Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, All~
A friend just asked me what keel-style I would out on E Allen Black Ducks - for gunning on the south shore of Long Island (tidal saltwater bays). One tradition there was begun - as far as I know - by Mister Decoy - Al McCormick. He put his keels wide and flat so that the decoys would remain upright when the tide ran out and the mud or sand was exposed. As many of us have found, one can still shoot Black Ducks and other puddle ducks in such conditions. So, I recommended a flush keel for my friends Allen decoys.
I have just a few E Allen decoys: 10 "Mallards' (painted at 6 Mallards and 4 Blacks) and 3 Wood Ducks. These decoys are used on protected waters and are often carried in. So, they have both unballasted keels and light anchors. ng
BTW: Self-righting is a desirable trait in "big rig" decoys - especially Broadbill. But, I always place my puddlers on the water - instead of tossing them. So, the absence of self-righting is not a problem. Later in the season - when frost is in the air - I am very careful to not get the topsides of my decoys when when rigging pre-dawn.
Here are the 4 Blacks - after I coated them with epoxy+fine sawdust - then new paint.
View attachment AFTER - Flock A.jpg
I use pyramid or bank sinkers for such rigs - each weighing an ounce or 3. These have about 4 feet of line. I like a relatively heavy (1/8-inch or 72#) tarred nylon for handling and tangling resistance.
View attachment E Allen Black Duck - high-head.JPG
Note how the White Pine keel is taller at each end - for maximum adhesion (gluing surface) in the molded slot - but only a full inch or so in the middle - to save weight.
View attachment AFTER - Keel.jpg
I have not tried these in heavy seas, winds or currents. I would experiment with external ballast keel weights - starting with maybe 6 ounces. Their added dimension would still allow a high-and-dry decoy to sit upright.
The lower :"factory" keel weight has a single mounting hole. They need 2 to prevent spinning. I bore new holes - countersunk - in each end for positive attachment via s/s screws.
View attachment E Allen - Keel Weights.JPG
Molds for such weights are very easy to make with a core-box bit in a router and some hardwood.
View attachment Homemade Keel Weiught with Oak Mold.JPG
Anyone else use flush or flat keels on open water decoys?
All the best,
SJS
A friend just asked me what keel-style I would out on E Allen Black Ducks - for gunning on the south shore of Long Island (tidal saltwater bays). One tradition there was begun - as far as I know - by Mister Decoy - Al McCormick. He put his keels wide and flat so that the decoys would remain upright when the tide ran out and the mud or sand was exposed. As many of us have found, one can still shoot Black Ducks and other puddle ducks in such conditions. So, I recommended a flush keel for my friends Allen decoys.
I have just a few E Allen decoys: 10 "Mallards' (painted at 6 Mallards and 4 Blacks) and 3 Wood Ducks. These decoys are used on protected waters and are often carried in. So, they have both unballasted keels and light anchors. ng
BTW: Self-righting is a desirable trait in "big rig" decoys - especially Broadbill. But, I always place my puddlers on the water - instead of tossing them. So, the absence of self-righting is not a problem. Later in the season - when frost is in the air - I am very careful to not get the topsides of my decoys when when rigging pre-dawn.
Here are the 4 Blacks - after I coated them with epoxy+fine sawdust - then new paint.
View attachment AFTER - Flock A.jpg
I use pyramid or bank sinkers for such rigs - each weighing an ounce or 3. These have about 4 feet of line. I like a relatively heavy (1/8-inch or 72#) tarred nylon for handling and tangling resistance.
View attachment E Allen Black Duck - high-head.JPG
Note how the White Pine keel is taller at each end - for maximum adhesion (gluing surface) in the molded slot - but only a full inch or so in the middle - to save weight.
View attachment AFTER - Keel.jpg
I have not tried these in heavy seas, winds or currents. I would experiment with external ballast keel weights - starting with maybe 6 ounces. Their added dimension would still allow a high-and-dry decoy to sit upright.
The lower :"factory" keel weight has a single mounting hole. They need 2 to prevent spinning. I bore new holes - countersunk - in each end for positive attachment via s/s screws.
View attachment E Allen - Keel Weights.JPG
Molds for such weights are very easy to make with a core-box bit in a router and some hardwood.
View attachment Homemade Keel Weiught with Oak Mold.JPG
Anyone else use flush or flat keels on open water decoys?
All the best,
SJS