Anchor bend

jeff kakaley

jeff kakaley

Member
Would the anchor bend be the best hitch for attaching anchor line to the boat as well as the anchor line to the anchor? Kind of confused as to the correct application of said hitches / bends / knots.

Thanks
Jeff
 
What's the fitting on your boat you are using to tie the anchor to?

A cleat? A post? A round eye of some sort?
 
Jeff an anchor hitch is basically made by making a round turn around a post and then securing it with one half hitch through the second leg of the turn then the second half hitch around the working end of the rope. This knot has some advantages like much of the weight or tension will be held by the round turn, this will create no sharp bends so as to weaken the rope significantly. Also it will likely be easily untied. The downside to it is you will need a rather large surface (at least twice the diameter of the rope) to tie it on. Meaning unless you have a really big anchor you wont be able to tie it. For most smaller boats with fluke, river or danforth style anchors I would just connect with a good old fashion bowline (rabbit comes out of the hole, around the tree and back in the hole). The biggest downsides to the knot are it weakens the rope but with modern ropes that is of little concern, and it is difficult to untie after a significant load is applied, if it is to be permanently attached to the anchor though that is of little concern. Now, where it might be useful is if you have a post and not a cleat on the bow of your boat to attach your anchor. Tie this around your post and you can easily untie the knot when done or only take out the half hitches and easily take up slack or release line when needed. If you have a cleat though just wrap in a figure 8 pattern around the cleat and secure with one half hitch.
 
Would the anchor bend be the best hitch for attaching anchor line to the boat as well as the anchor line to the anchor? Kind of confused as to the correct application of said hitches / bends / knots.

Thanks
Jeff
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The anchor bend will work at the anchor end but in my opinion is a poor substitute for an eye splice with a thimble.
 
Jeff, run to the library and borrow a book of knots. Great reading and good instruction.
Knots are multi purposed. Heck a i/2 dozen half hitches will do a lot, but a bowline is better.
 
I've got an eye which to attach the anchor line.
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If you are thinking of tying the rope to the bow eye of the boat with an anchor bend it would work. You need to think about how you will recover the anchor when it is time to get underway and most times it isn't any fun to reach down there to grab the line.

If you have a deck on the boat you could tie off to a cleat. There are a number of systems you can install. Lots of options here. Not knowing the boat I really can't suggest one.
 
Paul I've got a Bankes Crusader. Decked over, tie off cleat on top. I've been reading up on different knots and just wanted to use the appropriate knot for the job. Original line which came with the boat looked to be a bowline hitch. I didn't think that was appropriate for an anchor line.
 
I'd go with an eye splice and thimble also. It's fairly easy to do with three strand, checkout u tube videos. Tie of on a cleat to adjust the scope of your rode depending on water depth.
 
To do it right, especially in maritime waters, you splice in a thimble on the end of your anchor line, to that, shackle a length of chain, maybe 5-8' then shackle the chain to the anchor. This way there is no wear or abrasion to your line, All components of your anchor system (ground tackle) is sized for the size of the boat. for instance, an 18' boat you'd want about a 7# Danforth type, depending on your bottom type, 1/2" nylon line with 3/8" shackles. If you expect to be anchoring in stormy conditions, go up an anchor size, also you need plenty of line, especially in windy conditions, figure at least 10' of line per foot of water, more in storm conditions, An 8" cleat with a below deck backing is adequate. go around the cleat once, then figure 8 the line over the "horns" this way you can easily undo or adjust your line.

You don't want to gamble on your anchor not holding when things go bad, that's when you NEED it to work. Two anchor setups, a lighter and heavier one is good insurance.
 
Good morning, Jeff~

Interesting thread!

I concur with the thimble + eye splice on the anchor end.

On the boat end (presumably a nice big accessible cleat up on your foredeck), I like to run my anchor rode through the hole in the cleat (between where the 2 bolts fasten it through the deck) and then tie a figure-eight knot as a "stopper knot" so that the anchor is always attached to the boat. I whip the end of my line so it easily fits through the hole. Alternatively - if your cleat is big enough - you can put an eye-splice about 8-inches long in the boat end, run it through the hole, then put one loop (bight) over each horn and pull back through the hole to snug everything up. Either method allows for secure attachment that is easily undone when needed.

The other idea I like (gcs) is to have 2 anchors aboard. A small "picnic anchor" with maybe 25 feet of line gets used most of the time. The "storm anchor" has all the length you'd need in severe conditions. It gets stowed (in a bag or on chocks) most of the time but is available when you need it. I lash the coiled rode in 3 places - with slipped square knots in decoy line - so it is not tangled when you do need it.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve;

Thank you very much for the valuable insight and information you provide. I will naturally be following your advice. I am going to try and do a splice with a thimble on the anchor end. Any suggestions as to a source for stainless hardware?
 
Jeff~

Since I no longer live in "boat country", I get most of my marine stuff from either Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors. (I've used them for more than 30 years now.)

BTW: A hot-dipped galvanized thimble will last a long time - even in saltwater (like most anchors).

Also, if you are using the standard 3-strand nylon, be ready for a slippery experience when splicing. Be sure to tape (masking is fine) the rope before you cut it. Make your cut right through the tape, then tape the end of each strand as soon as you cut the rope. Also, tape the rope immediately "above" your eye splice before you start to unravel the 3 strands.

All the best,

SJS
 
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