max hp on 12' Herter's glass duck boat

John Kirk said:
Inquiring minds want to know.
If your refering to the fiberglass skiffs w/aluminum reinforced ribs I use to run a merc 2 stroke 15 on mine and it would literally fly. with that 73 lb. motor. My transom had been completely replaced and double thickness though. All aluminum had been removed along with seats when hull was redone and used for a mold for future boats that were built by a friend. In unaltered factory condition probably a 6hp would push them along and more than likely about H.P. rating from factory.
 
Last edited:
This question came up just the other day on another hunting forum. A gentleman stated he owned a Herters Goose Duck boat and the Coast Guard tag said 7.5 hp.
 
John Kirk said:
Thanks Ed. Looking hard at a project boat....[angelic]

NP. The guy said he tried a friends 8hp motor and said it was scary fast. He said he uses a 4hp and that is plenty fast for him.
 
John Kirk said:
Want a back of truck boat.

Not a "drag through the woods and over the rocks by Dave's house" boat?

Re: the original question, you are not going to run that boat far on any lake, ocean, or big river in a Maine duck season. How about an electric trolling motor? Shouldn't take you much to get to hull speed, and you don't want to plane out in that, do you?
 
John Kirk said:
thanks Roy; that's about what I was thinking. Want a back of truck boat.
Those little hulls don,t have much hull in water planed out. Best to have weight up front . My 80 lb. lab worked for me but gunnin buddy who had no dog found that about 75 lbs. off sand bag forward kept boat under control. Remember that bow shape is basically modified canoe shape so not a rough water boat by any means. Even crossing a good sized boat wake at speed will get your attention.
 
Jeff- it will be a chain to a tree in the woods by Dave's house boat. Would you prefer to have 6 horses of gas dependability or trolling motor? I won't just use it there. I have some places closer to home that a boat just like this. Slide it down the bank with a bag of decoys and go.
 
FWIW, on my sculling boat, I had a 3.5 hp Tohatsu. I would not call what I had "reliability", and every time my motor failed, I found I could row the boat as fast as that motor would push it. After a while I stopped messing with the motor and gas.

How far are you planning to go? For a mile or less from where you launch, I'd go with oars if the boat will row well. If you'll be going farther, a motor might be worth it.


6HP motor and fuel is going to add 60+ pounds to your payload, so you'll have less capacity for people, dogs and decoys.
 
I'd be comfortable in that boat in all the places and conditions I am comfortable in my canoe. If I were running across open water more than a mile or so, or if I wanted to hunt in snotty weather, I'd want something bigger. You just rehabbed a center console, right? You could tow your new boat behind or even mount it on the bow for travel from the launches at East End or Falmouth town landing, then stash the big boat to hunt from the new one.
 
Troy~


It's be a lot easier to horse that vessel into your truck if it didn't have so much duckflesh aboard.....


All the best,


SJS

 
Regarding trolling motors.... Does someone have a source for a ?lightweight? deep cycle battery?

A good old Johnson or Evinrude 3hp with weedless lower weighs about 40 lbs and has self contained gas tank. It?s about the perfect duck motor IMO.

I like the silence of a trolling motor but the weight of the battery eliminates any notion of portability.
 
As another option, has anyone tried any of the propane outboards? If you believe the hype, they are as quiet as a 4 stroke, easy to start hot or cold, and no gas to spill. Looks like 50+/- pound for a 5hp.
 
Back
Top