Trailering a Black Brant 3

Kevin T

Active member
I need to find a trailer for my BB3 project. Interested in thoughts on trailer length, width, axle rating, etc...It's 14'4" long and 5'10" wide but it's not like most BB3's in that it doesn't have the motor cutout. Instead this boat has the motor mounted on the rear transom like most conventional outboards.

The boat will be used in fresh water only. It weighs 225 pounds per specs and will have a 30hp Mariner that weighs 115 pounds. Gear will add additional weight.

Does anyone have experience with trailering this type of boat and do you have any suggestions for a good trailer setup? Pics would be great.

Also, new or used? Thanks.

Kevin
 
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Kevin,

The difficulty in finding a trailer for the BB3 is the width of the boat. I went with a Karavan all Galvanized trailer made in Fox Lake, WI. I don't remember the specs off hand but it fit the width like a glove but was longer than I would have wanted. The upside is that the longer length is much easier to back down a ramp and is spec'd for a higher weight boat. Take a look on their web site or visit a local dealer.

Oh, the question on new or used................new because you can pick out the correct trailer for the boat and you aren't buying someone elses problems. Get the LED lights if you can and don't forget a spare tire. Karavan has a flow through grease system so when you pump new grease into the hub the oldest grease comes out first.
 
Kevin,

I'm not an expert, but have been trailering around a Devlin BB2 and Broadbill for a while. The Broadbill is on a Karavan, and the BB2 is on a custom built trailer from Sureride (out of Maben, MS).

The Sureride is 1200 lbs capacity w/4.80x12 tires and has held up fine carrying the BB2, engine, 6 gallons gas, 6+ dozen weighteed keel dekes plus longlines w/ anchors, plus. plus...... for many hunting trips. Even filled the boat with dekes to the top of the combing and towed the rig from MS to WA.

I'd try to get an axle with the flow thru grease system (zerk fittings in the end of the spindle w/ a passage to the space beteen the axle seal and inner bearing) like Pete mentioned. My karavan came with them and they are the bomb. Champion Trailer also sells them. My BB2 trailer has regular spindles, and packing bearings is no fun, plus, I had to install bearing buddies to deal w/salt water here in WA.

I think galvanized is worth the extra bucks. Not necessary for fresh water, but it will protect your investment.

LED lights last much, much longer than conventional taillights, unless you are like me and run them into things. Will be buying a new starboard taillight soon as I'm sure the duck tape is not keeping the saltwater out : (

Recommend 2 sets of carpeted bunks for the boat to set on, wide side against the boat to keep down the stress points. Had wood only bunks when initially setting up the Broadbill on its first trailer- wore through the paint and started eating into the epoxy at the contact points. No wear from sitting on carpet (and I have many towing miles and launches on the BB2 now). Side bunks or roller guides are very useful, especially in the weather we hunt in.

With the transome position on your BB3 the Center of Gravity (CG) of your rig will be differnt than mine. On a BB2/BB3 with the normal motorwell cutout the CG of the boat w/engine in farther forward, so the axles on a lot of standard trailers are too far back to achieve proper tongue weight. However, I would even move the axle on my Karavan forward, if I could. From your description, I assume your engine is farther back, so you may not have an issue, or at least less of one. I would weight the wheels and tongue and look at how the boat sits on the trailer before locking in the bow stop location. CG/ axle location is why I had my BB2 trailer custom made.

You probably know BB2/BB3 are fairly close on the beam/length, and I think the attached dimensions are close to optimal for a BB2/BB3 with motorwell cutout (at least, they work for me).

You may be able to save a ton buying used, but make sure you know what you are looking at. I did not know squat on my first Broabill trailer (bought a cheap used jonboat rig for the engine and tailer), and ended up taking the trailer to the scrap yard after one year. At a minimum, pull the hubs and inspect bearings.

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Have a great season!

-Bill
 
Bill, You can upgrade to grease thru hubs on those standard spindles. I've been using these for over 10 years and have them on two trailers. The main drawback with the design is that access to the zirk fitting is a bit of a pain but well worth it in saltwater use. The only problem I've had with them in that time is the zirk fitting. They use press in ones that eventually loosen up and become unreliable. After replacing the press in zirks once I got serious and drilled & tapped the hubs for 1/8"-unc zirk fittings and was back in business.

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Scott
 
Bill:

Thanks for the great input. The width of the trailer is what I'm most interested in. Your trailer is 60" wide between the fenders but it looks like the boat rides well above the wheels...I found a pretty good 48" trailer but don't know if the boat would ride high enough to clear the fenders. Great looking rigs.

Kevin
 
Kevin,

My trailer is 68" between the fenders which just happens to be what the boat is also. Works great. I never liked a boat's hull sitting up higher than the fenders. It might be OK but just looks too unstable to me.
 
I need to find a trailer for my BB3 project. Interested in thoughts on trailer length, width, axle rating, etc...It's 14'4" long and 5'10" wide but it's not like most BB3's in that it doesn't have the motor cutout. Instead this boat has the motor mounted on the rear transom like most conventional outboards.

The boat will be used in fresh water only. It weighs 225 pounds per specs and will have a 30hp Mariner that weighs 115 pounds. Gear will add additional weight.

Does anyone have experience with trailering this type of boat and do you have any suggestions for a good trailer setup? Pics would be great.

Also, new or used? Thanks.

Kevin


My best advice is to take some time getting it set up so that the bunks contact the hull in an area of support, rathert than in no mans land in the middle of the hull. Additionally, on the bunk brackets, I really want them on a bulkhead, especially in the stern where the weight is going to press down hard. On mine I have it set up such that the reart and forward brackets holding the bunks sit directly under the bulkheads, I think that is ideal, but I would for sure have the rears supported under bulkheads.

Trailer on vs in dowen't matter a whole lot to me as long as it doesnt' impede your launch. having the boat low enough on the trailer such thath you can launch with your truck tires as far away from the water and ice is best. Some trailers let you get the boat down in/on better than others.

T
 
Good point about being low on the trailer. On inland lakes and rivers with good steep launches I never had an issue. However, here in WA, depending on tides, some of the ramps can get very shallow. I adjusted the bunks as far down as I could (keelson is about 1/2" from a crossmember now) to float the boat with less water in an effort to minimize how much truck gets in the salt water.

-Bill
 
Scott,

Thanks. I have an extra pair of standard hubs, and you just gave me a good project for the drill press.

-Bill
 
Bill,

Now that you mention it, I too have a few extra hubs kicking around somewhere. Sounds like a worth while project to have back ups.

Scott
 
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