building 2 broadbills day 2

jeff tarr

Active member
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Chris~

Very exciting! You're making it tough for me to stay "on tasK"...

Is this a Devlin Broadbill?

I look forward to the next steps,

SJS
 
Yes its the devlin broadbill.I started carving my own decoys about12 years ago I figured it was time to build my own boat.
 
So today we start construction of our 2 New broadbills.It went alot smoother than I thought .The plans r detailed and every thing fit well.We managed to cut out all the pieces for both boats and assembled one boat.here's some pics of our progress .[inline]


Looks good! What is with the bulkheads that don't go to the bottom? Tests to see if they fit?

T
 
Yup,we were checking the fit wen I took the pics.They actually get cut so they r 3" wide so u can get to the storage under the deck,they don't go all the way to the bottom.The front bulkhead is solid which will hold in the floatation foam.
 
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So today we start construction of our 2 New broadbills.It went alot smoother than I thought .The plans r detailed and every thing fit well.We managed to cut out all the pieces for both boats and assembled one boat.here's some pics of our progress .[inline]


Looks good! What is with the bulkheads that don't go to the bottom? Tests to see if they fit?

T

Tod,

If I recall, the plans on the broadbill don't call for extending the bulkhead along the bottom like you see in many other builds. Not that you couldn't or shouldn't do it, but the plans don't call for it.

17_Bulkheadsinandfilleted.jpg


Ryan
 
Yup,we were checking the fit wen I took the pics.They actually get cut so they r 3" wide so u can get to the storage under the deck,they don't go all the way to the bottom.The front bulkhead is solid which will hold in the floatation foam.


OK! I forgot that there are only that many full bulkheads in the Broadbill.

Just to warn you, the feel good progress is about to slow way down now that you are at the filleting stage. If you haven't used it or read about it, consider peel ply on top of you fillets. Peel ply is a light fabric that epoxy moves through and is used as final ply once the fiberglass is wet out. It is torn off after the epoxy sets up and leaves a beautiful finish on the fiberglass of the fillets. It is really worth it, not many guys use it, but they should. I cut mine with 2" extending on each side of the fiberglass and it eliminates a ton of fairing and since you squeegee it when you put it on you remove excess epoxy and enf up with a higher glass to resin ratio.

T
 
Yes ,thats wat they will look like,I like the design because the bottom is open and wont hold water .Do u have some pics of complete boat? I'd like to c them.
 
Yes ,thats wat they will look like,I like the design because the bottom is open and wont hold water
That is a great aspect of stitch and glue - even in models with more bulkheads they drain very easily and that is good for longevity.
 
Jeff, Too late for you this time but when I built my Poleboat I stitched with plastic zip ties and didn't worry about getting them all out, just cut and go on. If you used wire and it looks like you did there are several methods of pulling them that can be found with a search here. One is to hook up a battery to heat the wire and melt the epoxy or use a torch to melt them out. I have not used wire ties so I can't vouch for either method. One thing I will say is not to leave wire in your boat, it will just corrode and leave a void. Even if you have to dig deep and patch later do that instead of leaving the wire in. Good Luck and keep posting. I'm starting to get the bug again maybe a couple kayaks or ?????? Scaup or ????
 
We used wire on these two boats,but I really like the zip tie idea,im gona use them on my next one.
 
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Jeff,

There are a couple here and if you search broadbill you will find more of mine and others from the site.

http://duckboats.net/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1006;search_string=broadbill;#1006

Good luck.

Ryan
 
Geez Jeff with this you'll have a whole fleet of boats. Keep us posted on how it goes. Maybe you can put Donnie's boat together while you're at it.
 
Yea your right Bill,I cant help myself.Ducks dogs decoys and now boats lol.Im already tryin to figure out what boat to build next,or maybe design my own lol.I bet I can build one faster than Donnie can,what do u think?
 
Those are looking great! Pulling the stitches is a pain, what I've settled on after building a few stitch and glue boats is to use epoxy tabs between the stitches, that way you can pull 90% of the stitches before you fillet and it makes the process go a lot faster. I leave the stitches in where there is a lot of stress like the bow rocker curve and right at the transom. The downside is you are committing yourself to filleting and glassing within 12 hours or so so you can get a chemical bond with the epoxy tabs.
 
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Also I remember you saying you are running a surface drive on your boat, you might want to think about beefing up the transom to take the extra stress from weight and torque that a mud motor will put on the transom. I run some longitudinals from the transom to the rear cockpit bulkhead on my boats, that makes the transom rock solid. Just an idea.
Here is what I came up with on a sneakboat I built last fall:
MotorBox.jpg

 
I gotcha,we were discussing working between the stitches but r still undecided how we r going to proceed.The plans call for to bulkheads running from rear bulkhead to the transom on an angle which will create 2 flotation pods in the corners.In between them im making the transom an inch thick.The motor board will b an inch thick also bolted with stainless.Copperhead just notified me the motor shipped today.
 
I gotcha,we were discussing working between the stitches but r still undecided how we r going to proceed.The plans call for to bulkheads running from rear bulkhead to the transom on an angle which will create 2 flotation pods in the corners.In between them im making the transom an inch thick.The motor board will b an inch thick also bolted with stainless.Copperhead just notified me the motor shipped today.


Some people have a tough time pulling stitches, most don't - may be the wire type. I just heated mine up and pulled them out. Any that give you trouble just take a big ole bit and drill out. Tabbing with peanut butter between wires works too.
 
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