shell lake mallard queen I.D.

Scarphed some new cedar on deck pieces


fitted and epoxied to deck beams


pulled out some more bad decking

 
Ive had those cans for years. They hold all the boat building hardware. The bronze brass and copper. I always know where its at. Heres another shot of a side deck.

It needs finishing of course, just roughed in
 
Bob,

I hope you are going to canvas the outside of this boat, after all the great woodwork you did restoring it? The shape of this boat would be a lot easier to canvas, than a canoe would be.

Check the archives for Craig Carters posts on his Shell Lake Mallard Queen, he bought from me. He sent his boat to a place in Maine, I believe, to have it completely restored.

The filling of the canvas and proper care of the craft after restoration is crucial for a long life. Make sure the boat hull is completely in the water before you get in. I've seen guys with nice cedar strip canoes have half of the craft up on shore and step in and push the rest of it in with the paddle. "That's what the fiberglass strip on the end of the paddle is for", is their response.

Great job on a fine old boat!!

Art
 
Art, I know its a no no but its glass on this one. Im not intimidated by the canvas,just this one had a lot of problems that it made it a good candidate for glass. I have taken the measurments and if a new one is buily it will be canvas. I saw Craig Carters post and have contacted him. His boat was done by a pro and turned out fantastic. Thanks for your imput as I came across pics of your old boat . bob
 

its back out of the shop . I had time to put all my tools away and straighten up a bit. I didnt get around to cutting the grass though!
 
Ok bob ,what's your address? I'm coming over to help, or watch, or what ever. Just kidding, no really ,what's your address? ( just kidding)
 
Kip, nobody wants to come to Chicago . With all the shootings lately maybe Kevlar should be the covering of choice. Looking for a pic of an original seat that would have gone with the boat if anyone has one.Also on the subject of oar lock positions. It looks like the placement would allow the oarsman to use the seat in back or in the front of the locks depending on the load or if shooting with another hunter. I wonder if anyone can elaborate on this.
 
Kip, nobody wants to come to Chicago . With all the shootings lately maybe Kevlar should be the covering of choice. Looking for a pic of an original seat that would have gone with the boat if anyone has one.Also on the subject of oar lock positions. It looks like the placement would allow the oarsman to use the seat in back or in the front of the locks depending on the load or if shooting with another hunter. I wonder if anyone can elaborate on this.
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Bob,
Actually, my wife & I'll be heading over to Chicago this weekend with some friends from Elkhart. We're going to a Cubs game at Wrigley Field. That's one of my buddy's "bucket list items" so we're making a weekend of it.

Here's a Mallard Queen seat if memory works at my age. ;) This is one that Tom Wilkins has and I shot some photos of it when I was over there back in Nov last year.


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View attachment MallQueen-Seat-04.jpg
 
Thanks again Lou that is just what I needed. Happy birthday again. Have fun at the Cubs game, call me if you need anything while you are here. Bob
 

wetted out hull and glassed very bottom I have the faired the lower part with epoxy and cabosil mixture and have to sand it down
 
Bob~

You're flying along!

A couple of questions:

1) Do you let your first coat of resin cure to serve as a sealer ?

2) Did you have to fill the seams before applying resin? If so, what did you use?

3) Will you be putting a single layer of 'glass (6 oz? 10 oz?) on the hull with it doubled over the keel area?

All the best,

SJS
 
I tried Lou's method of using 3m windshield sealant on the big gaps,so far so good. I mixed up a batch of resin with cabosil added and squeeged it over the whole boat. This stuff was more resin than cabosil but still had body. While this was setting up I cut the 6 oz cloth to roughly the shape of the bottom and layed it in the already wet surface and applied just resin over that. I don't know if it's acceptable or not but it works for me. I can squeegee the resin on top of the cloth and smooth the thickens epoxy underneath at the same time
 
Bob~

Sounds like you've nailed it - with all the materials and layers curing together.

Thanks for the info abut Lou's 3M adhesive. Your thread and his are great tutorials.

All the best,

SJS
 
viewer

 

setting up. I redid my outside work area the last couple of day after looking at some pics I had posted earlier in this thread. It looked awful so I laid down some block.
 
Well the weather shut me out today of fiberglassing so I made a stool. Thanks Lou for the inspiration . It needs finish sanding.


 
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