Sneakbox Restoration

Just catching up on some progress reports. The fairing is completed. Even though the deck was in much better shape than the hull it still took a good bit of fairing work - at least to get it right. It does seem that the thicker the mixture, the less repeated application will be necessary. It is somewhat like spackle in that deeper fills will almost always require two applications and no matter how hard you look there is always a spot that was missed. Process was mix, apply, allow to harden and sand with 80 weight on the orbital sander - Repeat as necessary.View attachment IMG_8739.JPGView attachment IMG_8741.JPG
 
One more update. After one more sanding I laid out the fabric. Since I had the length and width I decided to make the deck in one piece. Was also able to wrap it under the feather edge and the transom. I used a sharpie to outline the cockpit so I wouldn't lose track of the shape once I started cutting the clothe. When I was cutting the excess fabric before applying the resin it did pull away from cockpit a little so I anchored it with painters tape. This caused ed the cut edge to fray a bit but not much after I realized I needed to be more careful. Something I learned when glassing the hull was that if to much excess was left on during the resin application the it would be too heavy to wrap to the other side of the feather edge. It would only hang straight. First coat of West went on with squeegee and some brush work. Second coat went on with just the brush. 4" chip brush made it go pretty quick. Needed 25 pumps of West.View attachment IMG_8742.JPGView attachment IMG_8746.JPGView attachment IMG_8747.JPG
 
Bob

That is coming along very nicely. I think you will be glad you wrapped the feather edge in cloth. Should give it needed protection in that vulnerable area. Maybe even add some 4" tape around the perimeter for good measure.

Keep the reports coming.

Eric
 
Gorgeous, Bob!


Ever use a longboard for fairing? Easy enough to make one with a scrap of 1/2-inch plywood (across the grain) and a pair of handles. Sure helps with the bumps and hollows.


I will be using one when I re-deck my Mystery Sneakbox this Winter.


All the best,


SJS

 
Thanks! Will do. I did consider the tape, but the feather edge now has two layers of clothe, the second overlapping from top to bottom. I also have the original strips of metal that will be reattached before painting.

Eric Patterson said:
Bob

That is coming along very nicely. I think you will be glad you wrapped the feather edge in cloth. Should give it needed protection in that vulnerable area. Maybe even add some 4" tape around the perimeter for good measure.

Keep the reports coming.

Eric
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Steve! If I do something like this again I will look into a longboard. Honestly a project like this highlights the adage that sometimes "you don't know what you don't know". That's what makes this site and the included posts so helpful in restorations like mine.


Steve Sanford said:
Gorgeous, Bob!


Ever use a longboard for fairing? Easy enough to make one with a scrap of 1/2-inch plywood (across the grain) and a pair of handles. Sure helps with the bumps and hollows.


I will be using one when I re-deck my Mystery Sneakbox this Winter.


All the best,


SJS
Click to expand...
 
BTW, for those of you that like tools, several companies make pneumatic longboards. I used them for years in my Ferrari/Rolls Royce days. Still have the "manual" one with clips around here some place. Also, most auto parts stores, at least those that carry a lot of autobody stuff, carry the sand paper strips to fit commercially produced long boards.
Gary
 
Just an updated [progress report. I completed some additional fairing along the combing and feather edge and after sanding proceeded to prime top and bottom with two coats of Pettit epoxy primer. This past Saturday I applied two coats of Pettit Dull Dead Grass separated by some perch fishing up the Mullica River with my Dad. The primer was a little thick, but the dull dead grass went on nice and smooth with a low nap roller. The sheen in the pictures is due to it still being wet. One lesson learned at that during the glassing of the topside I was a bit careless with excess resin which resulted in runs on the hull. Consequently this resulted in some additional sanding and time loss. oarlocks and boat handles for the transom have been ordered.View attachment IMG_8883.JPGView attachment IMG_8884.JPG
 
Nice Job!!!f

How long does it take for those sheets to dry once the epoxy is rolled over them? I'm thinking of adding more material to the floor of my glass duck boat, so I'm curious :)
 
GregL said:
Nice Job!!!f

How long does it take for those sheets to dry once the epoxy is rolled over them? I'm thinking of adding more material to the floor of my glass duck boat, so I'm curious :)
Click to expand...

If you mean the fiberglass clothe, I?m using the slow Hardener so a few hours even with summer humidity.
 
Eric Patterson said:
Bob

She's looking great. Going to have it ready for the season?

Eric
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Thanks Eric! That?s still my goal. Topside should get painted this weekend then I can put on the finishing touches. In the meantime I still want to set up the trailer a little better and cut some grass. Our south zone starts in the middle of October, but my real goal is early November when our coastal zone kicks off.
 
Two coats on the topside. One Friday night and one Saturday. Pettit has an additive that should make the paint more durable and that was added the second coat top and bottom. Originally I had bought a single quart, but have needed part of a second to finish the job. More lessons learned. The most efficient use the paint was with an epoxy roller, the least was with a regular low nap roller for smooth surfaces. Using a 3" chip brush wasn't bad, one cup of paint to do a full topside coat plus. As you can see I haven't yet placed a bow eye or other fixture for the trailer connection to the bow. I'm going to first get the boat on the trailer and then determine the best type and location for hardware. The original connection was bolted through the deck and hull and I'm not really keen on putting a 1/2 hole through the hull. Once on the trailer I think I'll be better able set things right.View attachment IMG_8974.JPGView attachment IMG_8977.JPG
 
Good morning, Bob~


Looks great! What is the Pettit additive you are using?


re Bow Hardware for Sneakboxes. This is always a challenge when the boats are hauled on a trailer. It seems the best location to pull from is down below, a ways back from the bow. I have used a s/s U-bolt (bow eye) on several vessels. Here is the one on my RED~LEG:


View attachment 4 - Bow Eye below.jpg



Obviously, this hardware needs bullet-proof (and water-proof) backing inside the hull.



View attachment 15 primer.JPG




I think it's critical to distribute the load over a large area. When I restore my traditional (cedar planks over frames) Sneakbox this Winter, I plan to make some sort of backer that spreads the load over the 3 central bottom planks - not just the single central plank.


Having said all that about the trailering (and maybe anchoring) hardware, one still needs a way on deck to fasten a dockline and a bow painter. I usually mount a (well-backed) cleat just forward of the spray dodger for the former - and a handle right near the bow for the latter.


All the best,


SJS











 
Hi Steve,

The below is the product description on Jamestown. I was a little nervous about the gloss aspect, but I liked the added durability. My nephew had used some on his Boston Whaler so I could see for myself how it would finish. You do have to measure the amount of additive based on the amount of paint and only add it to the paint you are going to use.

If you are still looking for pictures of VanSant skegs I attached a photo of my first sneakbox (#35) which was a VanSant. At the Tuckerton Seaport there are a number of sneakboxes by various builders under a semi-permanent tent.

Regards,
Bob

Add EZ-Poxy performance enhancer to one-part, solvent-based Pettit topside finishes for higher gloss, durability, longevity, and scratch resistance. This additive increases flow out of brush strokes and roller stipple, providing a mirror-like high gloss finish.
Use with EZ Poxy, EZ Bilge, and EZ Decks for the appearance and performance associated with expensive 2-part linear polyurethane finishes. Unlike 2-part paints, paint and varnish catalyzed with Performance Enhancer can be applied over one-part finishes in good condition. Use one 8 oz. can per gallon of paint or varnish.
View attachment IMG_3168.jpg
 
Thanks, Bob~


It reminds me of the Penetrol I used on my first duckboat. It left the Parker's paint with a bit of a gloss. Penetrol is good stuff - and I continue to use it with any gloss or semi-gloss oil paints. I would be tempted to restrict its - or the Pettit product - use nowadays to the bottom of the hull or interiors.


All the best,


SJS


 
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