The 1939 Champion Outboard lives!

Scott O.

Scott O.

Well-known member
Back in February, I posted about the old motor I bought when I picked up my Aerocraft duckboat

"1939 Champion 2.9 HP S1E Standard Single This 2.9 horsepower Champion outboard, manufactured in 1939, is a freshwater model. The engine weight is recorded at 31 lbs. This is a 1 cylinder model. The displacement for the pistons is 6.23. The bore for this outboard is 2.12 inches and the stroke is 1.75 inches. This engine has power steering and a rope-type starter."

I donated it to my buddy, the local High School Head Football coach, to use as a team fundraiser (being a "Champion" and all). He just told me last night that his brother-in-law had it up and running and just needs a couple of additional tweaks to be as good as almost new.

Seems that the linkage from the magneto lever to the carb is missing. Also there was a lot of rust on the inside of the gas tank and a couple of pinholes that need repair. He thinks there may be a sealer that can be put in the tank to stop the leaks.

They are cleaning up the brass and considering taking the paint job to a local guy who specializes in antique auto restoration.

I am glad it seems to have new life and will post any pics they take.


View attachment champion3.jpg
 
Scott, I dont remember who makes it but there is a product that you can pour in a gas tank to coat it and seal up any ruct. I used to have an old McCllough motor with a built in tank and I used it on it. Seemed to work ok. Steve
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900056

A gas tank sealer.

I have not used that particular brand but a few years ago I restored an older Toyota pickup gas tank with a similar product...

The Steps:

1. Remove old gas or the left overs.

2. Degrease outside of tank if needed.

3. Wash inside of tank with hot water and dish soap solution, I used boiling water.

4. Rinse tank of the soap (pain in the butt).

5. Place enough steel shot inside the tank that when you shake the tank it rolls and bounces around scrubbing the inside...It takes awhile to get it clean..

6. Inspect tank looking for pin holes...I placed a light inside the tank while in a dark room.

7. More scrubbing with shot if needed..and more inspections

8. I used brick wash acid (muriatic/hydrochloric) to get rid of a small amount of rust that did not "ping" out... Be careful and clean well

9. Once the tank is clean and you have found the larger pin holes I would carefully solder them.

10. Follow directions on sealer product..

That Toyota trucks tank is darn near as good as new...

I bought the sealer I used at a ATV/Motorcycle dealership

Matt
 
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What you are looking for is called "Kreem", I am doing an old motorcycle tank right now. Works really well but a bit spendy.
 
Thats great Scott. You can use BB's for the steel shot. I had a gas tractor that the gas tank had rusted. A 1/2 pint of crossman BB's did the trick. That was 5 years ago and it is still clean.
 
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