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I'm going to do it

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I'm going to do it
Watched several videos on replacing the water pump assembly, thermostat and recoil starter. Couldn't find exactly the model I have but they are all pretty much the same. As mentioned by several folks, the only hard part appears to be getting the shift cable loose and even that doesn't look too hard.

What I have found interesting is the many methods to reassemble. Some use 15 different greases and sealants and some use nothing. Some are in between. Some say to apply grease to the o'rings to help them seal (I thought o'rings did this on their own). Some say to apply grease to the rubber impeller, some use dawn soap and some use nothing. The number of variations is endless.

Wish me luck. Step 1 & 2 are complete. Watched a lot of videos and got the motor off the boat and onto a motor stand in my garage. This afternoon is the getting the lower unit off and taking a part the old water pump assembly. Then order the replacement OEM kits and then wait. I want to b sure I can get the lower unit off before ordering parts.

Mark
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
Good luck,
I am sure you you can do it.
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
Mark W wrote:
Some say to apply grease to the o'rings to help them seal (I thought o'rings did this on their own). Some say to apply grease to the rubber impeller, some use dawn soap and some use nothing.

Mark



O-rings seal by compression, the reason for "greasing" is to prevent the O-ring from being damaged (cut, twisted) during assembly, same for the impellor. Bad thing about "grease" is not all greases are compatible with all rubber components.
What do I use?,

either, pure silicone grease Amazon.com : Silicone Grease 100% Pure Lubricant 1/4 oz for Scuba Regulators and More : Diving Regulator Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

or Crisco shortening (like for cooking) Laugh

Either product will provide the desired effect, without any detrimental side effects.

Good luck with your rebuild.

Take care, Huntindave McCann Smile SHELL ROCK IA. ,,,,,, "As sailors grow older, the wiser ones move to smaller boats." Thomas Firth Jones, Multihull Voyaging

Last edited by:

Huntindave McCann: Feb 22, 2022, 3:52 PM
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
Crisco, never thought of that!


Carl
Mobile, AL
DHBP Member since 1998

"Life is too short to drink bad beer."
Disclaimer: This post and/or report is not a substantiation of or reflection on the true accuracy of the present surveying methods. It is only a report on or comment concerning local observation and/or results. Your results and observation may vary based on your location, local water conditions, food supply, weather conditions and migratory patterns "
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
Carl wrote:
Crisco, never thought of that!



Well, Crisco has also been used to lube up guns. No kidding. It is not a good long term grease for guns though....gets gunky and rancid....have also seen what I believe was mostly bacon fat....smelled that way mostly anyway

I don't suggest either for a gun lube

Good luck Mark!!!

Last edited by:

Dani: Feb 22, 2022, 4:37 PM
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
Dani wrote:
Carl wrote:
Crisco, never thought of that!



Well, Crisco has also been used to lube up guns. No kidding. It is not a good long term grease for guns though....gets gunky and rancid....have also seen what I believe was mostly bacon fat....smelled that way mostly anyway

I don't suggest either for a gun lube

Good luck Mark!!!


Just thinking out loud here but maybe we should be using Duck Fat to lube the guns




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Already screwed up. Followed all the youtube vids and online posts. Got the lower unit bolts off and couldn't find the bolt that released the gear shift rod from the lower unit. Looked everywhere. Saw a video where they took off a bolt at the top of the linkage and pulled the shift linkage through. Did it and no problem. Everything came out. It was at this point that I realized every video was for a short shaft motor, I have a long shaft motor. Had to remove the "spacer" between the motor and lower unit. Oh boy. Hope I didn't open a can of worms. Hopefully the gear linkage goes back up easily but I have my doubts.

And as thee things go, I found a nice little parts schematic after the fact and learned that had I removed the "spacer" first, the little bolt to remove the gear shift linkage was right there.

Just spent $1300 to repair my wife's Audi as you cant work on those vehicles anymore. Am wondering if I am going to exceed this figure with my DIY repair.

Mark

Last edited by:

Mark W: Feb 23, 2022, 3:59 PM
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
You're doing great Mark and will be able to put that back together. I'm like you the first time I do something, takes me 4 times as long as it should because I take it slow. But now you have the schematic it will be much easier to be confident when reassembling.
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Re: I'm going to do it In reply to
greg setter wrote:
You're doing great Mark and will be able to put that back together. I'm like you the first time I do something, takes me 4 times as long as it should because I take it slow. But now you have the schematic it will be much easier to be confident when reassembling.


4 times - you're an expert. My DIY factor is at a minimum 7.

Was hoping to work on it today but had a water line freeze up at the cabin. Got lucky and nothing burst but kind of took over my day.

Mark
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Mark, one mistake I learned about the hard way...when you reassemble the Shift mechanism make sure the Connector Screw 304024 (that goes through the Brass Shift Rod Connector 303794) goes into the "cutout" or recessed area of the Rod, not just against the straight section of the Rod. I had a Water Pump replaced by a mechanic one time and he evidently didn't get the screw into the correct location...left me stranded in the marsh with no ability to shift out of Neutral..had to call a neighbor to tow me home...it takes a little jiggling to get everything positioned correctly but it is important to do. Good luck...
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Mark, missed what brand of motor you are working on.
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Yeah, the videos I have watched mentioned the shift rod connector screw and exactly what happens if it doesn't get replaced properly. thanks for the reminder.

The motor is a 1996 Evinrude 15hp two stroke. The exact model is E15RLEUC. Some sites list this model number as a 1997 but the plate on the motor says it is a 1996