South Bay Duckboat - all thatched up and ready-to-hunt

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
All~


Over the years, I have had the pleasure of meeting many members of this forum. Whether here at the farm, at Tuckerton, or on Long Island, I have always enjoyed putting a face to a name. One face still eludes me.


Sometime last Spring, Long Islander Blake Heller contacted me for help with his South Bay Duckboat. He had just acquired it and knew it needed a new motor board. I have made a bunch of motor boats for these vessels over the years. I mailed Blake's to him - along with installation instructions.


Later, he asked me to make a set of flap boards and one new thatch rail. He gave me the critical measurements. I made these items and brought them to the Island in mid-November. Blake had to work on that Saturday, so I left everything at a friend's house.


Blake just sent me this photo of his South Bay all thatched up - and hunting a South Shore marsh. I am not sure if Blake is in the picture - but I still have no idea what he looks like.....beautiful hide, though!



View attachment Blake Heller South Bay - with Sanford flapboards, thatch rail and motor mount.jpg



If you are unfamiliar with South Bays, they were the brainchild of John "Red" Magnus. Inspired by traditional Great South Bay Scooters, they are made to work well in the conditions all along the south shore tidal waters. They are no longer made but remain popular. I have worked on a bunch of them.



View attachment South Bay 1.jpg



I wish I knew the years of production. I spoke to Red a couple of years ago - but he moved to western NYS quite a few years back. I keep hearing rumors of someone having the molds - but am unaware that anyone is actually making any. Here is a time capsule.


View attachment South Bay 2 - Red Magnus letter.jpg



All the best,


SJS

 
I have always been intrigued by these boats. I really like the concept, how they hunt, and the nostalgia. One day I am going to add another "sneakbox" to the fleet in addition to my DI13. This is a strong contender.
 
I love looking at the southbay boats.
Interesting to see the flyer stating 3 to 10 hp.
I do not know of any with less than a 15hp
 
Steve, still hunt mine in the back creeks. Mine is a early boat numbered with telephone pole numbers for id, red worked for NY Tel at the time. As for hp I run a 15hp which is more than enough. In the eary days they were hunting out of shacks and didn't have to travel long distances.
I really enjoy your upgrades on the southbays. The shell rack and higher spray shield are great. Wish there was a better way to attach the grass rails. Some type of blind fastener, was looking but couldn't find something that would be permanent. Anyone else find a better way?
 
Hi Capt,
What do you mean by a better way to attach the grass rails?
How are your rails attached?

On my southbay I used a 1/4'' bolt with a tee nut, I then added 5200 to the tee nut. When everything is dry the bold can be removed and the tee nut stays in place.

On my Pryer barnaget I used insert nuts wherever I did not have access.

Not sure if it is a better way, I know it is project compared to just using screws into the deck
 
Bill, I used brass nuts and bolts where possible, but it is a two man job to grass. A brass screw is used in the ends. Will the t bolts hold up in salt water? Want to do a one time renovation. Getting older and can't get under the deck each year. Never used 5200, does it do the job?
 



Capt Rich Geminski said:
Bill, I used brass nuts and bolts where possible, but it is a two man job to grass. A brass screw is used in the ends. Will the t bolts hold up in salt water? Want to do a one time renovation. Getting older and can't get under the deck each year. Never used 5200, does it do the job?

Nothing wrong with brass if you can find good brass. I used All stainless steel bolts and tee nuts nuts. They held up fine for several years
 
Bill Ferrar said:
I love looking at the southbay boats.
Interesting to see the flyer stating 3 to 10 hp.
I do not know of any with less than a 15hp

Bill,

Interesting and to your point, porpoising seems to some times be a problem for these boats. I don't know why. It would seem as if the max speed on these boats is more on the conservative side.
 
Jay K said:
Bill Ferrar said:
I love looking at the southbay boats.
Interesting to see the flyer stating 3 to 10 hp.
I do not know of any with less than a 15hp

Bill,

Interesting and to your point, porpoising seems to some times be a problem for these boats. I don't know why. It would seem as if the max speed on these boats is more on the conservative side.

My experience has been that they porpoise when it's very glassy and calm. A little texture on the water is good. I leave my decoys and gas can up under the bow and I have the engine (15hp) on a slight trim. I don't use the dolphin fins as some other guys do.
I love my boat and once you dial it in, you can manage porpoising with trial and error if it becomes a problem for you.
 
Thanks for posting Steve!

I am the one who took the picture so theres no one in the boat at that moment. I have been putting this boat to the test this season and absolutely loving it.
 
Question for the group...
Do you run with motor locked down, unlocked, or mixture of both?


I've been using my south bay all season and the whale tails have been a blessing and a curse. I run an old johnson 15hp 2 stroke. One of my fears is chopping into the tails. So when I reverse I always lock the motor down because it will rise up with too much throttle. When traversing shallow water I leave it unlocked incase I hit anything submerged, but the thought of prop contacting tails is always on my mind...
 
Last edited:
Good morning, Ross~


Many/most of the South Bays I have seen have some "chopping" on the tails inside the slot. I have filled a bunch of divots - but only a couple have penetrated the hull.



It's tough to be careful under actual gunning conditions. Before next season, you might want to apply some added protection - a "sacrificial" patch of 'glass over the vulnerable area.



After sanding the area thoroughly - then wiping down with acteone - I would apply 2 layers of cloth (7 or 10 ounce). After applying the first layer in straight epoxy, I would add the second layer at the "green" stage of cure - when it is still tacky but not yet hardened off. I would thicken the epoxy with milled fibres for the second coat and the top coat.


Milled fibres add lots of toughness - but make sanding a bear. So, I would carefully mask off the area, then wipe off any runs, drips or errors over the next few hours of curing. Once fully cured, sand with 150-grit and apply 2 coats of your favorite duckboat paint.



Hope this helps!


SJS

 
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