that inserts into the tubing for the front to back bar, so it isn't totally screwed as far as being broken. I know I should probably just go have someone reweld the weld. But doing that doesn't fix what caused it in the first place. The canoe bars sway and the frame twists a little bit when there are canoes on the trailer. The left side is cracking as well, hasn't yet cracked all of the way through like the right side has.

What would y'all do to strengthen the trailer? To keep the swaying down? I've thought about putting in a basket/bed that is part of the frame and sits underneath the first canoe level so that I could put wet stuff in there to dry as we go down the road (though on dirt roads that might not be a good idea since then I might just have muddy stuff instead of wet stuff....but that's a problem for another time). Perhaps the basket/bed could be used to help keep the racks from swaying so badly?

Thanks a lot in advance

Dani
 
Too much torgue on the single post. Put posts on both side with cross brace across to the posts. Weld both back braces. Load is high also. If you could lower it, it would sway less. Axle further back will help.
 
Dani, you need to reduce the racking. As already suggested reduce your moment arm as much as you can but going as low as you can, then add some diagonal bracing, under the lowest cross bar. That will stiffen the rear significantly, but then the front will still be rocking back and forth, and eventually fatigue the bolts or the bracket. I would add an additional vertical back where it can be tied into the frame like in the rear. What tire pressure do you run? Your springs are likely rated for way more than you carry, and that stiffness sends shock up into the frame. I would soften the tires until they just start to bulge. Likely down around 10 to 15 PSI. If your scared, just check the temp on them while you trailering and if you find them heating up, add some air.
 
Dani

This is but one of many solutions and assumes you want to keep the trailer re-configurable to haul a boat in the normal fashion one day. If not that opens the door to more possibilities because you could add braces in areas that will not interfere with your canoes, but would interfere with a boat on bunk boards. You are going to have to take it to a welder to be repaired. A competent professional welder will know how to reinforce it.

Eric
View attachment i-xpz7Hvn-XL.jpg
 
I think what Eric suggests is half of it. I think you need the side to side racking as I tried to suggest, but I would also do as Eric shows, however, I would to an X, not parallel. it doesn't take bulky, heavy supports, some 1"x1" aluminum angle from the big box stores with a single bolt at each end and in the middle where they cross each other will be extremely rigid.
 
Dave Diefenderfer said:
I think what Eric suggests is half of it. I think you need the side to side racking as I tried to suggest, but I would also do as Eric shows, however, I would to an X, not parallel. it doesn't take bulky, heavy supports, some 1"x1" aluminum angle from the big box stores with a single bolt at each end and in the middle where they cross each other will be extremely rigid.
Click to expand...

Dave, that would be a simple weld-free solution.
 
Okay thanks guys. I think I understand what y'all mean. Physics was not my thing. The angle iron I get.

My dad bought this trailer as a kit, so it was designed to be a canoe trailer. It just wasn't the best designed one out there and I don't think my dad had me in mind taking it down long, long dirt roads.

Steve, no worries on the four canoe trailer thing. Your cartop solution would be just fine if I could manage to put a canoe or other boat on top of my vehicles without dropping it. My FJ has a busted antenna housing because I dropped one too many boats off of it in my efforts to unload a boat by myself. Usually I can do it, if it is light, but every so often a boat become unwieldy and gravity wins over my efforts to subdue it. My canoe is not light and I have never managed to figure out how to get it up onto a vehicle by myself. Well, actually not quite true. The Pimp Mobile (my 83 Ford Crown Victoria)) was nice and low to the ground and I could get the canoe up on top of the car in stages without damaging the car. But I moved onto the 4Runner after that and by then I had access to the canoe trailer if I needed to go solo. The Chevy needs roof racks still and is taller than the FJ. And honestly, since I've had access to the canoe trailer, I haven't had a great deal of incentive to figure out how to load my heavy, heavy canoe on top of a vehicle.

So, in looking for a welder, what kinds of questions do I need to ask to make sure that I have the right kind of welder and that they will do the right kind of job?
 
Dani,
1st thing to ask is "Are you qualified and willing to weld on galvanized metal?"
Many welder will not work on galvanized steel due to the toxic fumes created during the welding process.
I would also suggest the actual weld be, in addition, be reinforced with a top plate doubling the material thickness.
 
Hi Dani. I'll add my 2 cents. First thing is first. Please take it to a welder that has experience welding galvanized material. They have to grind the galvanizing off before welding. I assume the U-bolt holds the spring hanger and the cross bolt limits the travel keeping the spring from moving back?



View attachment Trailer top view.jpg

If this were my trailer I would drill through the hanger and the box tubing and thru bolt the hanger to the trailer. This was a kit that I'm familiar with. They used the u-bolt and hanger system for shipping and for the DIY'er for ease of assembly. (Like the cross bolt in front of the U-bolt).

I would have the welder add a gusset plate to the top of the box tubing like I show in the sketch. If he's worth his salt he will grind a V groove or J groove, weld and grind flat so he can place the gusset flat on the tubing welding all around the gusset plate. I would add a gusset plate on both sides of the trailer (Left and right not top and bottom). Looking at the tubing it has held up well and you should be good for a long time. You can buy spray galvanizing in an aerosol can at an auto parts store to help with rusting in the salt water. Those vertical members were never a good design the way they bolted to the tubing. As others have mentioned adding diagonal bracing will help some but with the canoe at the lowest height shown in the picture it will only be marginal. If you do not haul anything high I'd cut the verticals down some. Hope this helps and Merry Christmas.



View attachment Trailer top view 1.jpg
 
Thanks Ed. I've printed off your picture and I'll take it and show it to the welder. I will take it down in the morning and drop it off so that I can get an estimate on fixing the trailer. Not like I'll need it anytime soon since the ducks are still afraid of heading south of Dave.

Thanks again y'all!!!!!!
 
Dani said:
Thanks Ed. I've printed off your picture and I'll take it and show it to the welder. I will take it down in the morning and drop it off so that I can get an estimate on fixing the trailer. Not like I'll need it anytime soon since the ducks are still afraid of heading south of Dave.

Thanks again y'all!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Lol...yep, must still be with Dave since they didn't show up here either. Good luck with the trailer.
 
Dani said:
Not like I'll need it anytime soon since the ducks are still afraid of heading south of Dave.

Thanks again y'all!!!!!!
Click to expand...

My corn pile is getting low,,,,,, send money, cash only I don't take paypal.
 




Hi Dani -

First, get the welds fixed. And I think I would do things differently than the others have suggested. If you use this to carry more than one canoe. the other suggestions are great. If you only carry one canoe, I might suggest something different.

First, I would get rid of the current racks. The canoe sits too high and causes stress on the trailer when the canoe sways. I have a trailer that I use for the Hoefgen I own and a Poke boat.

I attach a pair of these near the back of the trailer. This is a picture of the Yakima version but their are many manufacturers of these saddles. I bet if you google canoe saddles you might get many choices. Both these to the back trailer crossbeam and make them wide enough to get the bottom of the canoe off the beam. As mentioned, I have been attaching my boats to a trailer in this way for a long time with no issues.
View attachment 1_f8dc77e5-930b-48f5-bd8b-21fce062d388_1296x.jpg

Then on the front of the trailer I would bolt one of these down. The canoe would be right side up which you may not want but just throwing out another option
View attachment 04890311200.jpg
 
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Thanks Mark for that idea. I have another boat trailer which does do similar duty as an upright canoe trailer on occasion. However, I use the canoe trailer to hold two canoes year round. My dad has me baby sitting his canoe til he can move back out of the tundra (his words for Puget Sound, not mine) so the trailer is actually quite convenient for storing both canoes.

I like those saddles though and may have to find me those that might work on the other trailer

Oh...took my trailer down to be fixed today. Hopefully should have it this week.
 
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Dani said:
Oh...took my trailer down to be fixed today. Hopefully should have it this week.
Click to expand...

I've been curious to know what your welder offered as alternative ideas on how to brace your trailer.
 
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