Floor In Carsten Canvasback

John Lane

John Lane

Active member
I am looking for ideas to place a floor in my Canvasback. I want something lightweight and just high enough so that I do not have lay in the cold muddy water that accumulates in the bottom. Insulating would also be a plus, but not mandatory. Any thoughts would be appreciated!!
 
I built a slated floor using cedar fencing material. The slats were 7/16 thick attached to 3/4 thick cross members. It worked real well. I have pictures at home and will try to post them this evening.
 
Hi John...I as well have a Canvasback...I use bird and buck seats from Cabelas...they keep me off of the floor and the back ratchets to several different positions. The seats are pretty comfortable.

What do you use to power your Canvasback?

Thanks,

Mike
 
John,

I made the floor in several sections. A stern section, middle section and bow section. I addition there are two side sections which form a raised shelf on either side of the middle section.

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The bow section is the nearest section in the photo. The center slat in the stern section is shorter than the rest to allow access to the drain plug. The two side sections nest in on the outside of the support panels molded into the boat. they sit level when resting against the curvature of the hull.

In addition I used a "Invisalounge" seat cushion sold by MoMarsh . It is made using closed cell foam and it will not absorb any water.

Hope this helps you.
 
HuntinDave, thanks for the info and pics. I like that idea, especially the shelves. i just purchased the boat from my Father and I am excited to get it rigged up for next season. He built a wood frame around the opening and put lids on the boat. It gives you a bit more room on the top side and really keeps the wind out. However, I do plan to redesign it - You know - always something to improve upon - that is the fun part!

How do you camo up your boat? I have been thinking about this also. I would really be interested in seeing some pictures of your rig.

By the way, I grew up in Mt. Vernon, IA and went to Junior College in Estherville, IA. During the college days we really had great hunting in northwest Iowa. In southeast, we hunted Coralville Reservior mostly, out of a large jon boat with a blind on it. Good memories!!
 
Mike, I appreciate the info.

I power the boat with a 9.9 mercury. I extnended the gas line and place the fuel tank up in the bow. This helps with the weight distribution and gas fumes. The boat really moves along, even with all of my gear. I have wondered about strenghtening the transom. I do not trailer the boat with the motor on. Do you know if the transom is hollow?

What do power your rig with?

How do you camo your boat? I would be very interested to see some pics. Thanks!
 
I have been using a push pole...I own an 8 hp Tohatsu...maybe I should give that a try...as soon as I can figure out how to upload pictures I will post some!

Thanks Mike
 
John, I've used large rubber mats that I purchased at Sam's Club. They aren't a solid mat and have large holes in the pattern for drainage. They are designed more for restaurant workers or are for people who stand at their work areas for exteneded periods of time. They are about 3/4" thick and If memory serves me about 3x3. I just cut them to the shape of my floor and have used them on numerous duck boats that I've owned. They fit together but I made sure they stayed conntected with small cable ties. If I can find a picture, I'll post it soon.
 
I used a cedar sub-floor, similar to Dave's. Works great. I constructed the sub-floor within the boat, so if I want to take it out, i have to somewhat disassemble it. Not a problem since I never take it out. It really protects the bottom of the boat too and is lightweight. I'd go that route over the mats if it were me.
 
John - A friend just put some "he cut to fit" foam mats that are perferated (alot of holes) that he bought from Home Depot. The light weight mats were to be used to stand on - like in front of a cash register. They look good - are really light weight and do not absorb water. They might be what your looking for.
 
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How do you camo up your boat? I have been thinking about this also. I would really be interested in seeing some pictures of your rig.
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Thought you'd never ask. :>) :>)

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John.

I used 1x2 furring strips to build my floor. Very cheap, it can't rot if I take it out of the boat periodically. I sealed it with Cabot's oil stain and then added a couple of other colors. I built 2 2' x4' panels. I plan to use a MoMarsh seat in it. Right now I'm working on a locking cover for the boat for travel. After that I need to add a dodger. Dave McCann has some great ideas.

Bill
View attachment Can decking.JPG
View attachment Can cover.JPG
 
Dave, Thanks for the info and picks. I do think I like the idea of the wood floor best, as I have plenty of leftover cedar from our home construction project. I like the looks of your boat. It seems as if most people are hunting with their feet towards the motor. The few times I have used my canvasback and the way my father set it up, is too hunt facing the bow. The motor cover acts as a behind the head cover and we could both squeeze in there. I plan to hunt alone (with a dog) out of the boat. I may take one of the kids on occasion, but really need to get a different boat for that. For whatever reason, I like the idea of facing the bow. I understand the function of the spray dodger to keep the wind and duck eyes off your back. DOes it provide some relief when motoring in rough water. Have you had the boat out on any large rough waters? How did it perform??

I would like to get the lowest profile I can get. I am thinking about building 2 sets of lids that are split lengthwise down the middle of the opening and hinged on the edges of the opening. I would leave an open space for my head to see out of, covered with mesh or something). That way I can completely close up and then flip the lids open when I want to sit up to shoot. The ducks are quite spooky by the time they arrive here, and I want to hide in areas most people can not hide in.

I am just very excited to get to work on my boat. Duck season ended too quickly this year. Unfortunately, we are experiencing our best duck weather now, which is not good for working on boats or finishing houses!!

I am sure we will continue to talk as I begin to rig out my boat!
 
Hi Bill, Thanks for the info and picks. I like the wood floor. How are you constructing the lid? How much will it weigh when you finish?
 
I constructed the lid using a 1x4 pine frame, 1x3 pine "legs" to cover the sides, leaving an opening for the oarlock posts. On the top of the frame I ran a border of 1/4" lattice. I filled in the field with 1/4" luan plywood. I did it this way since the outside of the cockpit dimensions is over 8'. Everything is glued and screwed (probably overkill). I'm fiberglassing the cover, will just epoxy the underside of the lid for waterproofing. I plan to put a pin up front with a hasp and eye on the back. The lid weighs maybe 20 pounds, maybe a little less. I have some additional photos if you're interested.

Here is step one, the base piece of luan.
View attachment Luan lid.JPG

This gave me the basic dimensions for the frame. Here's the view from the bow as I test-fit before filling the counter-sunk screw heads.
View attachment Cover from bow.JPG

And then the view from the side showing how I came over the oarlock posts. Once I got done with this I eased all the edges with a sanded and filled and sanded the screw holes. I hope this makes sense.
View attachment Cover from side.JPG
 
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Hey Bill, nice design on the lid. I will definately be building something like that. I want to keep the weather out, so I can keep my gear stored in the boat.
 
This site is awesome! I am getting some great ideas. How long till duck season???? I guess I do have some work to do first!!
 
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