paint of choice

C

chester sadowski

Active member
Im almost done 7 doz foamer's that i have burlaped over the past couple weekends and want to know what would be the best way to got with paint. I intend on making them into sea ducks and maybe a few divers. Really trying to close this project out before the season hits so i can get everything else together. I have talked to a couple of guys about what paint to use and i figured i would get a broader opinion. I was thinking about using golden acrylic and/or rustoleum. I really want to use the paint that is going to hold up the best. I really cant see bagging all the decoys, but will use totes to keep them of the deck. Cost is important, but im willing to give a few extra bucks on a paint that will make'm last longer. I wanted to know also if i went the acrylic route if i needed some special primer or if it would even hold on the mastic. So i guess i leave it to see what kind of feed back i get...


thanks chester


bye the way thank you everyone that gave me advise on burlaping/ reslte coating.... It was fun but tried it on too many with no time and grumpy pregnant wife
 
On burlapped Herters I've had good luck with a base of Kilz primer with a topcoat of Rustoleum and then Goldens for any detail work. I've also been using some FME and have been very happy.

Gene
 
Rustoleum and FME are both enamels and solvent based. They can be topcoated with Goldens when dry. I believe you are correct not to mix oil and acrylic paints.

Gene
 
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because I will admit I am not the most knowledgeable about paints, but I thought any alkyd/solvent base paint is considered oil base. I just looked up lou's site, he lists FME as oil based. I know you can mix tube oil paints with rustoleum to get desired colors, but not acrylics. i though it had to do with the gases or oils evaporating or something?
 
because I will admit I am not the most knowledgeable about paints, but I thought any alkyd/solvent base paint is considered oil base. I just looked up lou's site, he lists FME as oil based. I know you can mix tube oil paints with rustoleum to get desired colors, but not acrylics. i though it had to do with the gases or oils evaporating or something?
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FME is definitely an oil-based, flat, marine enamel. You can NOT mix with acrylics or latex while wet. Once they are dry/cured, you can paint one over the other with no problem. I've been doing it for years. Be sure the substrate is dry/cured prior to painting.

The FME, even though it's a solvent based, oil enamel, you can paint it on styrofoam with no problem. I've tested it a bunch with no solvent attack. Now, if you are using lacquer paints.........the solvent will dissolve the styrofoam.
Lou
 
Water based over oil is fine. Not the reverse, but this isn't about painting a house or car.

With oil over water at worst the paint will craze/crack - & I doubt it would hurt anything.
 
Water based over oil is fine. Not the reverse, but this isn't about painting a house or car.

With oil over water at worst the paint will craze/crack - & I doubt it would hurt anything.
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You've got it backwards if you are talking about artist/tube oil paint.
 
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I never use artists tube paints (when I made working decoys I was fine with Rustoleum & would tint with tube from time to time), but a fundamental of painting is that water based can cover oil. Oil will crack/craze over water based.

A friend of mine makes high end custom furniture. He purposefully paints oil based over water to get crazing/cracking to make new furniture look old.
 
"I never use artists tube paints (when I made working decoys I was fine with Rustoleum & would tint with tube from time to time), but a fundamental of painting is that water based can cover oil. Oil will crack/craze over water based.

A friend of mine makes high end custom furniture. He purposefully paints oil based over water to get crazing/cracking to make new furniture look old."

[This totally is at odds with what some of the well-known decoy carvers/painters teach in their classes. They commonly use a water-based gesso base coat and then paint over that with tube oils with good success. Flat work artists preach the same mantra---oil over acrylics but not the reverse.]
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Gesso has always struck me more as a filler than a primer (from what I've read).

Go ask the salesman at your local Benjamin Moore paint store if putting an oil base finish over water based primer is a good idea.
 
I stand by what I posted. Water-based gesso has an acrylic binder and has excellent "tooth" for subsequent application of either oils or acrylics. As I said, artists have used it as a primer for years and still recommend doing so. Granted, it's only been around for about 50 years so only time will tell whether it is truly durable as a primer for tube oil paints.
 
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