Momarsh DP problem

Someone just had one of these on FB that had the exact same problem. came apart at the seam. Need more photos to help solve the problem, how about some of the joing that seperated, maybe the whole boat. But this is the second one in a few weeks that I have seen with this same problem. And could very well be busted from water inside and froze and popped.
 
The first thing would be to contact the manufacturer to see if this has happened and what they did to fix the problem. If that doesn't resolve your problem then I would try to determine what caused it to happen. Did the foam get wet and expand to cause the separation. If that is the case then you will want to resolve the wet foam issue before making the repair or it will most likely happen again. As far as the repair goes you would want to get the two halves in the proper position, sand both surfaces and bond them together with thickened two part epoxy. I think this approach would work well for DIY repair. Good luck


Tom.
 



The boat was dry when I layed it up for winter, we use the 1860 Pro Drive when ice up starts. It looks like the adhesive used to sandwich the top to the hull is letting loose. I was thinking about a marine grade adhesive and then screwing them together?
 
If I am seeing correctly that looks like white adhesive? If thats 5200 thats probably the problem. Improper preperation and using 5200 to bond the 2 halves together. have you tried to see if you can seperate the deck and hull? seems likely that if its letting go in that area that odds are good it will also fail elsewhere. I would recommend plexus adhesives to put it back together but thats not a consumer friendly product as it requires a special gun to dispense and is very expensive, but it works simple as that. Tom's right the easiest fix is probably thickened epoxy with some cabosil or milled fibers will do the job if you sand and prep that halves. find alot of clamps and simply put back together.

5200 is a decent product but its not for structural bonding.

Another cheap alternative would be to shoot it full of 5200 again and rivet it together. wont be pretty but will work and the 5200 should be fine since the rivets are the structural hold and the 5200 is simply providing a waterproof seal.
 
To determine which type of adhesive was used 5200 will have a rubbery feel. If it is along the line of plexus it will be quite hard. Plexus comes in several colors as does 5200. Keep in mind that it didn't just come apart for no reason. Even if they used 5200 it should have held. something forced it apart.


Tom.
 
The edges do not feel like they are rubbery, and I don't want to separate the top from the hull as goose season starts Saturday, and then we go into duck season full bore. I use the tow loop quite often, not only to tow it behind the Pro Drive but also to pull it onto the trailer from steep "boat ramps" and road ditches, and I'm pretty sure that the loop is only attached to the hull? If the 5200 and rivitting will make it watertight and structurally sound I'll go that route.
 
5200 could take up 72hrs to fully cure. I you want something that is faster go with 3M 4200 It will cure over night.
 
Tony, you are not seeing things correctly- you know what they say about online assumptions...

Curt, please email me and we can steer you down the right road to a repair.

ira@momarsh.com

Thanks, Ira

If I am seeing correctly that looks like white adhesive? If thats 5200 thats probably the problem. Improper preperation and using 5200 to bond the 2 halves together. have you tried to see if you can seperate the deck and hull? seems likely that if its letting go in that area that odds are good it will also fail elsewhere. I would recommend plexus adhesives to put it back together but thats not a consumer friendly product as it requires a special gun to dispense and is very expensive, but it works simple as that. Tom's right the easiest fix is probably thickened epoxy with some cabosil or milled fibers will do the job if you sand and prep that halves. find alot of clamps and simply put back together.

5200 is a decent product but its not for structural bonding.

Another cheap alternative would be to shoot it full of 5200 again and rivet it together. wont be pretty but will work and the 5200 should be fine since the rivets are the structural hold and the 5200 is simply providing a waterproof seal.
Click to expand...
 
If I am seeing correctly that looks like white adhesive? If thats 5200 thats probably the problem. Improper preperation and using 5200 to bond the 2 halves together. have you tried to see if you can seperate the deck and hull? seems likely that if its letting go in that area that odds are good it will also fail elsewhere. I would recommend plexus adhesives to put it back together but thats not a consumer friendly product as it requires a special gun to dispense and is very expensive, but it works simple as that. Tom's right the easiest fix is probably thickened epoxy with some cabosil or milled fibers will do the job if you sand and prep that halves. find alot of clamps and simply put back together.

5200 is a decent product but its not for structural bonding.

Another cheap alternative would be to shoot it full of 5200 again and rivet it together. wont be pretty but will work and the 5200 should be fine since the rivets are the structural hold and the 5200 is simply providing a waterproof seal.
Click to expand...


Actually, 5200 is a great product for joining decks and hulls. Used in hundreds of thousands of boats for that application. Even says so on the website

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200?N=5510818+3294314620+3294314622&rt=rud

"Stress caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking is effectively absorbed. Check the bonding and sealing jobs this product can handle for you: fiberglass deck to fiberglass hull, wood to fiberglass, portholes and deck fittings, motors on fiberglass transoms, under mouldings, hull seams above and below water line. Center board trunk joints. Between struts and planking. Stern joints. Deck housing, etc. Easy to apply with manual caulking gun. Won't sag or flow in vertical or horizontal seams."

With that said, this does not look like a 5200 prodiuct. They way in which 5200 would fail is not what is shown in this photo. Not the best photo but my guess is it is not 5200.

As mentioned, if you need a quick curing product, go with the 4200. Little trick is to spritz the adhesive sealant with a little water before joining the two halves. These are moisture curing urethanes.

Mark W
 
Curt, I know it seems like a big deal but it's not… the timing makes it worse… Had the same thing happen w/ different manufacturer one year on opening weekend… timing stinks but the fix is minor.

Ira will get you fixed up!
 
If I am seeing correctly that looks like white adhesive? If thats 5200 thats probably the problem. Improper preperation and using 5200 to bond the 2 halves together. have you tried to see if you can seperate the deck and hull? seems likely that if its letting go in that area that odds are good it will also fail elsewhere. I would recommend plexus adhesives to put it back together but thats not a consumer friendly product as it requires a special gun to dispense and is very expensive, but it works simple as that. Tom's right the easiest fix is probably thickened epoxy with some cabosil or milled fibers will do the job if you sand and prep that halves. find alot of clamps and simply put back together.

5200 is a decent product but its not for structural bonding.

Another cheap alternative would be to shoot it full of 5200 again and rivet it together. wont be pretty but will work and the 5200 should be fine since the rivets are the structural hold and the 5200 is simply providing a waterproof seal.
Click to expand...


Actually, 5200 is a great product for joining decks and hulls. Used in hundreds of thousands of boats for that application. Even says so on the website

http://solutions.3m.com/...294314622&rt=rud

"Stress caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking is effectively absorbed. Check the bonding and sealing jobs this product can handle for you: fiberglass deck to fiberglass hull, wood to fiberglass, portholes and deck fittings, motors on fiberglass transoms, under mouldings, hull seams above and below water line. Center board trunk joints. Between struts and planking. Stern joints. Deck housing, etc. Easy to apply with manual caulking gun. Won't sag or flow in vertical or horizontal seams."

With that said, this does not look like a 5200 prodiuct. They way in which 5200 would fail is not what is shown in this photo. Not the best photo but my guess is it is not 5200.

As mentioned, if you need a quick curing product, go with the 4200. Little trick is to spritz the adhesive sealant with a little water before joining the two halves. These are moisture curing urethanes.

Mark W
Click to expand...

Mark, thats a whole other thread topic. But Using 5200 for a stress joint without through bolting or riveting is a bad idea. Trust me our first 2 layout boats we ever had built were put together with 5200 and well lets just say they didnt fair to well. The joint failed in less than 3 weeks. 5200 is a great product no doubt when using with through bolting or riveting for structural joints but I will never again even attempt to 5200 a hull deck joint with 5200 thats not bolted or riveted.
 


Got the DP fixed and back in the water, shot it full of 5200 and bolted the flange together with 8 1/4" SS bolts and washers. Locked it up like a block of cheese.
 
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