Scarfing

D

David G

New member
I am ready to start my BBIII was wandering if anyone had a simple way to cut them or if the Gougeon brothers Jig is the way to go. Also what are your thoughts of covering the bottom with kevlar?
THANKS for any input David G.
 
Google scarfing jig and there are a few step by step where people made there own jigs but the one by the G.B. looks like the best way to go also ask brad from toller boat works I think he uses kevlar
 
I use a grinder w/ 80 grit paper...we refer to it as the "wood eraser"...we stack up ply and space it out like steps in a 12:1 ratio...using the layers of the ply as a guide we erase until it looks uniform, and even....then flip, slather exopy w/ colloidal silica and clap....the sanding creates LOTS of dust, but its pretty quick....
 
Don't waste your money on a jig. A belt sander and 40 grit is what I use.

Kevlar isn't needed for most applications and is more difficult to wet out than regular glass. Some of the builders have used it though and will likely offer their oppions.
 
David:

Go with Pete, Chuck and Tom's advice...you will find that building with stitch and glue is a very forgiving process. Very few mistakes are "unfixable". It may cost a hundred bucks a sheet, but it's only plywood!

Have fun.

Kevin
 
The problem with the GB jig is that it does not cut all the way through on 9mm (3/8) plywood. Also the wood is trapped by the guide and the saw blade and it does not cut as straight as you would like.

I used one that I borrowed and then drilled holes in my saw plate to match up the holes in the jig.

If I just would have made a jig for the belt sander or done it free hand I would have saved a day of my time or more.

There are several good posts all over the internet about belt sanding scarfs for kayaks and boats. Jig building how tos as well for belt sanders.
 
On the big wood and epoxy sportfish boats we build, we use the stack method already mentioned.The spacing determines the ratio of the scarfs I think 6 to 1 is sufficient, you could go higher if you want. we are triple planking with kevlar hybrid between the layers and a couple of e glass and kevlars inside and out so 6 to 1 works for us I think I would go maybe 8 to 1 if I were single planking. We use visqueen between the glue up joints and some waxed drywall screws to keep the joints from sliding out of alignment. If these joints fit right and the glue isnt too thick the drywall screws are all the clamping pressure needed. If you have an electric planer it eats a lot of wood in a hurry, just detail it with a belt sander or pad sander. By the way we put some scrap one by four on top and bottom of the joints to help the drywall screws pressure to even out. the visqueeh is the release agent. Rich
 
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