the makings of a 167 bird teal rig
DHBP Member since May 1999

Bob,
I have used those cable clamps quite a bit at work. The white ones became brittle in just a couple years. We use the black ones now that are suppose to be more durable but I have not had them in use long enough to know yet. Hope that can save you some free floating blocks down the road.

"UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It's not."

Thanks Brandon, Im trying to come up with anchor line attachment options. Thanks for the tip, anybody have an idea for a anchor tie off point? I am trying to keep the bottom of the decoy as smooth as possible to avoid chafing the other decoys in transport.
DHBP Member since May 1999

Bob,
We have used these for the last 10 years at work and they are out in the sun. They hold up. Maybe you could modify them?

https://smile.amazon.com/...le?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It's not."

How about a heavy duty nylon cable clamp attached to the head anchor screw?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NSi-Industries-Heavy-Duty-Nylon-Cable-Clamps-0-375-in-Black-100-Pack-NCH-375-0/307357591?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US

---

Carl
Mobile, AL
DHBP Member since 1998

"Life is too short to drink bad beer."
Disclaimer: This post and/or report is not a substantiation of or reflection on the true accuracy of the present surveying methods. It is only a report on or comment concerning local observation and/or results. Your results and observation may vary based on your location, local water conditions, food supply, weather conditions and migratory patterns "

Carl, thats kind of what i got, but looking at grainger they have a heavy duty model.
Brandon, those would work with a longer screw.
DHBP Member since May 1999

Bob~


I'm really enjoying this thread - your R&D staff are going full bore. Can't wait to see your printed heads.


I may have missed this detail: All GWTs - or some Blue-wings, too?


All the best,


SJS


Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

Steve, I have the Top Men of DHBP working on this project now TOP MEN!!! I was down this road last summer when i repainted the big mallard rig and found that parts of it are like working on an assembly line and never seeing the finish line. I mixed it up yesterday and painted a couple prototypes. The hen is too mallard hen like in base color. i need to grey/brown the base coat a bit. The rough texture will limit detail on both.
I think the body pattern will work for both gwt and bwt and one of my head profiles will be interchangeable. I know the live birds are very different but i don't think it will matter much at 20 yards.

DHBP Member since May 1999

Great work, you are a one man
Factory! I love it.





Oxford, CT

Bob, YOU understand the twenty yard philosophy. This, and sweat, bandages and dust now entitle you to be a decoy maker!
george@runamuckdecoys.com

As normal I'm a day late, but Stainless cable clamps are available. Additionally did I miss the actual coating formula you're using? Glue, water and thin set, but roughly what proportion of titebond to water? I.e. how watery before adding the thin set? Definitely enjoying your project.

Scott

Thanks for the encouragement fellas. Getting alot done in this cold wet spring. I painted up a few more samples trying a new paint scheme. The printed heads are not finished yet so Im waiting for that step. Scott , I mixed the thinset with water according to the bag instruction then in another container mixed up some titebond 2 and a bit of water then poured it into a cottage cheese container and mixed it really well. It came out like a thin milkshake . Thanks for the tip on the clips. They are in the running but I ordered the ones Brandon mentioned yesterday. And you nailed it, A day late...
DHBP Member since May 1999

Bob, if you need color schematic for the teal, drop me a note
gwdecoys@verizon.net
Will send you printable info.
george@runamuckdecoys.com

My son sent the mock up and modeling of the heads to me today. The material is a low cost plastic he uses for modeling. The final I believe fill be done in ABS plastic.
DHBP Member since May 1999

the top middle and far right shows the neck build up with the threaded hole for a 1/4 screw. the piece under the bill is just for support during the process and snaps off real easy. the heads in yellow are a mock up of how many he can fit on his table at one time.
Babies must have been switched in the maternity ward thats the only answer i have.
DHBP Member since May 1999

Raiders or the Lost Ark reference???

Great looking project you've got going there!

.........................................
Recovering Engineer, Standup Philosopher, Aspiring Pirate, Cooking Enthusiast
"Life is a garden.... Dig It!"

you are correct sir
DHBP Member since May 1999

Really cool stuff!!

---

Carl
Mobile, AL
DHBP Member since 1998

"Life is too short to drink bad beer."
Disclaimer: This post and/or report is not a substantiation of or reflection on the true accuracy of the present surveying methods. It is only a report on or comment concerning local observation and/or results. Your results and observation may vary based on your location, local water conditions, food supply, weather conditions and migratory patterns "

Bob, not being critical, really asking because I have seriously thought about doing this! Did your son use a 3D scanner? Curious why you are going with a flat head? Because he scanned what you carved from narrow stock?

Dave Diefenderfer
Manassas, VA

"Once you set out to build a boat, throw away your square. And if you work on her after she's launched, throw away your level." author unknown

I provided him with two models. One a flat stock 3/4 board with the corners knocked off and a full carved almost decorative style with cheeks and bill detail. The first ones were the flattie style and will work but not all that fancy. He does have a scanner and will incorporate that in the second batch on the detailed head. But yes your critique is valid . Once you have the head modeled any extra detail is no big deal. I was going to go the mold route but if i can get what i want out of the 3 d process it's way less cost and effort for 150 heads. By the way your recent offering in this months workbench thread is very nice. This project was inspired by your post on the INVADM decoys.
DHBP Member since May 1999

Bob,

Thanks for sharing the recipe! I've still got dozens of cast EPS decoys to do something with.

Scott

Bob~


Interesting!


I, too, leave the material beneath the bill when sawing out wooden heads. I saw it 95% - but leave a hinge so it's there when I'm sawing the plan view. Then I just snap if off when the time comes.





All the best,


SJS

Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

got the new head scanned and it shows all the detail i want waiting for production to start. used a scanning app on phone and produced all the detail
DHBP Member since May 1999

Put down a base coat on 40 hens. Got the color down thanks to George W for the detailed instructions. I did a test with tube oils and found the right shade and color matched in the BM super spec DTM alkyd that i always use. It's real hard drying stuff . It will dry with a low luster sheen which i wash over with a thin raw umber /japan dryer mix.
The heads are printing and came out better than expected. I have to pick them up this week so stay tuned.

DHBP Member since May 1999

43 drake's ready to rig.Waiting on more heads. I need about 125 teal heads to go. I came back from MN for 10 days to work on decoys plant millett and upgrade the fleet.
Happy with the drakes although I added a little white on the head separating the green and brown and it's barely there in the live bird but chalk it up to artistic interpretation.

DHBP Member since May 1999