I've put off refinishing two old paddles of mine, and just acquired another pair. All are from an old-time Maine paddle maker who also makes fine oars: Shaw and Tenney. Those of you who don't already know them might enjoy their website. Still in the original building from 1858! https://www.shawandtenney.com/
Three of these are spruce, the third is sassafrass. All were originally finished with spar varnish. Varnish is now worn in spots--especially at the tips and where the shafts rub the gunwales on steering strokes. In a few places the wear is down into the surface of the wood.
I also need to recoat a pair of wooden snowshoes. These are modern and functional, not old classics like the paddles, but made of a hardwood (ash, I think) and "webbed" with 200 pound test monofilament fishing line.
All need refinished, and I have what should be enough Epifanes spar varnish for them all, and a local source if I need more.
Questions:
(1) Sanding. I see some online advice that suggests sanding to bare wood to remove all the varnish. But I seem to recall that one advantage of varnish is that new varnish can go on over old so long as the surface is roughened by sanding and then cleaned.
(2) Sanding #2. Without unlacing the snowshoes, there is no way I can sand them well. The mono is wrapped around the frames, to avoid the weak points that drilled holes would entail. I do not want to unlace and replace--don't know the right pattern and knots, don't have the right material, and likely can't get them nearly taut as the Canadian company that made them. And I don't want to try to sand around that monofilament and risk nicking it. Can I just scuff with steel wool to put some tooth on the old finish? Don't care what they look like--just want the wood protected. The areas that need attention are the bottoms and any wood near where my boots hit.
(3) How fine to sand before finishing? 200 grit? finer?
(4) Some online advice suggests thinning the varnish before I apply. If so, with what? Linseed oil? (Boiled or not?) Mineral spirits? How much to thin? Thin all the coats? Just the first one or two?
(5) On the paddles, I do care about aesthetics--and about smooth shafts for my hands. Some advice suggests using badger bristle brushes, which are expensive. I know I don't want to use a chip brush, and I'll spring for good brushes if needed, but looking for advice from the DHBP hive mind on a good economical but effective brush.
All advice is welcome, even if my skill set won't allow me to follow all of it. LOL.
Three of these are spruce, the third is sassafrass. All were originally finished with spar varnish. Varnish is now worn in spots--especially at the tips and where the shafts rub the gunwales on steering strokes. In a few places the wear is down into the surface of the wood.
I also need to recoat a pair of wooden snowshoes. These are modern and functional, not old classics like the paddles, but made of a hardwood (ash, I think) and "webbed" with 200 pound test monofilament fishing line.
All need refinished, and I have what should be enough Epifanes spar varnish for them all, and a local source if I need more.
Questions:
(1) Sanding. I see some online advice that suggests sanding to bare wood to remove all the varnish. But I seem to recall that one advantage of varnish is that new varnish can go on over old so long as the surface is roughened by sanding and then cleaned.
(2) Sanding #2. Without unlacing the snowshoes, there is no way I can sand them well. The mono is wrapped around the frames, to avoid the weak points that drilled holes would entail. I do not want to unlace and replace--don't know the right pattern and knots, don't have the right material, and likely can't get them nearly taut as the Canadian company that made them. And I don't want to try to sand around that monofilament and risk nicking it. Can I just scuff with steel wool to put some tooth on the old finish? Don't care what they look like--just want the wood protected. The areas that need attention are the bottoms and any wood near where my boots hit.
(3) How fine to sand before finishing? 200 grit? finer?
(4) Some online advice suggests thinning the varnish before I apply. If so, with what? Linseed oil? (Boiled or not?) Mineral spirits? How much to thin? Thin all the coats? Just the first one or two?
(5) On the paddles, I do care about aesthetics--and about smooth shafts for my hands. Some advice suggests using badger bristle brushes, which are expensive. I know I don't want to use a chip brush, and I'll spring for good brushes if needed, but looking for advice from the DHBP hive mind on a good economical but effective brush.
All advice is welcome, even if my skill set won't allow me to follow all of it. LOL.
