David~


Here's some info re thatch rails. I make mine from Mahogany and glue on - with Gorilla Glue - 3/16" thick spacers. Most spacers (except ends) are 2" long. I clamp them up a pair at a time - back to back.







The ends get longer (3") spacers and get shaped.






I bore and countersink the screw holes.






As mentioned previously, I seal with Spar Varnish before painting. I usually paint just the undersides before insyallation - then put 2 coats on after installation and the 3M 5200 sets up. (the rails in the photo below are refurbished, original White Oak rails.)







Here's the batch drying on the bench.







The faired ends prevent fouling of lines, et cetera.






Here's the complete set on a South Bay.








Some brass - not bronze but OK since they're above the waterline - cleats:


https://www.westmarine.com/whitecap-6-1-2inch-polished-brass-hollow-base-cleat-17283110.html?&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=PMax:%20GSC%3eSmart_Shopping%3eAnchor%20&%20Docking&gclid=CjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1OrT312LClAeHBjB4dhzP8uQhn-NsIqDzaRvnVrqgb-7w5794z3guRoCOIAQAvD_BwE


I'm guessing you have the oarlock sockets?


https://www.westmarine.com/...moYLt8RoCDnAQAvD_BwE





All the best,


SJS


Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

David~


Vessel looks fine!


I like the materials and workmanship on duckboats to be "yacht-quality with a workboat finish". Flat paints hide lots of imperfections!


You are on the right track!


SJS

Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

Steve,

I've been going back and forth on a few things. Big thanks to yourself and Bill Ferrar for all of the advise.

I made up my grass rails and sealed them with the spar varnish. Also put a second coat of top paint on the boat last night.

I really like how you have the cleats and eye bolt on top of the grass rail, so I am going to mimic that. Since I don't have access to the underside of the foam filled compartments, I found SS Toggles for the cleats and eye bolts. I am going to put one eye bolt on the stern for an engine safety harness and one on the bow for the trailer winch to attach too.

Question: For the deck joists, what type of wood do you like? I am debating whether or not I need to glass in the joists. I don't think that was ever done to this boat. Plywood will most likely be used for the deck material. The slotted look is beautiful, but I'm concerned with the dogs paws getting stuck. After all the boat is really for her.

PS - adding vintage Aeromarine photo for historical purposes






1982 Aeromarine

In the essence of time, I acquired a bag of nylon washers/spacers for the grass rails.
1982 Aeromarine

Good morning, David~


I would not fasten the frames to the hull. Instead, I would fasten them to the plywood - as in my "Sunfish conversion" floorboards I depicted in my October 4 post. Because these boats have lots of shape (deadrise) in their hull sections, the floorboards will likely stay put without anything to hold them in place - especially once you and your dog are standing on them.


One question: Will you be able to get a 1-piece floorboard in and out of the cockpit opening?







I seal the plywood - top and bottom - with 2 coats of straight epoxy.



For both you and your dog, I would add anti-skid onto your first coat of paint. (I'm putting it on the top of the aft coaming on my current project - a Duck Wrangler.) I "salt" the anti-skid onto the wet paint - then paint a second coat over it after it has cured.







And - being the OCD me - I mask off a 1-inch border all around the floorboard to give it a more finished look.






One other thought: I'm sure your s/s toggles will be fine. However, I would install Beckson deck plates in your bulkhead so you can inspect (foam in "sealed" chambers can get waterlogged over time) and get into your flotation chambers if needed. I will installing a set in a South Bay later this week.







The plates are watertight - but easy to open.






All the best,


SJS


Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

Dave: FYI the photo that you posted of the flyer for the sneak box shows Tom Pryers son John driving the boat...
They also had one of John wearing hip boots and the boat filled with water....

Steve: Several years ago I asked John why they fiber glassed the plywood rather than duck board that was removable.
He said it helped with the structure having ribs and a solid floor in addition a lot of people were running 25 hp way over the rated hp but the boat could handle it.

The floor board is only 48'' x 31 1/2'' so it could come out of the boat.

Well I think that I am pretty much "finished." Time to grass it up and clean/organize the garage.

I ended up going with the removable floor boards. Notched the stern end to keep the fuel tank centered. In hindsight that was probably not necessary. The joists scribed to the hull seem to distribute my weight well. At just over 20 mph and in some chop, the boat felt rock solid.

Now to figure out how to hunt this thing. I think hunting with the dodger in the half up position would be best. Just have to figure out how to secure it there while still being able to put the dodger in the full up position while hunting. Since I am using the existing dodger that didn't have grass straps, I zip tied some strapping and then netting to it. I guess I'll have to tie grass off to this in small sections.

A dozen duck floaters fit perfectly in the bow, so storage shouldn't really be an issue.

The dog came with me for the sea trial and she took well to the boat. Threw her a dokken and the low gunnels make launching from the boat a breeze for her. Looking forward to the season opening and getting birdy.

Thanks again to everyone chiming in and helping me with the restoration.




1982 Aeromarine

Dave , you did a fine job with the restore. It looked better that factory new.

Thanks Bill. Here's another photo that I forgot to add to the previous post.
1982 Aeromarine

David~


Great job throughout!


I understand your dilemma re hiding. On my Sneakbox, I always put the dodger down - but pulled enough up to break up my outline and fend off the wind. I made a length of thatched-up strapping (really buckram - used in drapes). I just stuck it in place when hunkering down to hide. It worked well-enough - but I always wanted something that was secured in place.


I thought of The Solution a year or so ago but have not yet implemented it. My plan is to put a thatched-up, rigid spray shield between the coaming and the dodger. I have collected a few original small spray shields from South sand plan to re-purpose one.


I will be restoring a Sneakbox this Winter and will show what I'm talking about then.


In the meantime,


Happy Hunting!


SJS


Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

Got out for the first hunt and shot some puddlers. Engine stalled out (bad fuel line) and then the pull start chord broke, so my hunting buddy towed me into the spot with his South Bay. I neglected to check either of those parts and will be carrying an extra started chord from now on. Also didn?t realize the gray fuel lines have an inner liner that seems to degrade quickly, or so I have been told. Switching to black lines in the future. The boat paddles well with the oars.
Twelfth and the cockpit
I secured the dodger in the half up position. I can still hold onto it while running the boat and it?s one less thing to worry about while hunting. Maybe I?ll have a day where I need the full dodger in the future.

The boat hid very well and had plenty of birds decoying. I was holding camo mesh over myself and the cockpit, which worked well however, after the dogs first retrieve everything was soaked. Luckily it wasn?t too cold. Thinking about installing 10? x 26? flap boards to cover the cockpit better. They would stay just aft of the park locks, so I could still use those in an emergency or if I need to warm up.

1982 Aeromarine

Good morning, David~


Congratulations on a fine hunt! Glad you had a partner along for the tow - but not surprised that your vessel rows well.



re covering the cockpit: I still think a Lap Canvas is the way to go for your boat (as compared with flap boards). It keeps much more heat in the cockpit and rolls quickly onto the afterdeck when you need to operate the boat. Also, a lap cover gives you a safe way to hold your gun - across the coamings - when hiding.


I will be making one in January for a Sneakbox restoration -- and will post the (simple) process.


All the best,


SJS


Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

Dave, excellent job impressed with the work! Better then factory

Long Island, NY
http://www.Island-Outdoors.com

Looking for some advice on how to improve my hide in this boat. I have been hunting a layout blind forever, so I am used to being completely concealed. Steve recommended a canvas lap cover, which I think is a great idea and will complete in the off season. I still feel like adding some type of flap board would help with concealing myself and the dog. After making up two 11" x 32" flap boards sealed in epoxy with a single grass rail, they seemed very heavy and will stick out past the edge of the boat when down, likely taking a beating when at the dock. Any suggestions given the above as well as the rather unique cockpit shape? Maybe I'm overthinking it.

Thanks in advance.

Photos of a ducks view and hidden in the marsh:



1982 Aeromarine

David~


Great photo of your rig out on the marsh. I was just down on LI but my friend's Covid precluded gunning.


Got a photo of your motor cover? I'll be sewing one up tomorrow.


All the best!


SJS

Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

Steve,

Lots of viruses going around from what I've heard. I'm fighting something off myself.

I don't have a bare photo of the motor cover, but here it is grassed up in the field. I bought it from https://customdecoybags.com/...sal-size-motor-cover

It has two rows of grass loops on the sides and back and I believe 3 or 4 on top.



1982 Aeromarine

Dave boat looks great! I'd say by the time the ducks see it it's too late... but I would add some more salt-hay to that motor & take a look at the pull over canvas Diane makes from customdecoybags.com Diane makes a pull-over blanket style with loops to add grass too. Tanglefree also offers something similar to cover up the cockpit.
Here's the links:

Cockpit Cover Diane: https://customdecoybags.com/...lanket-cockpit-cover

Tanglefree Cover: https://tanglefree.com/.../flight-swag-blanket

Here's my TDB

Can Also Look At Different Cockpit Dodger Design..







Long Island, NY
http://www.Island-Outdoors.com

I should have never sold my areomarine sneakbox....but when I had one, I used a heavier garden fence material as a lap blanket with grass woven through it to nearly completely cover me in the cockpit while hunting. For transportation, it rolled up as described in previous posts like any canvas would. Very effective and field expedient, matched the rest of the boat without issue and could be cut to your desired shape without great expense of time or effort.

Season preparations are in full swing...

Had to replace my trailer tongue that was kinked in the middle (11' galvanized tongues are hard to find), so I went through the trailer and replaced bearings, bearing buddies, wiring.

Not much to do except some fine tuning of my new flap boards and a new canvas dodger. As for the flap boards, I was toying with the idea of using friction hinges, but after some R&D on the fishing vessels, they seem to lose their stiffness after a year or two. I think I'll stick with what I have, but a friend is going to try them out.

DK
1982 Aeromarine

Good morning, David~


Will you be bringing your rig to the SSWA Duckboat Show at Cedar Beach on the 28th?


Hope to see you there!


SJS
Steven Jay Sanford
Pencil Brook Farm
South Cambridge, NY
http://www.stevenjaysanford.com

I hope to attend the duck boat show on the 28th. I am supposed to bring the boat to the canvas man on the 16th, so it should be ready for show time. In the mean time:

Last year I installed these door stops on the flaps boards to be able to adjust the board angle. It was helpful to play with, but I think long term these will rust out, so I'm making Mahogony stops where I am happy with the flap board angle. They are sealed with spar varnish and I'm not going to paint them. Need some bright work on the duck yacht. The flap boards are getting some supports by way of 1 1/4" dowels sealed with penetrating epoxy. When the boards are in the down position, the grass rail will rest on these, giving my dog, Georgie, a solid platform to launch from.

I was toying with the idea of rebuilding the dodger completely, but after some experimenting, I decided that the original frame was kind of perfect and in good shape. I am going to replace the rail mounts and then the boat is going to go in for fresh canvas. The combo of the dodger with slight overhead coverage and the flap boards should make the boat hide well. Especially my dogs white face. Last year I hunted the majority of the year with the dodger in the half down position and without any flap boards and we had some great shoots.

What do you think of the flap board gunning position?

DK






1982 Aeromarine

Bill,

Let's get on the birds this year!
1982 Aeromarine

NIce work Dave, look forward to seeing you at the show!

Long Island, NY
http://www.Island-Outdoors.com

Haven't been on in a while and here is a much needed update on the project. It was great to see some of you at the SSWA show and meet some new faces.

The dowels as flap board rests were installed and have so far proven to be "dog proof." I also fabricated mahogany rests secured to the interior of the flap boards to keep them in their desired gunning position.

Finally, the new canvas dodger and cockpit cover are complete. The Dodger frame and canvas are super solid and provide great cover while running and gunning. Combined with the extra cover I'm getting from the flap boards, I almost don't know how I had ducks decoying last year. My two hunts in the first split weren't great, but I am still learning how to hunt the boat most effectively.

Question for the board: What to do about decoy storage? I can fit a dozen decoys in the forward area, but its kind of a pain to get on my knees and fish them out of there with the dog there as well. Small boat / big man problems. Would I be better off using a 12 slot decoy bag or maybe two of Diane's 6 slot gunnel bags? I purchased 6 classic H&H decoys at the October show that are being repainted, so I kind of want to transport them in a bag anyways.




1982 Aeromarine