BBSB Fixup Question.

David Clites

Active member
I am reglassing the stringers in my 1986 Higbee BBSB. I want to enlarge the drainage holes in the stringers before I apply epoxy and cloth. It is a tight fit getting my reciprocating saw in there, keyhole saw is not much better. Existing holes are approximately 1/2 inch. If I go to a larger Twist Drill bit on some of the holes I would risk partially drilling through bottom of the hull. I will be drilling through not only plywood but also old fibreglass. Any tips on how to enlarge these holes ? (Which do not necessarily need to be round). View attachment IMG_20210824_092530.jpg
 
David~


I have run into the same challenges when enlarging weep-holes in internal framing. Poking through or weakening the 'glass skin is a real concern.


Nowadays I would probably use a combination of an oscillating multi-tool - with one of its offset blades - and a Dremel with a coarse bit. As you mentioned, weep-holes do not need to be round. I have seen them cut square (rectangular, actually) in the frames in some traditional wooden vessels. I presume the builder used 2 saw cuts and a chisel BEFORE the planking went on.


All the best,


SJS




 
If you have room to move on both sides of the stringer, you might try one of the hacksaw blades they call "cutting rods". It's coated with diamond grit or something similar, feed it in one hole and cut to the next. You can attach the hacksaw frame once it's fed through the hole, or just hold the ends in you hands. Lots of elbow grease required. Clean up the cut with a rattail file. It won't be pretty but it'll do the job.
 
I think Steve is on the right track with using an oscillating multi-tool to create or enlarge those limber holes. It is really a shame that more builders don't put a higher priority in proper drainage and a good big limber hole is a great thing. We want water to rush out of the hull through a nice fat limber hole, not slowly weep out as if leaking out a masonry wall.
 
Thanks All for the inputs. I don't own an Oscillating Tool but this might be a good reason to buy one. I do own the round Silicon Carbide hacksaw blades. Coupling the Oscillating tool or carbide hacksaw blade with a large-tooth rattail file or small-diameter round rasp I think I can enlarge the holes.

It is reassuring to know that I am not the only person having problems with drain holes too small and that enlarging the holes is a bit of a challenge. Thanks again.
 
the tool can be as cheap (harbor freight) or expensive (Fein) as you want to make it. I always put off buying one, but I bought a Milwaukee cordless a couple years ago and I find it an exceptionally useful tool, almost in the wouldn't be without category.
 
I took the cheap way out. I put an old bent blade in my reciprocating saw and roughed out the holes to around 1 inch diameter, then smoothed and rounded out the holes with a Dremel sized sanding drum. Worked great. The bend in the blade kept saw body from interfering. Crude but effective. I gave the the holes 3 coats of US Composites 3:1 epoxy with silica filler using a 1/2 inch chip brush.
It has been bugging me for some time that interior of plywood transom is not epoxy coated on these Higbee's. Any reason I shouldn't epoxy encapsulate? All wood is solid and dry--has been drying in my hot/dry garage for over a month.
Thanks all for advice...
View attachment IMG_20210903_140659.jpgView attachment IMG_20210903_141225.jpg
 
Back
Top